john_lynch5

Why do some people want to be moderators?

<p>You should be asking the people who are requiring you to prove your income. Some will require a copy of your prior year or years tax returns, pay stubs , etc. It is difficult for self employed persons to "prove" or verify income when just starting out (yes, one or two years is considered "just starting out" in this case).</p>

<p>I normally don't use a UV filter, but I am glad some do. Several years ago, I took a chance on a Nikkor 180mm 2.8 lens on that auction site. The lens was accurately described in the eyes of the seller as having "some scratches on the front element" and had clear pictures of the lens. It was extremely cheap and was under my "take a chance" bidding parameter. When I received the lens, it appeared as described. The lens looks like it has been to war several times, but the rear element is pristine and it has been converted to AI using the Nikon mount. As I examined the lens, it became apparent that there was an unmarked filter on the front. It must have been there for years because I couldn't remove it using any of the usual methods. I finally used a can lid remover that my wife has for removing extra tight lids. I was pleasantly surprised that there were no marks of any kind on the front element.</p>

<p>I still use a Weston Master V that i bought in 1964 at the PX in Bremerhaven, Germany. Also, a Spiratone "Portragon" T-Mount lens for classic soft focus portraits.</p>

<p>My advice from experience, pass on beat up FE's. There are too many things that can be wrong electronically with an FE, even if it appears to be functioning.</p>

<p>My wife, a native Texan, says the correct spelling is "Y'all".</p>

The rabbit ears are only needed for Pre AI bodies. As far as the Kiron, it is an exceptional 3rd party lens. However, they do have a tendency to get oil on the aperture blades. I had mine cleaned and it worked fine for awhile, then the problem happened again, so I sold it.

Rebates are handled by third parties, in this case the Advertising Checking Bureau, Inc., 99.9% of the time. The company offering the rebate contracts with the third party to verify the required docs and prepare and mail the rebates. The company provides the third party with the requirements and the third party has a huge staff of clerical employees checking the submitted docs against the requirements. With the large volume these third parties handle, stuff gets lost, some clerk makes a mistake, etc. Assuming you made a copy of the required docs before you mailed them, you should make two copies of your copies and two copies of the letter you received. Write a letter to the ACB detailing the circumstances; where and when you purchased the bundle and the fact that you sent everything required to them and to reconsider their decision. Send this letter to them along with a copies of your docs and the letter they sent you. Then write a letter to Canon with the same information, copies of your docs, the letter you received, and the letter you wrote to ACB. BTW, the letter you received from "Canon" was more than likely actually from ACB on Canon letter head, which how the "you don't qualify" letters are normally handled.

"Though I hate to disagree F8 is not always the same amount of light. Using F8 on my 500mm mirror lens gives me way less light through the lens than F8 on my better lenses."

 

This is wrong. F8 is F8 and is always the same amount of light at the time of exposure. Looking through the viewfinder, the "better" lens will be brighter because the lens is wide open, not at F8. The mirror lens has a fixed aperture of F8. If you set the "better" lens at F8 and close down using the DOF preview, the brightness will be virtually the same.

First, make sure the battery is inserted the correct way. If it is, take the bettery out and clean the battery contacts in the camera with an ordinary pencil eraser. Just gently rub the contacts with the eraser. There is one inside the battery chamber and the other is the battery cap itself. Replace the battery and see if the camera is functioning. If not, you have a dead camera.

<p>That insert does not look like the same configuration as the one in my book. There are two similar cases on the big auction site (search "minolta hard leather" in the bags, straps,cases category, under cameras). Both of those have a configuration like the one in my book. Your insert may have been modified with the foam to someone's personal needs.</p>

I don't have a picture to post but from a small picture in the Amphoto SRT manual (not the instruction booklet), the camera with what appears to be a 50mm mounted, fits vertically on the left side of the case as it sits in your pic (the "Minolta" side).

<p>Last week I went to the Wolf clearance center to check on what they might have since they are closing. I saw an E-410 box with a $200 price tag. It seems that it was new, originally a 2 lens set that was missing the 40-150 lens and was marked down to that price. When I looked, it was also missing the battery charger. The clerk checked with the manager and since they didn't have a charger, I could have it for $125. Next stop, Fry's to find a charger. I picked up a Sakar charger for $15 and two spare batteries marked down to $5 each. So, now I have $150 in a new E-410 with a 14-42 lens and two extra batteries.<br>

Yesterday, my wife sends me to Fry's to pick up some cleaning solution for our floor scrubber and I looked at the case where they have the DSLR's. There are two 40-150 in the box lenses marked $99. I had checked B&H and Adorama for this lens and the price was close to $250. I got one of those. So for the price of a middle of the road P&S, I have acquired an E410 with two lenses for a grand total of $250. Now, I just have to get out and do some shooting.</p>

 

Mounting third party lenses on an OM4 or OM3 can shear off the spot meter reset post on the camera's mount.

The Auto 310 is not TTL compatible with the OM4. It should work in normal auto mode or manual. I believe you also have to use manual on the OM4 to get correct exposure in either case. You need a T20, a T32 or the T(F?)280 for TTL with the OM4. The OM4 does not have a removable, changeable hot shoe unlike the OM1 and OM2.

I am fairly certain that the Polaroid 600SE can be easily converted to 120 film by replacing the polaroid back with a Mamiya roll film back for the Mamiya 23 or Super. The Mamiya backs were available in 6x9 and 6x7 for sure, I'm not certain about 6x6.

Miranda,

Minolta,

Sears branded Pentax (Tower)

<p>I will miss the Wolf clearance center in Dallas. I have bought a lot of stuff there at great prices. I really can't understand why that store is closing; the regular Wolf's in the same building (the two are connected) is remaining open.</p>

When I click on the community tab, I go to the unified forum view, not the community.

<p>The term "Workflow" wasn't in common usage until the digital age.</p>

<p>A tie, both many years ago. 1) discovering I had shot a roll of 120 in my Mamiya Press with the dark slide still in the back (luckily, I was able to re-shoot) and 2) learning the hard way to tension 35mm when loading and watch the rewind as I did the two blank frames.</p>

<p>All the world wide Nikon companies are owned and operated by Nikon, including Nikon USA.. They are foreign subsidiaries of Nikon. Google Nikon corporate and you can see all the Nikon operating companies.</p>

<p>Before you put a non AI lens on any Nikon DSLR except the ones I mentioned above look at the chart here: <a href="http://www.dentonimages.com/page.php?id=art100708a">http://www.dentonimages.com/page.php?id=art100708a</a></p>

It is my understanding that the D40, D40x and D60 are the only Nikon digitals that do not have the AI tab and are the only bodies that can take the pre AI lenses without damage.

<p>Read this posted by a PN member. <a href="http://www.cgstock.com/essays/copyright_lawsuit">http://www.cgstock.com/essays/copyright_lawsuit</a></p>