kyle baker

I will give you my 2cents on this lens.

 

1. It is slower, but it is an L lens, so i find the optical quality more than makes up for this.

Also, this is a lens I use allot indoors and find that when I shoot indoors I mostly use an

external flash, so no problems there. And even at f/4 I find it still produces very nice

background blur.

 

2. This lens has become my new walkaround lens. It is good for most photographic

oportunities that just happen, and I dont mind moving in a bit closer to compensate for

the lack of reach. It doesnt overpower my D60 in weight, in fact it feels just right, but i can

imagine it would be a little heavy on a Drebel, but allot of people still seem to use that

combination.

 

3. Can't tell you much here, the lens hood is very large, but i dont think i would worry

about carrying it around with me, if need be, you can always flip if backwards and attach

it. I have always used it so im not sure about flare without it. The only thing about this

hood i dont like is that it is scary, and it intimidates people. when on a D60 without the

grip, the only thing you can see when looking straight on is the lens and the hood.

 

4. I keep mine mounted on my camera in my lowepro trekker II most of the time, I dont

really use the bag it came with much, only if im packing it up to travel with it. The lens

itself is very durable and i trust it to be ok in my camera bags.

 

All in all I love this lens, but these are just my opinions of it. hope they help. I'm sure

others will be able to reply in a much more coherant and easy to read fashion.

If you had one of those little picturemate printers you could run them off right on the spot. I

dont know how much time you have to print, but it could be an option. I have used them

from time to time and find they have very good quality. and the package concept with the ink

and paper is nice too.

haha i knew someone was going to bring that whole purpose of tripods up, i actualy just got

thinking about it when i was thinking about taking pictures on a moving boat and how you

would do it effectively if there was low light... But thanks for the answers guys. and maybe i

will have to start adopting "lens" instead.. :)

This is more just a question out of pure interest? Does anyone know if they make image

stabalizing tripods or heads? if they do how do they work? if not, would you like one and

what benefits do you think it would have over in camera or in lense systems? just some

thoughts.

 

-Kyle

Another thing you have to keep in mind, is that you cannot compare a mac to a pc as a

3.2Ghz pc vs a 2Ghz mac, they are built on entirely different architectures and thus a

lower cpu speed does not mean a slower machine. its just like intel vs amd, the trick that

macs use, is they have a wider pipeline out of the cpu and thus more information can be

pumped out at once. I remember when i got my 800Mhz G4 powerbook, PC laptops were

running at almost 1.6Ghz or higher, and my mac was the same on most programs and a

little faster. When i switched thoough, the only problem i had was with some of the

navigation around the HD on the mac, it seemed a little foreign to me, like how to access

programs and how they are installed, but once i clicked in that on macs for the most part

its 1 file 1 program, it made everything much easier. Good luck with the switch!

I just bought a new 17-40 F4L and I love it. After reading in the manual a little (all 4 pages of

it :P) I found that you can use Gels in the back of the lense. My questions are will using gels

greatly affect the image quality of this lense, what are good quality gels to use, what kind of

gels do you use if you use them? and finally, i know that when shooting black and white,

using an orange filter gives great effect to the sky, will using an orange gel on a d60 and

then converting to black and white in photoshop have the same effect? well. thats all i can

think of for now. Thanks guys!

-Kyle

I was just curious as to some different kinds of printers and what

their strengths and weeknesses are. I know there is regular, dye,

dye-sub, pigment, i think i have heard of even something like

electrostatic printing, what are the choises a consumer has these

days, what are they about, and what benefits and drawbacks to each of

these. Just wondering what you guys have to say about these different

kinds. Also as a side note, how badly run down can printers get? is

buying a demo model of unknown usage a wise idea? all input is very

appreciated! thanks in advance guys!

-Kyle

you can also see the images if you are using a laptop and you tilt the display way back. Guess this would work on an LCD monitor too. not sure about a crt tho.

Just looking for some tips and to see what some of you guys use when

shooting in the cold. In Toronto we have just experienced some

slightly cooler weather than usual (about -33 or so with windchil) and

was wondering about what are some good things to bring allong on a

trek outdoors. What kind of gloves do you guys use? leather? those

tight cotton guys? mittens maybe? Has anyone found any interesting

ways of perhaps protecting an unsealed camera? I though of

commissioning my mother to make me a fleece jacket for my camera but

maybe there is something better to make it out of. Heck lets just open

this up to any fun photography stuff in the cold that helps and see

what we get! Thanks Guys.

-Kyle

I was just wondering if someone could post a list or a link to a list

of a legend of lenses that work on current generation canon cameras.

From any manufacturer, tamron, sigma, canon. What do the special

markings mean and what are their equivalent types in other

manufacturers. I know Canon L lenses are the high quality pro lenses,

but what are the same level from other manufacturers. And what is DO

on canon lenses? and so on... these are the things I am looking for.

The more info the better! Thank you!

-Kyle

I am not a wedding photographer, but I have been to a bridal show recently and saw a booth that was very interesting. What they had done was gone to one of those electronic rental places and rented 2 plasma tv's. On the one tv they had a slideshow of their work playing facing the crowds walking around. They also had a little corner setup with a simple backdrop and some lights and had someone there taking pictures of interested people with a digital and having the pictures show up on the big plasma. I thought this was a really neet idea since they could then show the prespective customers how they can take pictures and even show them some of the image manipulation and correction they can do with programs like photoshop. People really seemed to like it due to its interactivity. But the staff there looked like they were about to pull their hair out :P

Have you tried opening the file from within photoshop (going to open or open recent and selecting the file that way)? is it that photoshop is giving you an error when you try and open the file? or is it when you try to open the file with explorer it opens in the other program and not photoshop? if it is the latter it is just a matter of changing the jpeg file type to open with photoshop. you can do this by folder options in explorer (under tools on xp)(im assuming you are using a windows os) selecting file types -> finding jpeg -> choosing the open with program to photoshop. or you may be able to right click on the file, choose open with, pick photoshop from the list and click to "always use this program" box.

Im not sure exactly what you are looking for, but it sounds like a good Speelight and the Off Shoe Cord 2 should do the trick. With the good speedlights, you can highspeed sync up the the highest speed that your camera can go, you loose power = no range, but you dont need much range for macro work. I think a 420ex, 550ex or the newer versions of those flashes and a off shoe cord 2 should do you just fine, they are all completely compatable with the 20D, you will be able to get up to 1/4000, or is it 1/8000 on the 20D... whatever you highest shutter speed is, you can do it easy.

I have noticed that I am getting almost a black streak on my pictures when i

use smaller apperatures. it does not go away when i change lenses, but it is

not as vissible with a more open, larger apperature setting. could shrinking

the size of the apperature focus on dust that may be on the sensor? and if so

what is the best way to fix this? I will try and post pictures of this to show it. the

pictures are just of a blank wall with a tac hole to focus on, the black line is the

problem.<div></div>

I know, the title is a little vague, i apologize in advance. I was just wondering,

with the 1.6x multiplier on digital slr's, is this going to affect the effect of

compression that appears in pictures? I ask this because I know some people

prefer a telephoto for portraits because of the effect of compression of the

subject it has. I think a popular lense is the 85mm for this. If you use a 50mm

lense on a dslr with the 1.6 multiplier (making it in essence a 80mm) will the

lense have the same effect of compression as a real 80mm lense on a full

frame camera? I guess my question is, is the effect of compression in a picture

a factor built into the lense or is it a direct corrolation with the focal or rather

effective focal length of the lense? Sorry my questions are always so long

and drawn out, but i just cant help it :P thanks. -Kyle

Just a question out of sheer curiosity. Can DSLR's shoot an equivilant of a

double exposure? or is it just expected that you do any such things post

shooting with photoshop or other programs? I have never so much as even

held a DSLR, but was thinking if they could, it could be good practice for film.

From what I have read, the EOS 3 has a viewfinder that Covers 97% of the frame (dont quote me, but i think this is the case). So that means you will end up with an extra 3% on boarder. I cannot think mathimaticaly enough to do any calculations to this extent. You may just have to take some test frames against a static object and mark down how far you are zoomed until it fills the amount that you would like. then either remember about how far you zoomed in, or mark it on the lense somehow and then when you are taking your real photos, just zoom in that little bit extra to get the effect you want. But i think it will come down to just trial and error. Maybe someone else has a better way tho.

Since the snow is bound to come crashing down on us up here in

Canada any time now, I thought I would ask this because I never

really thought of it until now. Are there any filters or filter

combinations that will help shooting on bright days with lots of

snow around? I am worried about the glare off the snow doing things

to my pictures. Also should I be using a specific film speed for

bright snow-filled days? This will be my first time really shooting

in snow, i will be using B+W and colour slide film. Any sudgestions

would be very helpful.

Thank you.

-Kyle

This one looked similar but allot beefier, almost like it was CNC machined. Its

something im looking at for my old Pentax, just so i can climb with and and lug

it around when im doing activities that i dont want a huge backpack (I use a

Velocity 7 for my main camera but like to have a second camera with different

film on me). Im going to put a screenshot from the movie in my profile since i

cannot figure out how to add one to the post.

Im not sure exactly how far from UofT it is, after all, thats a pretty spread out

school, but Toronto Image Works looks like a good place that seems to

specialize in development (rather than a camera store that also develops)

and they appear to have very reasonable prices as well. I cannot comment

about their work since i have not gone there yet, but I am going to take some

film there to be developed soon, they are at 80 Spadina (right near king and

spadina), their web page is www.torontoimageworks.com have a look.

Sorry about the confusing title for this post, I cannot figure out what to call

these things. But I am interested in learning if this is a prop, or something you

can really buy: In the movie Vertical Limit, at the very beginning, one of the

characters is climbing a mountain and taking pictures, he then puts his

camera onto a belt clip, its not the best angle, but it looks like a kind of cell

phone type belt clip, where the little round part slides into a channel and

locks, accept it appears to be made of some sort of metal and instead of the

round part being sticky taped or glued on, it looks like it screws into the tripod

mounting threads. Does anyone know if these really exist, or if they are a prop

just for this film. Also if they do exist, where would you be able to buy one?

Thanks.

Awsome, thanks guys, I guess I will keep doing that then.

I have heard that there are cameras that all you do is hit a button, the film

position and info is recorded (on the film or in the camera i dont know), the

feel is rewound with the leader out, and when you want to put it back, all you

do is put it in and it returns to where you left off. Wondering if this is possible

with the Elan 7NE or if it is possible to somehow have this feature programed

in.

I have an Elan 7NE and was wondering if it is possible to do a midroll film

change with it. I know you can set the leader to stay out, and that the camera

uses an infrared counting beam, i have read that those seem to be the needs

to do midroll changes, but i have not seen in any documentation or reviews

about the 7NE that it has this capability. If it doesnt, does anyone know of any

place where the camera can be sent and programed this way? like how the

A2E can have the light meter scale programed back into it?

I know about the method of rewinding the film, marking the frame u left on and

then when u put it back in, covering the eyepiece and lense and taking

pictures back to that spot... i do that if i have to, but to me i think i am just

wasting the lifetime of my camera. Any answers about this would be great.

Thanks

-Kyle

I have the Elan 7NE (33V i think is the other name) and got the battery pack

for it. It is the BP-300, and it works great. I have big hands and find i can reach

both the command dial, and the wheel in the back no matter how i am holding

the camera. Like previous posters have mentioned, it has an AE lock button,

Shutter button and a usefull on/off switch so you dont accidentaly fire off

frames, but no command dial. But what I find is the ability to use AA batteries

is the number one thing about this pack, The second is the balance it gives to

the camera, it makes it feel much more complete and solid, as well makes it

easier to manage with big hands.