kevin_peng1

<p>I had issues with fullscreen viewing in ViewNX on one of my computers running XP, and the problems resolved once I updated the .NET framework. I don't think Vista SP1 comes with .NET framework 3.5 SP1 or 1.1 SP1. I'm not sure if this is causing your problem, but it might be worthwhile to give it a shot.</p>

<p>3.5 SP1 can be found <a href="http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=AB99342F-5D1A-413D-8319-81DA479AB0D7&displaylang=en">here</a><br>

1.1 SP1 can be found <a href="http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=A8F5654F-088E-40B2-BBDB-A83353618B38&displaylang=en">here</a></p>

<p>If the bootstrapper isn't working, you might consider downloading the update using the "Full Package" link halfway down the webpage.<br>

If installing 1.1 gives you grief, you might refer to <a href="http://kbase.gfi.com/showarticle.asp?id=KBID003100">this webpage</a></p>

<p>slik 700dx tripod legs aren't light, but they'll be at least as tall as you need them to be...only 99.95 at BH. plus, you can wear the included bag like a backpack :)</p>

<p>if you've only used outfits with cheesy pan-tilt heads on flimsy legs, a $250-300 tripod comprising some cheap legs (like the slik 700dx) and a cheap ball head (manfrotto 486, 488, whatever) will seriously be a world of difference.</p>

<p>We've recently heard members wax about the 105/2.5, 75-150/3.5 e, and others...which are your favorite manual focus lenses? I love MF Nikkors because they can often be had so cheaply! Hopefully with your responses I'll get some ideas about which lens I'll be buying next...</p>

<p>There are many SD to CF adapters available. I can't see why they wouldn't work in the camera. Can anyone confirm that they've tried this successfully?</p>

<p>haha. Hopefully it's the remote as you guys have suggested. When i find my small screwdrivers, I'll fix it!</p>

<p>I was photographing some night shots today with my so-far trusty <a href="../nikon-camera-forum/00IQDx">Jianisi remote release</a> and my newly-obtained AF Nikkor 18-35 f/3.5~4.5 (the only autofocus lens I've ever used on my D200) when, about 50 or 100 shots into the night, I ran into a problem I've never encountered--the remote release stopped triggering the shutter, but the shutter release on the body continued to work fine! I'm sure this has something to do with the fact that, before today, I'd NEVER used autofocus lenses for night shots with a remote release cable on my D200, but that hardly make the problem any less perplexing...</p>

<p>Instead of triggering the shutter, pressing the remote release would cause the camera to autofocus just as a half-press on the shutter release on the body would (AF motor runs, AF focus area frame flashes red inside the viewfinder). However, the shutter refused to release. Once this problem began, it persisted through the rest of the night. Again, while this was happening, I could consistently release the shutter by going back to the camera body and pressing the shutter release on the body fully (but that sorta defeats the purpose of having a remote). This has never happened to me with any of my manual focus lenses.</p>

<p>Since I was using the 18-35 on AF-S, it occurred to me that maybe the autofocus wasn't locking on and the shutter wasn't releasing because the image wasn't in focus. I then tried these things:<br /> - Confirmed that my autofocus settings (custom setting menu -> a1, etc) had AF-S mode priority on release (NOT focus) and AF activation on shutter/AF-L. Didn't help.<br /> - Switched focus to manual, manually focused, and waited for focus confirmation before trying the remote release. Didn't help.<br /> - Obtained autofocus with half-press on camera body shutter before trying the remote release. Didn't help.<br /> - Obtained autofocus with half-press on camera body shutter; locked autofocus by holding down the AE/AF-L button. With the AE/AF-L button depressed, I pressed the remote release. Didn't help.<br /> - Turned the camera off and then on again. The first shot after cycling the power would usually behave normally, with the remote triggering the shutter, but each subsequent shot would have the same problem.</p>

<p>I understand that D300 users seem to run into <a href="../nikon-camera-forum/00QSLX">similar problems</a> , largely fixable with judicious menu selections, but this is slightly different, particularly since it involves a remote release.</p>

<p>Help!!!</p>

<p>Thanks<br /> Kevin</p>

<p>these photos are awesome!<br>

there have recently been at least a couple of threads on the 105 nikkors, but i can't access one thread (the link I get in my search results doesn't work) and the other thread has little discussion comparing the 105 f/2.5 AI-S and the 105 VR and DC. how do y'all think the 2.5 compares with these two lenses?</p>

<p>Epp,<br>

That was funny. :)</p>

<p>As so many have said, KEH's bargain pieces are often functionally near-immaculate, and that's what I normally buy. Still, if ex costs, say, $30 more than bgn on a piece of equipment costing around $500, you might convince yourself to go for the ex condition piece anyway...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Your post bring memory back. Last year I bought a D80 for my son's arrival ...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I am nowhere near knowing what it's like to be a dad, but new dads and cameras always seem to go together--my dad bought an FG-20 right before I was born!</p>

<p>You specifically mentioned used gear. I love Nikon because of the wide variety of generally well-regarded manual focus lenses that can be had for cheap. Take the plunge with any of the suggestions given thus far (particularly with the D200, 300, 300s, or 700, as they'll meter with the manual focus lenses) and I bet you won't regret it!</p>

<p>This is a very informative discussion. thank you! I will try both ViewNX and CaptureNX2.</p>

<p>Thank you for all the responses! Yup, I wanted to know specifically about the two pieces of Nikon software, but I appreciate the input re Lightroom. The information about CaptureNX2 is also very helpful. I am curious about Elliot, Gary, and John's comments:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>If you need convert a group of NEF files, ViewNX is the way to go.</p>

</blockquote>

<blockquote>

<p>Capture NX2 has a batch process for converting NEF to JPG, works great.</p>

</blockquote>

<blockquote>

<p>Capture NX2 has a batch processing mode but that is not the strong suit of the program.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Does this mean that both CaptureNX2 and ViewNX have functions for converting a batch of files? If so, which program has the better batch processing tool?</p>

<p>I realize that NEF conversion seems to be rehashed at least as often as every month, but since a casual search didn't turn up an answer, I wanted to ask the question here: which is better, ViewNX or CaptureNX2, for converting RAW to JPG?<br /> <br /> Thanks</p>

thanks for all the help!

I have an E screen on my Nikon F4 right now. (I think it's called the

E screen...it's the one with a few lines going horizontally and

vertically.) Which screens perform better than the E screen for manual

focusing? How do the Beattie screens compare in terms of brightness

and ease of manual focusing to Nikon's own screens?

Thanks for the answers.

 

I read several of your earlier posts, Chad, but I think I will pass on the home-processing right now.

 

I called the Fuji lab in Arizona and they don't process bulk-loaded film. Any idea why personally bringing in film for processing at A&I in Los Angeles (they charge $9 mounted) costs more than their mailers from B&H ($6.75 + shipping)?

Some older threads in this forum talk about how buying bulk rolls and

reloading your own film isn't cheaper than buying prerolled film as

far as E-6 goes. I want to start shooting more E-6 but I hear Costco

doesn't develop bulk-loaded film. On the other hand, I don't want to

spend money giving the film to a pro lab because my photos aren't

going to be worth the price I pay for developing them. Because of

these things, I don't know if bulk film would be worth it. If you

don't take your bulk-loaded film to a pro lab to get developed, who do

you give it to?

 

Occasionally there are lots of expired color slide film on ebay, but

there's not that big of a supply. If you use expired slide film, where

do you get it from?

 

I guess I'm just asking this: what's a cheaper way to buy and develop

E-6?

Thanks for all the responses...

 

Dave, I have a late 50/1.8 AIS with a plastic barrel. I just reread Bjorn Rorslett's opinions on the page with all the "normal" lenses. Maybe I can start saving up for the 45/2.8 P, but I will keep on using the 50/1.8 if there is not a light in my photo.

 

Scott, I agree with you that good bokeh includes highlights that don't have edges that are brighter than the highlight itself. I guess I'm less picky about the shape of the highlights--a polygonal highlight isn't that ugly to me; instead, I think it's cool. But maybe I'll gradually learn more about photography and begin to notice the aspects you mentioned.

 

Vivek, what is the bokeh filter that you talk about that the Leica Summicron doesn't have? Is it one of the elements or something about the elements or is it the absence of aperture blades when wide open?

 

Albert, the ivy in my pictures looks almost exactly like the trees in the right-hand side background of the picture of you juggling pinecones. I don't like the highlights there...they have very bright edges and are so close together and there's so many of them. Thanks for sharing the test photos.

 

Eric, I am using color print film. Is the doubling effect worse or better on a dslr?

Frank, the LA Chamber Orchestra lady and man visible from the Harbor Freeway is just a mural. I don't think the artist (Kent Twitchell) needed a LF photograph to paint it...maybe he just used a snapshot, or maybe he just knew how he wanted the musicians to look. I mean...it's a mural, right, so it wasn't printed from a negative or anything of the sort...?

 

Amiably yours,

Kevin

I just read some discussions in the archives about the generally bad

bokeh of the 50 mm Nikkors. Among the various lenses, the 50 f/1.4 AF-

D and 50 f/1.8 AF were often cited as having bad bokeh.

 

I just got back some prints that I shot with a 50 f/1.8 AIS, mostly

wide open or stopped down to f/2 or f/2.8. The background, located

about 10 yards away from the subject (which is in focus about 5 feet

away), is light green and harsh--the little circles of light have

bright, well-defined edges and there is a lot of doubling. Since the

little circles look like they could be heptagons instead of circles,

I'm guessing this particular frame was one where I stopped the lens

down to f/2 or f/2.8.

 

Does the 50mm f/1.8 AIS suffer from the bad bokeh problems that some

posters have described about the 50mm f/1.4 AIS and AF-D? If it does,

how should I avoid it when shooting against a background that's not a

nice, well-controlled studio background? The double images are really

annoying; also, more than one of the pictures whose background is the

ivy behind my house is so noisy that it looks like it could be a

pointillist painting.

I thought I read a thread a while back in the pnet forums about

framing and hanging prints. I remember something about a system where

prints were slipped into transparent plastic envelopes which were then

hung. I tried searching in the equipment forum, but I couldn't find

that thread. Does the system I'm referring to sound familiar to

anyone? In any case, what's a cheap and convenient method for framing

and hanging up prints that allows for frequent changing of which

pictures are being hung?

Are the optics in the 35mm f/2 Nikkor-O (AI, non-AI) the same as the

optics in the 35mm f/2 AIS? If they aren't, is there one lens that's

better than the other?

I want to upgrade my F4 to a faster autofocus body, and I'm wondering

if it'll be worth it to keep the F4 instead of trading it in. It seems

like a pity to give it up for just $150 to $200 towards a new body. I

have a couple of AIS lenses that I'm going to keep, but I don't think

I'll miss the matrix metering from the F4 if I do end up trading it

in.

 

What would you do--trade the F4 in or keep it?

It seems like you've gotten a lot of answers for your problem, so the battery probably isn't dead (as you mentioned). For whatever it's worth, though, reading a battery's open-circuit voltage with a voltmeter won't tell you how much juice is left. The next time you're sure that the batteries in some portable electronic device have died, take out the batteries and check their voltages with a multimeter. You'll most likely get the nominal voltage out of the dead batteries (1.5V for AA or whatever).