sdifaz

<p>Morgan,<br>

If you want to use series VII filters then the hood that you need is indeed the <strong>12504</strong> type which is dedicated to the 35mm summircon & summilux of your len's era. The 12585 hood will fit but unless I am seriously mistaken, does not split to accept a filter! Hope this helps!<br>

Regards, Simon</p>

The EXACT same thing has happened on my D3 but not as often as you mention with your camera. I usually eject

the cards and re-seat them and it works fine. Its annoying though as the camera is four months old and hasn't seen

any hard work. Last time it happened was this past Tuesday and I thought to myself once I had re-seated the cards

that its time to send the camera to Nikon U.K. as this is not what I expect from a D3 be it hardly used like mine or a

work horse camera... It will be going back in the next few weeks....

 

Regards,

 

Simon

George,

 

Thanks for your comment. When I lift and turn I can change ASA no problem. When I release and re-seat the dial that is when I have free play! I can literally turn the dial with the merest brush of my little finger, there are no solid click stops as you describe. I think that the body will be returned to the shop as something is not right and I'll take it from there.

 

Thanks fellas for all your input!

 

What a super little camera though...!

 

Regards,

 

Simon

Thanks for the advice everyone... My camera definately has no click stops for exposure compensation. It just turns. You can push it with your little finger! I hate to keep on but should it have click stops or something to stop the compensation dial turning where it likes and effecting exposure??

 

Again, Thanks!

 

Regards

 

Simon

Hello All!

 

I have a problem with a recently purchased OM3-Ti and i need to ask advice...

 

I find that the exposure compensation dial turns freely without me having to lift it and then turn as I would expect.

Thus you are never sure if the exposure is correct unless you first check the dial.

 

Is this normal or should it be a lift and turn operation?

 

I am relatively new to olympus OM cameras but if I find it surprising that the dial was designed to just turn freely?!

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Regards

 

Simon

Diego,

 

Wow what a proceedure! Once I found a very good light source your instructions were perfect! It was a little tricky re-fitting the top but after a few practise attempts it slotted straight back together with everything lining up as it should. The screw would be tough to find without first knowing the path to it hence removal of the top is quite necessary. The rangefinder is now spot on and I am using the camera!

 

Thank You for your advice!

 

Regards

 

Simon

Hi everyone,

 

I have aquired a Contax T and whilst everything seems to work just fine the

rangefinder is out of vertical alignment. Does anybody have any advice for

adjustment? Is it something that can be attempted at home or should it be sent

away. Any ideas where in the U.K. I could send it?

 

Thanks in advance!

Anti War March London 2004<div></div>

London 2004 - Protestors<div></div>

London 2004<div></div>

As always thanks for the input guys, from the explainations given I now get the idea, or the chemistry... I am interested in Franks point though about using Microdol-X and/or Perceptol with Delta 100. I am looking for fine grain & sharpness from this film so can anyone recommend a tried & tested developer that would be suitable?!

 

Regards, Simon

Hi All,

 

I have been trying out different developers lately, after years of using

Ilfosol S & Delta 100 I thought I'd try something new. I have read various

developer specs from Ilford & Kodak. On the Ilford website under the Perceptol

spec they make the following statement :

 

" Designed for use when very fine grain negatives are required but a decrease

in film speed is not important "

 

I understand the fine grain bit no problem! But, my question is this: What

causes this decrease in film speed? When does it take place? Should I rate my

Delta 100 at 50ASA when I know I am going to use Perceptol? I've seen this

statement when looking at other manufacturers specs too & I'm trying to

understand what the meaning is & how it should affect my exposure &

development? Perhaps I'm missing something obvious but if anyone can clarify

then I would appreciate the info! Regards Simon

Harvest Moon<div></div>

M6 & Summicron 35 ASPH<div></div>

Alan,

 

Your experience is so typical of The Classic Camera in London. I have browsed on occasions but I would NEVER buy from them. The chap with the beard is sort of ok but their attitude is still very off-hand, rude and downright un-helpfull in my opinion. For leica in London try Richard Caplan, they are very knowledgeable, extremely helpfull and best of all friendly...!

 

Regards

 

Simon

James,

 

Congratulations on your return to film! I can only agree with your comments on the F6, a stunningly good camera that most DSLR users will never experience, I am overjoyed with mine too!

 

Regarding Infra Red film, last year I shot two rolls of Kodak HIE with my F5 as was then. Before doing so I called Nikon U.K. & was told that IR Film was fine in both F5 AND F6 as neither use an IR film counter. They did suggest that I use centre weighted metering though due to the red filter. I also covered the film ID window with foil & electrical tape. The results were fine. If in doubt though I would suggest a call to Nikon, they were very helpfull. I have two rolls of HIE waiting to be shot in my F6 & I think I will do the same as I did last year with the F5... Enjoy the F6 & enjoy Film !

 

Regards

 

Simon

I definitely agree with Paul above, The Classic Camera in London has a very snooty / nose in the air attitude. I have browsed on many occasion but I would always purchase elsewhere in a more friendly environment... Regards Simon

Family transport...<div></div>

Hello all.

 

First of all I apologise if this question has been asked already. I have just

started shooting with a Ricoh GR-Digital & am keen to use it in RAW mode but I

then cannot open the DNG file that it produces, only a lower quality JPEG. I

use Windows XP & am still working with photoshop 6.0 as I've always found this

software simple so haven't upgraded as yet. My question is, can I download any

software that will allow me to open the DNG files with photoshop 6.0 OR do I

need to be thinking of upgrading to CS2 which I think I'm correct in saying,

allows you to open DNG files and convert/work on them accordingly? Unless I've

missed something the Ricoh software supplied with the camera doesn't seem to

offer me a sollution either. Any advice or other sollutions that I haven't

thought of would be most helpfull...!

 

Regards, Simon.

Subject: wnw: Film B/W<div></div>

A no brainer...! I'll take the trip and carry my MP & M4...!

Nice idea Alun, I like it...! I've shot something along the same lines recently but haven't developed the film yet... Nice shots though... Simon

Michael, would be cool to see some of the shots when you have a minute... cheers Simon.

Oh so thats why the first shot didn't appear! Thanks for the advice John, I'll bare it mind for future posts... Simon

Guess the sizing thing almost worked...! I'll keep trying...!