ralph_wilson
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Posts posted by ralph_wilson
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<p><i>"It is when you release the shutter without advancing the film"</i></p>
<p>That is correct. It also means you can't do it with a D100. You can combine
images in Photoshop to get the same results.</p>
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Another thought - If you are going to use Nikon View with your D70, the Windows version is more stable than the Mac version.
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A little diligence and common sense can keep your Windows machine safe and reliable. Laptops are not well suited to making photo corrections unless plugged into a CRT monitor. I use mine to download cards on the job site. If I have to transmit images to a client on location I have found Windows to be more compatible on the other end.
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Up front for the processional, then usually the balcony or from the back of the church down the aisle. I take along a 300 2.8 on a tripod parked in the back, (if needed) and an 80-200 2.8 on a monopod. If I'm lucky enough to have a vantage point from the front I'll stay there. I'm fortunate to have a second photographer at a second angle at every wedding.<div></div>
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<p>Hi Phillip</p>
<p>I tried to come up with a B&W using their parameters this way</p>
<ul>
<li>Opened a grayscale image.</li>
<li>Go to Image/Mode/CMYK color</li>
<li>Pick a black spot with the Color Sampler Tool under the eyedropper</li>
<li>Make an adjustment layer for Levels</li>
<li>Change the output in CMY channels to 50%, 40%, 40% respectively (watching
the values for the sampled spot in the info box)</li>
<li>Move the Shadow pointer in the black channel to get 100%</li>
</ul>
<p>Hope that helps. If I didn't explain it in an understandable way just let me
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I have to send news photos from my laptop to meet deadlines quite often. I look at the histogram and check the highlight and shadow values in the info box. I also set the highlight dropper in levels to a 2,1,1,0 value in CMYK. That allows me to remove a color cast.
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<p>I haven't shopped for a scanner for quite some time, but I think you want to
compare</p>
<ul>
<li>resolution</li>
<li>color bit depth and </li>
<li>dynamic range</li>
</ul>
<p>Higher numbers are a good thing .</p>
<p>If you have old slides and negs, a scanner with Digital Ice will save you a
lot of time cleaning up the images. You need to decide between a flatbed with an
adapter or a film scanner.</p>
<p>As far as printers, I've always used Epson Photo Stylus printers with good
results.</p>
<p>That's probably not a lot of help, but may get you started.</p>
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<p>I'm assuming this is really a printing question instead of an exposure
question. Can you offer any more about your workflow? What image editing
software are you using? What printer?? What paper?? What color profile??</p>
<p>How do they look on your monitor? Can you post an example of your properly
exposed image that is giving you trouble?</p>
<p>All this may make it easier to offer suggestions.</p>
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I have not picked up a D70 so I can't speak to that. Out of the two cameras you mentioned, the D100 takes a nicer image. I have a D100 and a D2H. They each excell in diferent areas. I'm not convinced that the D70 is the replacement for the D100 from what I have heard. (All rumors) I would wait a little to see if there is anything else coming out new for 2005.
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Hi Randolph - Go to Abobe's PS help and search for watermark. I did it the other day and if I remember right, Digimarc uses noise to put a copyright on the image. You can adjust the visibility but even at low levels it will be seen by a scanner.
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Epson calls theirs "Premium Lustre" and Ilford has a "Smooth Pearl". Both have an "E" finish and are photo weight papers. I don't think you will find them in a 4x6. I thiink 8.5 x 11 or larger is what you will find.
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I sort of agree with you Robert. It doesn't compare to my D100 however it's a 4MP camera designed for sports that usually ends up on newsprint. If I only had 1 DSLR I'm not sure I would want it to be a D2H. My D100 isn't up to photojournalism or sports. Too slow but the image quality is very good.
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What is your home studio setup?
in Lighting Equipment
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