ian_hobday

September 10, 2004

I have a D60 and use it regularly. The AF is no where near that of my EOS 3 (of course!) but it is also no where near as bad as what you describe... Especially with decent light or using the AF Assist Lamp of my 420EX I would say the AF speed is fine. In dim light without the AF Assist Lamp, well, it sucks. Very smooth surfaces confuse it though, even with decent light.

There might be something wrong with the body you have. Or maybe I have just lowered my expectations (bought my D60 not so long after it came out).

I hope it all works out for you in the end.

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

Paul Hart wrote: Hmmm, yes - I have a Sony T1 (5mp) too, and it's output usually looks inferior to the 10D's on screen.

Going from a 5mp P&S to a semi-pro digital SLR is going to show massive difference! Especially in noise levels, but in other areas too.

Paul,

Until we see reviews of shipping versions of the 20D it is not possible to answer your question with authority.

Based on the previews though, if you shoot a lot at high-ISOs then you might see reduced noise in your images. Also, if you often find yourself heavily cropping images, the extra 2mp will help.

Finally, if the higher fps, faster focusing, smarter flash, and longer JPEG buffer will help your shooting style, then this will probably result in better images in the first place.

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

I would say that it depends on how you will use the camera. Some excellent deals can be found on EOS 1N and EOS 3 bodies these days. But if weight and smaller size are most important then you will probably be happier with the 7.

I looked at the Tamron 180, the Canon 180L, and the Sigma 180. Decided on the Sigma and am extremely happy with it.

Some images here:

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos/Flowers/slides/IMG_5859.html" target="_blank">Flower</a>

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos/Various%20Macro/index.html" target="_blank">Various Macro Shots</a>

Good luck! And be sure to post some samples once you get set up. :)

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

Thought you might find this interesting:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009Prj" target="_blank">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009Prj</a>

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

I can definitely hear the gears moving inside the lens if I listen for it.

But there is no real "friction" as such, and it isn't making any noises that seem out of place.

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

Well, it seems you got a good deal on it anyway! If you don't like it you can always get your money back via eBay. :)

I use the Canon 1.4x with a 70-200 2.8L on my D60 when I want more reach. That gives about an effective 450mm, more than enough for me.

If you have the Canon TC already I'd be interested in seeing how the Tokina compares to the 70-200 + TC combo.

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

Kenko is mostly a filter company (well, to me anyway!) but they do make some other products, such as teleconverters.

Your EOS 3 (I have one too :) will focus to F8. With a 1.4 Teleconverter on a constant F2.8 lens you will get constant F4. With a 2x teleconverter you will have F5.6. You also lose more image quality as the teleconverters get stronger.

As for focusing speed, adding teleconverters is likely to cause slower focusing and more focus misses than just using the lens by itself. You'll need to try it in order to see how it affects AF speed and accuracy.

There is a small chance that the Canon teleconverters will work on your lens. But I would be very careful about it. If you put them together and the lens isn't compatible, you will find out when the lens glass colides with the teleconverter during focusing..... :(

Would be interested in hearing what think of the lens once you get it!

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

I do not have specific knowledge of the lens you have bought. However, it is unlikely that it will work with the Canon teleconverters. Both of the Canon teleconverters' front elements protrude considerably.

The Kenko 300 series (the white ones) are probably your best bet. The 1.4 is not as good as Canon's but the 2x is said to be pretty close. In any case though, you will lose more quality with a 2x than a 1.4. You also lose two stops of brightness with 2x vs 1 stop for a 1.4x.

Good luck, and I hope the lens works out well for you!

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

Here is the link to Tin Cheung Camera's web site:

<a href="http://www.tincheungcamera.com.hk/index.php" target="_blank">http://www.tincheungcamera.com.hk/index.php</a>

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

CoC depends on the size of the film or sensor that you are using. What body do you have?

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

When I was in HK a few months ago I bought a Sigma 180mm macro from Tin Cheung Camera in Kowloon. Fantastic service! I have their web page address at home, but am writing from work right now.

Someone else on photo.net has had good experiences too it seems: <a href="http://www.photo.net/neighbor/view-one?neighbor_to_neighbor_id=51061" target="_blank">Click here to read about it.</a> That link has contact numbers and the address as well. I had no problem talking to the guy in English, and they had no problem with me testing the lens out on my D60. (Yes, I'm a Canon shooter.)

From the look of the price you listed, I guess you are have been into some of the tourist-oriented shops on Nathan Road. Stay away from these! They are easy to spot as they do not post a store name -- lots of neon that says Sony Panasonic Nikon Canon etc etc etc, but no actual store name. They are all run by a rather shady group and are total rip-off artists... Really, stay away.

Good luck, Hong Kong is a great place to go shopping!

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 9, 2004

Jim Koral wrote: Can anyone elaborate as to why you feel the 17-35mm f2.8 is "bad"? I own one and it is excellent across the board.

"Good" and "Bad" are relative things.

The 17-35 2.8L is not considered to be one of Canon's better L zoom attempts. Overall a bit soft, especially at the wide end and towards the corners.

The 16-35 2.8L is a lot better, but the 17-40 4L (although not as fast) is generally considered to be better still.

Look around on the web for early reviews of the 16-35 2.8L -- they usually compared it extensively with the 17-35 2.8L that it replaced.

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 8, 2004

I tried to use my 28-70mm 2.8L hood on the 17-40 4L with my D60. It physically fits without problem of course, but it vignettes at 17mm.

The 24-70 2.8L hood would be perfect though, I am sure.

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 7, 2004

Mark Ci wrote: I pity people coming to photo.net for technical advice these days. They get ten different replies from ten different people who, at best, understand half of what they're talking about.

Wow do I ever agree with you! Reading people's replies about the crop factor is much like listening to film newbies try to discuss ISO/aperture/shutter speed. Frustrating at best...

I think I have a project for this weekend. Going to grab a tripod, my EOS 3, my D60, and a couple of lenses... Will then go out and shoot some sample photos and write an article to go with it.

I don't expect to put an end to all the bad answers, but at least I will have sample images and an article to point people to instead of explaining the same things over and over...

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 7, 2004

Kevin Harper said: Just to point out that using lenses on a DSLR which has a crop factor of 1.6 does NOT give you any extra telephoto effect over and above the stated focal length of the lens used. Your 300 f/4 still has a maximum reach of 300mm but it will give you the equivalent FIELD OF VIEW of A 480mm lens.

This is incorrect.

Shooting a photo of a bird with an imaginary 312mm lens on a 1.6x camera, and shooting the same picture on a full frame camera with a 500mm lens will give you images showing the bird to be the same size.

What will be different is tht the 1.6x camera + 312mm lens will have a depth of field (DOF) of a 312mm lens. The 500mm lens on a full frame camera will of course give you a DOF of a 500mm lens.

This can be good or bad, depending on the image. Sometimes it means that your background will not be smoothly out of focus, and this will distract from the subject. Other times the extra DOF will let you use larger apatures and thus faster shutter speeds.

Good luck!

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 7, 2004

Changing the exposure times is very easy -- just rolling a dial. The LCD display has a backlight so you will not have any problems to see what settings you are choosing.

Good luck!

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 7, 2004

chis JB wrote: Wow is this BS from canon or has anyone come accross this before?

Total BS. Many places in the NH have very high humidity. Japan for one! Also many places in the US, such as Florida. Anyway, it is fine to ignore this "advice".

Edward H wrote: Thanks for wasting our time with your fancy stories, chris.

This seems rather uncalled for to me... No one made you read it. And if your time is so valuable, why did you waste it writing such a comment?

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 7, 2004

Unless you specifically want an ECF camera, why will Canon necessarily make a new camera based on an old camera or old format?

Actually ECF is not at all important for me. I found it annoying and gimiky in my EOS 3, although I know many loved it.

I think the reason people have named the camera the "3D" is because what a lot of people want in digital is what Canon did with the EOS 3 in film -- a camera between the basic EOS 7 and the high-end 1 series.

What I would like to see in an "EOS 3 Digital" is faster focusing, AF to F8, better metering with a spot meter, EOS 3 sized body, 1.3x 8mp sensor... Basically a camera to sit between the 20D and the 1DM2. I'd pay $3000 for it.

Looking forward to Photokina! If the "EOS 3 Digital" doesn't appear I think I will hold onto my D60 until the 1DM3 comes out. :)

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 7, 2004

D30 and D60 had 3 AF sensors. 10D and 300D has 7. 20D has 9. 7D will have 45? Canon's new naming convention confuses me.

The "7D" is the 20D... The original post was based on an old magazine article that had the wrong name for the 20D.

If Canon does bring out a "3D" I wonder what they would call it? 3D sounds weird. 33D sounds like a woman's undergarmet size. 300 is already used for the European market. Maybe they'll put it into the EOS 1 group? Or maybe a 5D? Or maybe they'll just do "EOS 3 Digital"? With the "Kiss Digital" and "Digital Rebel" I think that "EOS 3 Digital" is quite possible. Anyone else have thoughts?

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 7, 2004

Why would Canon introduce yet another semi pro body when there is nothing in the competitions lineup to force them to?

Because there is space in the market between the 20D and the 1DM2.

There are a lot of D60 and 10D owners who feel that the 20D is not a big enough upgrade but that the 1DM2 is too expensive. Quite a few of these would try to stretch budgets to get a "3D" though.

Digital is also a huge shift in photography. Big enough that some people are selling their film bodies & lenses and buying all new again. For people such as this, the "3D" could be quite a draw -- no one else has such a camera, so there is no where except Canon to go to.

Yes, Canon would probably lose some 1DM2 sales if they bring out a "3D". But they would also gain quite a few "up-sells" from the 20D as well...

Just my thoughts... Personally I have a D60 and would buy a "3D" with a 1.3x 8mp sensor + spot metering.

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 7, 2004

Decided to forego food at lunch today and go and look for this mystery magazine... Hey, cameras are more important than food, right? ;)

Anyway... Sorry to report, but this information is rather old and is from the same article that was talking about the 20D as the 7D before the 20 was announced.

It also discusses the 1DsM2 and the other cameras (including the Nikon D200) mentioned in the original post.

I am very much hoping for a "3D" or whatever Canon will call it, but this article is not confirmation of such a camera.

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 6, 2004

If you buy the 52-->58 converter, I suggest leaving it on the lens always, and therefore getting a 58mm UV filter.

Otherwise you will end up having to take it on and off depending on which filters you are using -- eventually it will either get lost or left at home. Then you will be stuck without being able to use half your filters!

Definitely get the 420EX flash. Excellent unit and more than worth the extra $70 over the 220.

I also agree with the previous poster that you should not purchase any more lenses right now. Go out and shoot with what you have and make mental notes about what you wish you had! You may find you don't need anything more than what you have now. Or you might want something totally different than you imagine at the moment...

Good luck!

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 6, 2004

I was thinking the same thing as Lynne. 17mm + 1m away from a horse = Very funky looking warped horse.

Stoping the motion of the horse shouldn't be that hard unless you are working in very low light. A shutter speed of 1/500 or even 1/250 will be more than enough. If the light is low, move the ISO up to 400. Even 800 is not too bad on the 10D.

A motorbike is likely to be moving faster than the horse, so try using a higher shutter speed. Just experiment and see what works.

If you'd like more feedback about the likely cause of the unsharpness in your horse photos, why not post a sample here so we can take a look?

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 6, 2004

You don't say which SLR body (film I assume) and which digital P&S you have.

Since you are happy with the shots that you get from your P&S and you also say that you almost never use your SLR anymore, why not sell both of them and use that money, plus what you would spend on a new SLR lens, and get another P&S with a longer zoom range?

You should be able to get something with a 28-280mm range that is still small and light. This way you won't miss any shots because you didn't want to drag the SLR along...

I know this didn't answer your question, but sometimes different thinking provides good answers. :)

Good luck, I hope you find the best solution for your situation!

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

September 6, 2004

Depends on where I'm going!

My feet. My mountain bike. Or my <a href="http://hobday.net/B4RSK/" target="_blank">Subaru Legacy B4 RSK</a> (think Legacy version of WRX).

Having a car in Osaka is definitely expensive. :( But it has improved my quality of life immensely!

Ian

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Ian Hobday

Osaka, Japan

<a href="http://hobday.net/photos" target="_blank">http://hobday.net/photos</a> (Opens in a new window.)

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