stu dall

Leonard...you've just made me realise that it actually was the shutter speed that I changed, and not the aperture. From what you're saying though, I should still be ok. Stu.

Thank you all for putting my mind at rest. Stu.

I received my recent lens purchase from ebay today (Schneider APO Symmar

150mm), and was giving it the once over to check that all was well. I turned

the aperture dial a few stops, and then realised that the shutter was 'cocked'.

What a plonker!

I subsequently fired the shutter at all speeds, and everything appears to be

working as it should. Have I damaged the shutter, or have I got away with it?

www.scanscience.com

 

All the info is on the site. You can wet scan 35mm up to 8x10 (I think). Stu.

Tried this one a short while ago, and someone here was testing the above, but

doesn't appear to want to share their findings, or respond to e-mails, so i'm

asking others.

Has anyone got hold of this kit, and if so, what do they think of it as

regards to scan quality, in comparison to the Epson Fluid Mount Accessory.

Any feedback here would be very much appreciated.

Stu.

I would really appreciate your feedback Ellis, once you've had a chance to run some tests with the new holder Ellis. I have Doug's new V750 Holder for my 6x7 transparencies, which I am very happy with, but I'm just starting into 4x5, and I think the fluid mount will really bring out the best of those trannies, and cut out any issues on keeping the film flat.

I have the Epson V750, and was recently surprised to read in Amateur

Photographer magazine last week, that owners of the above can contact Epson

with the serial number of their scanner, and Epson will send the Fluid

Mounting Accessory free of charge. Apparently V700 owners will have to pay for

theirs. I duly contacted Epson UK, and mine is on it's way...which is nice!.

I subsequently read that the design leaves a little to be desired, and the

extra detail, less grain, and increased contrast usually gained in 'wet

scanning' is somewhat negated due to the sensor having to scan through an

extra 2mm of glass, causing extra defraction.

I have noticed that manufacturers of the ScanScience Pro Kit claim their

product to be superior, mainly due to the fact that the sensor has to scan

through only 1mm of glass, and the unit's height can be adjusted, whereas the

Epson cannot. Has anyone here used the ScanScience product on the V750?.

Damien Demolder, who tested the Epson Fluid Mounting Accessory, was impressed

with it, but if the ScanScience product is substancially better, I might be

prepared to part with my money.

Jeff...thanks for your input. I've had another look, and it all seems ok now, with everything lining up. The problem with this older Shen Hao, is that all movements apart from the front 'rise/fall' have centering marks, but it would appear that this particular one has to be done by eye. Thanks again. Stu.

I'll have to. I actually can get it to sit straight, but the centre of the film area doesn't line up with the centre of the lens, which clearly it has to be...doesn't it?

I suppose i'm asking for the obvious to be confirmed here, but I thought i'd

just double check. I have the above Shen Hao model, which I believe is a copy

of the Ebony SW45. I bought it used, with a Horseman 6x9 roll film holder

only, but want to shoot 4x5, which was my main reason for buying the camera.

I've just received a Fuji Quickload Holder, and it clicks into position nicely

underneath the sprung camera back containing the GG. The problem is that it

sits at a slight angle to the back of the lens, and logic tells me that it

clearly needs to be in perfect parallel with it in order to obtain a sharp

transparency corner to corner. Have I answered my own question here?. Stu.

All I know Julio, is that I scan a transparency for an end result (a print). Now if I get an extremely satisfactory print from my Epson, that makes me pleased that I have spent ﾣ509.00 as opposed to ﾣ2,500 on a dedicated film scanner in order to get to that end result. As to whether my initial scan requires more sharpening than one on the dedicated scanner, makes no odds to me as long as the prints do not show the effects of this. And they don't.

What is the point of showing comparisons of unsharpened scans only, when some scanners require a greater amount of sharpening than others?. Surely the end result is by far the most important. I actually have the V750, and yes, the unsharpened scans are soft, and do require a fairly substantial amount of sharpening, but the print quality that I can achieve from scanning my 6x7 transparencies is of a very high quality (and no, they don't have that horrible digital look), and I'm extremely pleased to have paid 20% of the price of a dedicated film scanner.

Thank you both for your speedy replies. Brian... I think you've put my mind at rest somewhat, though I don't think I have a lot of room to spare with the image circle on the lens that I got with the camera (90mm Schneider Super Angulon) with a 216mm image circle).

It looks like this camera will ease me into LF, and an upgrade may be on the cards at a later stage. Stu.

Recently bought the above camera used. I am totally new to LF, so bought a

couple of books, after receiving great advice here. On reading up on the

movements of LF cameras, it would appear i've made a bum purchase, as it seems

that 'back tilt' is by far the most commonly used movement. Yep you guessed

correctly...no back tilt on this model!

This is obviously one of the 1st Shen Hao models, albeit in 'as new' condition.

So...can anybody shed some light on this model, and confirm my worst fears,

that firstly there definitely is no back tilt on this one, and or, can it be

easily modified to incorporate this.

 

Also...the camera has all other movements, including front tilt/rise and

fall/swing, and back rise and fall and swing; so can I scrape by without back

tilt or not.

One of the main reasons for me moving to LF, was the whole front to back

sharpness issue, where MF sometimes falls short in the less conventional

situations.

Stu.

I'm looking to buy a 150mm Lens for my Shen Hao, and am unsure as to whether

an image circle of 210mm would be adequate, should I wish to use 'reasonable'

tilt/shift movements. I would be using the lens almost exclusively for

landscape work only.

The lens in question is a Schneider Symmar s f/5.6 Multicoated.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Stu.

Actually, i've noticed that the GG is an Ebony, and there is also a thin screen over the top of it (which I presume must be a 'fresnel screen'), which is not named. Not having any experience at all here, do I just rely on my own judgement as to whether the view through screen is bright or otherwise, and upgrade one, or both of the above?

Hi Mike...I have a Lunasix F. The Gossen meters are excellent, and there are a few models. Tey were all pretty expensive to buy new, but sell for reasonable prices used. Probably your best bet is to look on ebay for the model that you have, and see what they go for. I've just had a quick look, and there's a dozen or so listed at present. Obviously, somewhere around that price would be a fair price to pay. Stu.

I did say "fairly accurate"!. If one is 1/2 stop or so out, the 2nd can be exposed pretty much spot on. Is this Schneider f/8 going to be really difficult for accurate focusing in low light?

Thanks once again everybody. Brian...I've become fairly accurate with my spotmeter, but I would always take 2 shots of identical exposure, and have the lab expose the 1st one, and adjust the 2nd one if need be. Friedmann...I forgot to say that the camera came with a Scheider Super Angulon 90mm Multi-coated f/8 lens.

After reading in the forums here, it does appear that I may have some fun focusing accuratly in low light conditions!

Thanks again. Stu.

Thanks John. So just to confirm....I need the quickload film holder, and the quickload film, and i'm there.

Ok, so I've got a Shen Hao, with a removable back (obviously), which contains

the ground glass screen. I also have a Horseman 6x9 back, and nothing else.

I want to start shooting 5x4, and have decided on 'quickload' film. I have

been told that I need Double Darkslides, a Polaroid Back, and a Quickload

Back!. Do I really need all this?. Stu.

Thank you all for your kind responses.

 

Stu.

I have just purchased the above, used. It came with a Shneider Super Angulon

90mm f/8 Lens (Multi-Coated), and a Horseman 6x9 Back. I am completely new to

LF, and would like some advice on what else I need to buy, in order to operate

the camera to obtain transparencies of 5x4.

Also, any tips on which book/books to buy, or websites, giving instructions on

the use of LF cameras, specifically shift and tilt for DOF.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Stu

Hi, not sure whether they have them in stock, but their website doesn't say that they're out of stock. www.warehouseexpress.com

Good luck. Stu.

Daniel...A little knowledge is a dangerous thing!