john_hughes2
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Posts posted by john_hughes2
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<p>Thank you for responding! I plan to start developing some old rolls today (everything is old around here, including me). When last I developed film, I was using a two bath process for fixing. I will start there and see what results are achieved.<br>
Thanks again.<br>
John</p>
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<p>I have an old bottle (years and years) of TF4 concentrate. Rather than toss it, I mixed up half to working strength. The solution remained cloudy for about an hour but eventually did clear. I've done a film strip test and it cleared the strip in under 30 seconds. It should be safe to use, right?<br>
Thanks, John</p>
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<p>I use the D5500 and enjoy it very much! It doesn't have all the "bells and whistles" offered by other models, but its more than enough camera for my hobbyist needs.<br>
I have been thinking about purchasing a full frame, digital Nikon and to that thought; are there any whispers about an updated Df body?</p>
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<p>Thanks to everyone for the good advice and for sharing your photos and experiences.<br>
I apologize for taking this long (a month) to acknowledge your help and I greatly appreciate that you would take the time to respond.<br>
I've just ordered a new Nikon 200-500mm/f5.6 E AF-S VR lens! I should have it in hand next week.<br>
I had some difficulty deciding between this lens and the Tamron 150-600mm/f5-6.3. I'm sure both are good performers (in the proper hands). <br>
I live about an hours drive from Minneopa State Park (Minnesota) where the Minnesota State Zoo and MN. Dept. of Natural Resources are managing a small Bison herd. Most of the animals are "transplanted" there from Blue Mound State Park near Luverne, MN.<br>
Kent, You and I are practically neighbors considering the far flung group of contributors to P.NET!<br>
Again, many thanks to all! I hope I'll be able to share some good pics soon.</p>
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<p>I'm trying to decide on a lens for long telephoto (wildlife, primarily Bison) for my Nikon D5500. <br>
The newer Nikon 80-400 mm AF-S is what I am currently considering (but the price is more than I wanted to spend) so cheaper alternatives are what I'm after here.<br>
Thanks for your help,<br>
John</p>
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Thanks everyone for all the good advice! I'm sorry it's taken me so long to get back to this thread!
I've ordered a softbox from white lightning and still need to get some optical triggers for the smaller flash units. Then I just need to set-up and start testing with the DSLR as suggested. I really like the easy and practical suggestions for keeping flash to subject and film to subject distances constant while still making adjustments. Likewise, I'm glad to hear I can use the lens unconverted. I've located an old KODAK professional photoguide and can hopefully use it to figure out the exposure comp. needed due bellows extension.
Many thanks again, for your help and encouraging words.
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I would like to take graduation portraits of my daughter (no worries, she will have them done professionally as well). I
have an Ansco 8x10 with Schneider symmar (Sinar) convertible lens (300, f5.6 and 500, f12). A small living room
space (21x12x8 ft), with white walls and ceiling, will serve as the studio. I have two Ultra 600 flash units for main
lighting and two smaller strobes for background and hair highlighting. I have other medium and 35mm format
cameras, but I think I want the larger negative for contact printing (conventional silver and alt. process). As my
lighting system is on the low end for output and I will likely use the lens converted; I am thinking of using the new
Kodak, TMY 400 film in 8x10 or 5x7 format.
I am so much the beginner, at practically every level of this endeavor, that any amount of advice, criticism, and
caveats is most welcome. Many thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!
John Hughes
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Well, results are better. I can still see evidence of fogging/streaking on the innermost (2) frames. I used 410ml and attached a clip to hold the reel in place (I could tell on inversions both with and without solution added that the reel was stationary). The clip was metal and reacted with solutions but the negs still look good (I'll try to find something made of plastic to do the job). Next roll will get slightly more (420 ml) volume. If that doesn't work, I'm gonna try my luck with Paterson, plastic tanks.
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Thanks for the quick responses. Ronald, I measured the volume at just over 390 ml to cover an empty 120 reel. I'm not sure how much solution gets soaked into the emulsion but since the film will displace some volume, this might be a near zero sum trade-off? If, as Lex said, some fluid remains trapped in the lid; this would account for streaking only at the topside of the roll. But, one might expect to see it all along the roll and not only on innermost frames.
I'm going to "soup" another roll tonight. I will up the volume to 410 ml. I usually agitate by giving a twist to the tank while inverting it. With the SS tank the reel is not fixed in place and will move with the surging fluid. I wonder if I should also try to keep the reel fix in place by attaching a half opened paper-clip (or some such item) to the top of the reel? I'll report back with my results.
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I've been trying divided developers lately (a formula from Barry Thornton and also Diafine) and I have been getting
some streaking or uneven development of the innermost frames on the reel (just at the top of the tank, in 400 ml of
solution). I'm using 120 B+W films(TriX and Ilford),Hewes reels, and a Kinderman, SS tank. Now, I know this looks
like improper agitation, but it only starts happening after a few rolls have been developed. The first couple rolls come
out just fine! So, I wonder if solution B can become exhausted or if "contamination" from previous rolls might lead to
this effect? If not, any suggestions on proper agitation?
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Hello Jimmy B
I have read on this forum that using sepia sulfide toner will achieve greater effective intensification of negatives than is achieved using selenium, Mercury, etc... I have not tried this myself, but a search will yield some interesting posts.
Great photos!
John Hughes
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I'm with you now Ray!
I'm sure that wasn't the problem, although I do have to pay particular attention when loading now, as I have a Record II that looks much the same, yet loads in the opposite direction!
I've got a couple of the metal spools kicking around here as well. Came upon them just as you did yours!
It's a real kick working with the oldies cameras! I hope I can hone my skills and do them justice!
Thanks for taking the time, Ray! My best to you and yours!
John
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Hey Ray,
Educate me! I always thought a spool was a spool. What am I missing?
Thanks, John
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Thanks for the quick responses.
perhaps I loaded that spool incorrectly (although I did try it more than once). I'll keep trying the Tri-X and if it still doesn't work, I'll give HP5 a run.
Thanks, John
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I've recently acquired a refurbished Isolette III and when I went to load with
film (TriX) the spool holder would not allow the film spool to spin and advance
film. So, I put this roll into another camera and tried FP4+. This worked
perfectly! Is there a difference in 120 spool size between Kodak and Ilford?
(and others?)
Thanks in advance for your responses.
John
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Thanks for your responses. I'm shipping the camera to Harry Fleenor tomorrow. Hopefully, the estimated repairs will be affordable so I can have a new Maxwell screen put into it as well. Mr. Fleenor tells me the service can be complete in about eight weeks time.
Again, many thanks. John
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I recently purchased a Rolleiflex TLR 3.5f on E-bay. I am having
issues with the film transport. After loading film (between the
rollers) and closing the back, the frame counter does not engage nor
does the film winder find a stopping point. I end up winding the film
through. I know I will need to send the camera to someone for an
overhaul and they will likely be able to remedy the problem. I'm
wondering if this is a common problem or if it might cost big bucks
to fix?
Thanks for your time and input. John
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I'm trying to get back in the darkroom! Digging around in the "photo
closet", I found two unopened containers of developer concentrates
(one 16 oz. HC-110 & one 757 mL Tmax). They were stored in a basement
cabinet for nearly 14 yrs! I also found Zone VI fixer (4 dry chem.
packs). My basement temp. range is roughly 60-75F. Is any of this
chemistry still useful? I appreciate any and all comments and would
welcome any darkroom advice. My previous experience in the darkroom
was very limited.
Many Thanks, John Hughes
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The drive up to Grand Marais is beautiful! Many views of the Big Lake; so my preference is to follow the gunflint trail into the BWCA. I have paddled the boundary waters about a dozen times or more. There is gorgeous scenery everywhere! Enlist the help of a local outfitter and let them help you plan and supply your outing. I have personally gone through Tuscarora Outfitters (www.tuscaroracanoe.com). They are excellent at what they do and can provide information that only the local inhabitants would know; sitings of bear, moose, where to find bald eagle nests etc... They will provide you with a good map of your planned route. Keep it in front of you at all times, consult it often and you should have no trouble navigating the route.
From personal experience, one of my favorite spots is Little Saganaga lake, with it's many small islands and a particular camp site just below a large rock outcropping that gives you a great view of the lake. It's a good place to break out the gear in the relative comfort of a camp setting.
Be prepared to get wet! Pack your photo gear and film accordingly!
It will most likely rain or be overcast for some portion of your stay, but if you are blessed with a clear, night sky be certain to go out and stargaze! You may even be treated (as I was) to a vibrant display of the Aurora borealis reflecting off a glass smooth lake! (I was just over the Canadian border and camped on Cache bay.) Where's the picture? Only in my head! I didn't think until the next morning that I should have grabbed the 'pod' and camera! Guess I was awe-struck.
You're gonna have a wonderful time!
Best wishes, John
Safe to use new solution from old stock?
in Black & White Practice
Posted