will_legge

Why is 35mm so cheap?

 

Part of it has to do with supply and demand. The tolerances in medium format are tighter - harder to make an optical sytem cover larger film and a film transport system to deal with it. There does seem to be a large number of badly made 35mm lenses and cameras BTW.

 

Manufacturers also are dealing with a more sophisticated customer who does not need all the silly bells and whistles on their cameras. We are more interested in image quality than if the camera can make brackets by itself. We also know how to make exposures and focus.

 

It is simply a matter of priorities. I am willing to spend more to get a well made camera that can take great pictures and last a long time. Much of the 35mm gear is aimed at amateurs and so many corners at cut to make the equipment cheap enough for the average person to buy it.Many 35mm SLRs have plastic bayonet mounts, plastic film transport systems, mirror "prisms", plastic lens construction and plastic optics. While plastic can be a good material, I doubt that is the reason the camera is made almost entirely from the stuff.

Konica doesn't know the development time either - they have two different recommendations. But you are thinking about IR film the wrong way. You really need to test exposure and development combinations to get good results. The film does not quite react to under and overexposure as normal films - it losses too much density with even a stop less exposure and it blocks up quikly when given too much. Over development can make extremely contrasty negatives. Since push processing is underexposure and overdevelopment, you will need to do a lot of testing. I would say push processing is NOT going to give good results.

 

The reason for testing is that it is hard to determine the levels of IR radiation. It varies greatly with weather, time of day, and time of year. The conditions in Japan can be very different from your conditions. A light meter is only a guide. It cannot measure IR directly. I would shot and develop your rolls one by one since you have such a limited supply to see what happens. You will understand the problems better and may be able to get some nice results by the time you hit the third roll (maybe by the second too).

 

BTW, I have never been able to use my camera without a tripod when shooting IR film because of the slow speed and the required filtration. If you shot without filters, you might as well use normal film.

Neither, it does not sound you have a use for them. Save your money

until you actually need something.

I hate to say this, but this thread is speculation at best. If you

want to say anything, better post some MTF data. This Japanese/German

line is a little silly as Minolta manufactured cameras and lenses for

Leitz.

 

But why is everyone so insecure? Why do you need to put your

equipment above other equipment? Are you afraid of being humiliated

because you somehow wasted money because there may be a sharper lens

and it cost less?? Strange reasoning.

 

I don't know about anyone else, I bought the cameras I have because I

wanted them. The reason I chose them is that I thought they were cool

and they would make interesting pictures. Some of my best images were

taken with Japanese equipment, and some by German. No obivous bias in

favor of either group.

 

As far as the photographers mentioned as some kind of proof for

something or other. Most of them were working when there were fewer

choices for quality optics. So yes, some had German optics and some

didn't. Some had camera from more than one manufacturer. Since the

list is not complete, it is hard to say which was the more popular.

Of course I could make a list to show german optics were not widely

used, but it does not prove anything. It is simply selctive editing

to bias the "facts" to fit the "theory."

 

This seems an issue for camera collectors rather than photographers.

"Asahi Camera and Nippon Camera both have excellent photo

reproductions."

 

Their reproduction are ordinary, nothing great and nothing bad. I

certainly woulf not use them to make judgements on photographic

optics.

Never heard of one. There are panoramic photography web site, but not

specifically 6x17. You could post this in the medium-format forum as

6x17 cameras are medium-format cameras.

"the grocery store is more interesting to me than the museum. "

 

Actually, it is easy to see both as Japanese department stores can

contain a grocery store and a museum. If you can define what you

think the "typical" bus herds are, that would help. Foreigners don't

travel in "herds" here, but the Japanese do which would make it

everyday.

 

But Japan is expensive. Hotels charge by the person, not the room.

Plan around $100/day/person as a minumum.

 

As far as day trips around Tokyo, there are a few places:

 

Kamakura - Historical town

 

Enoshima - coastal town near Kamakura

 

Okutama / Mitake - Mountains and mountain villages.

 

Yokohama

 

If you want to keep to Tokyo and surrounding area, and there is

certainly a lot to see, I would look for a weekly mansion as being

your cheapest lodging. Basically it is a one room apartment you can

rent for a short time. They usually have a small kitchenette so you

can cook as well as a laundry machine in the building. I'm sorry if I

cannot be specific as I lived in Tokyo and so did not need to rent

one and I moved to the Osaka area about five years ago.

You should be able to make a better print using a traditional darkroom than with a printing process. A printing process should not add anything that is not there. It should reproduce the work, not change it. But the dynamic range and resolution is greater in a photographic print.

If your film has no edge markings, you "developed" in fixer. Save your leaders when you spool your film. They can be used to identify chemistry. If you put it in developer, it will turn black on one side, but it will not clear. If the film turns clear in about a minute, that is fix. If nothing happens, you have stop bath or water. Hopefully the stop bath is smellier.

 

The other possiblity is you contaminated your developer with stop bath. An exhausted developer will do something. Developer plus stop does nothing.

One other idea - if you have a pro lab around, ask them to push

process it a stop to increase the contrast. I would imagine the film

has faded and the extra development MAY help. That is if you are not

worried about a possible color shift. : ) But other than that, just

take it to the local one-hour place.

It is a merger. The G500 is from the Konica lineage but with a better

manual. Whether it is a KD-510Z, I don't know because I have not seen

one of those cameras. I would compare the specs.

I recently bought a Fotoman 6x12 90mm - 180mm viewfinder to use with

a Horseman SW612. This review may be of help for others looking for

an accessory viewfinder for a 6x12 or 6x17 camera. The Fotoman

viewfinders come in a series of three focal-length ranges and vary

between format:

 

6x12: 47mm - 90mm, 90mm - 180mm, 180mm - 400mm

 

6x17: 72mm - 90mm, 90mm - 180mm, 180mm - 400mm

 

The viewfinder uses a mask to adjust the angle of view. Simply turn

the front of the viewfinder to match the index with the appropriate

focal length. This viewfinder is marked for 90mm, 110mm, 135mm,

150mm, and 180mm lenses. There is an obvious click stop at each

position. The index on my unit does not quite reach the 90mm

position, but the click stop is there and the mask size seems

correct.

 

The view is bright and clear. The mask area is getting a little too

tight to use at the long end of the focal-length range and so could

be an issue. The mask uses straight edges and does not correct for

the distortion caused by the viewfinder optics. Practically speaking,

I do not think this will be a big problem at this focal length range.

 

The optics are good. Not much flairing and a few internal reflections

when looking toward the sun, but it does not wash out the view and

prevent the viewfinder from being used. I have not noticed any flair

or reflections in any other situations. The image can be a little

soft toward the edge at the 90mm position. These are Chinese optics

and very good, but don't expect it to be the same level as a Horseman

finder - nor the same cost. For clean freaks, the bits of dust in the

finder could be annoying. You don't see it when using the viewfinder,

only when examining the optics from the front.

 

Like all viewfinders, it is not 100% accurate and the mask frame

shifts as the position of your eye changes. I like viewfinder/

rangefinder cameras and the framing and parallax issues are easy to

become use to. Although I have not used this viewfinder much, I don't

see any problems in learning how it sees.

 

The construction is very solid. The body is a single part machined

from metal which includes the eye cup. It uses an accessory foot for

mounting. The foot is a little too long to fit in a closed accessory/

flash shoe, but will fit in an open shoe that uses a screw stop. The

Horseman has a closed shoe and so the foot would need to be trimmed

for the safety catch to hold the viewfinder. It looks easy to trim

with the right tools, but I'm sure the modification will invalidate

the warranty.

 

The viewfinder is a little larger than the Horseman. It has a

diameter of about 6.5cm and a length of 5cm. It stands 7cm above the

camera. It weighs about 200g. It arrived packed in a plastic bag with

no paperwork. However, the dealer, Badger Graphic, did pack the unit

properly for safe transport. US retail price is $195.

 

All in all, I am happy with the Fotoman viewfinder. I think anyone

looking for a viewfinder for a panoramic camera or camera project,

Fotoman viewfinders may be a good option.

 

BTW, I am not affiliated with Fotoman or Badger Graphics in any

capacity.

Let me see if I understand you. Up to now you have had no problem with the lens. The results you believe are excellent. The only problem you have is there is no "D" printed on the lens barrel? You cannot trust your eyes that the results from the lens are good?

 

 

I believe the "D" designation is for distance encoders, not for optical properties. If you are not having problems with your flash exposures, keep the lens. Flash exposures are not difficult. They had been made well long before distance encoders were added to cameras.

 

BTW, distance encoders are not put into medium or large format cameras. So how important is it?

If I were traveling without a tripod, I would go with the 105mm or 135mm. If I had a tripod, I would concider the 180mm. But what focal length do you usually use with the 70-300? Do you stick to the long or short end. I would go out with your usual subjects and use the zoom to see which would be the most versatile focal length for the work you do.

You can make a finder out of wire.

What aspect ratio are you looking for? 6x6, 6x4.5/6x7, 6x8, 6x9???? That will narrow your selection.

I tape the edge of the lens cap with brightly colored electrical tape

which makes the cap very apparent through the viewfinder. Or always

use lens hoods with cannot take a cap.

This method is to calibrate one meter in reference to another. Which meter is "right." The others are compensated to the reference meter.

Except "visually interesting place," Rochester Institute of Technology covers your bases. I'm not sure of foreign student aid packages as I was not a foreign student.

 

I believe New York City and Boston would have the colleges to allow you both to do what you want and be together.

 

Unless your friend has an outstanding portfolio, getting into a Masters program is going to be very hard. She may think of applying for an udergraduate as a transfer student. She would most likely not have to take the required courses outside her field of study. She may also get credit for her portfolio, but the better schools usually don't allow that.

 

In the US an Associate's degree is a two-year undergraduate degree, a Bachelor's degree is a four-year undergradute, a Master's degree is a two-year graduate. There are no PhDs in studio art.

My only experience with Adorama convinced me they did not want me as a customer. Their sales person was very rude and uncooperative. I have used B&H for 20 years and find them better to deal with.

You have framing "dots" in your viewfinder. Look carefully. It is awkward at first, but gets easier with practice. The wider the lens, the better. The 150mm frame indexes are marked just on the sides of the 6x7 frame I believe.

Ross, did you get that lens yet?

I would get two smaller bags - one for the camera and one for the lenses. That way you can take them out of the backpack while you are shooting and they offer protection when stored in the pack. Taking the backpack on and off to get something can be a pain.

 

Most photo-backpacks are not well designed to carry anything other than photo gear - there is little space for other essentials. Also harnesses are much better on "real" backpacks. I don't know if I would recommend l.l. bean. Their designs are old fashioned. I would go to a hiking store and look for one by Mountainsmith, Zero Point, North Face, or other companies that make equipment for mountaineering.

 

The other advantage of using separte bag is you can throw them into a large plastic bag in the backpack in storms. It will also protect your stuff if you water bottle leaks.

ILKKA, I am sorry for misunderstanding the tone of your post. Also, there are obviously customs in China that are different from Japan, England, and USA. We are so used to a fixed retail price that we would not think of contacting the manufacturer to bargan for a price.

Sorry ILKKA, I did not mean to imply that you did not buy new. It was more a general statement.

 

As far as Fotoman's factory, I would be very surprised if they had one. They are most likely using machine shops and optics manufacturers to make the equipment for them. Nor do most camera manufacturers give discounts for picking the product up at their office or plant.

 

I'm not suggesting you need to buy their cameras, but I think your expectation of a discount because you visit them is unrealistic. Especially since "distribution" is most likely a very small part of pricing - $20/unit or so. I think critisizing them because they charge you the same as all their other customers is strange.