andrejs_ilicuks

Just implanted POD, went with 2mm thick rubber washer. Chose easy way - opened just top cover. Yes, it gives clunk now (and not with paper pad, mentioned before). For those asking how 'clunk' sounds, there's buddhist answer - one for sure will recognize 'clunk', if it hears it :)

Seems that metering and shutter speeds are realistic, bulb works and haven't tested flash (as I don't have any yet).

 

Please give me a hint on scale focusing - if distance value on scale ring is bigger than real distance, though at infinity setting distant object match yellow image - do I really need to adjust rangefinder (as I undestand) or have to do what is called focus ring adjustment (which should be rare case when ring has moved) ? Well, will go read more on RF adjustments, should come clear.

 

At the end this baby will expose film, I know this !

Winfried - you are suggesting 3mm thickness ? Yashica-guy refer to 2mm as critical, and other sorce say 2.2mm is fine, and insist >3mm cause metering problems. If you call 3mm safe, it's much easier to cut this :) I figured that I have linoleum to cut pads for zillion of Electro's.

 

For shutter closing problem I will try to clean contacts under shutter button. If problem stays with certain f-stops only, I will have to go your route, cleaning contacts under aperture ring.

 

And finally, seems that I have to adjust RF - real distance differ from setting on scale focusing ring - Matt Denton describes it, though not clear which screw it is - right under squared hole in mirror hood with (+) type head ?

 

Again, I can just second many thanks you are receiving everywhere on Net :)

Thanks guys, it is POD ! Winfried, seems you are contributing much on kyphoto.com forums, I started to go through Electro threads there.

After removing top plate, saw that there's no pad at all, inserted temporary pad made from paper with long trail which don't allow temp pad fall into and voila - orange lamp comes into play ! Even more - Bulb works. Of course, I had another issue - with some apertures shutter is not closing (like staying in Bulb), but as I recall this is sorted out on KYphoto forums.

So I'll glue real pad in place and see how it works after reworking seals. Seems promising, hope this will work.

 

Thank you for encouraging :)

Forgot to add - in viewfinder orange light also never goes on, red sometimes comes on together with upper-side panel red light, and sometimes - not.

Hello,

 

finally I've bought into Electro 35, and seems that I have missed some checks

before deal. Battery compartment don't show visible signs of pollution, to be

sure I cleaned spring and cap contacts with naphta. Battery check is positive -

bright green light is on.

In Auto mode, red overexposure lamps reacts to amount of light - if aperture is

large and/or meter sees lot of ligh, red light is on. If aperture is stopped

down or meter is obscured, then red lamp goes off. Orange underexposure lamp

never lights, even if meter is closed by finger. It's hard to judge, but

compared to another point-and-shoots I'm using, I haven't seen on my Electro

shutter opening measured in seconds as I do on Epic, to say.

Note, that in Bulb mode shutter fires for same time as in Auto. Googling around,

I found something similar here

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00ANtJ. Listening sound of

cocking, I can not hear definite 'clunk', sound is even all time.

Maybe be this related to PoD or rather it's electricity issiue ? Meter is

working, just one channel (underexposure) is cut off.

 

I'm not mentioning light seals - after have working with lighter fluid I

estimate that on straightlined Electro it will be a breeze. Just metering problem...

 

TIA,

Andrejs

Rainer, your exposures remain me mines when underexposed. Time ago I gave up and overexpose negs by a stop, especially hi-speed negs. Last roll of 1600 konica exposed at 800 came out better than at box speed, so I'd do /w Natura too.

Jeffrey, what's unique I already wrote (sure, compared to other single use cameras). As reason to why reuse it at all answer is very simple - it's just for fun. If you are looking for technical quality, I don't recommend it.

Hello, just want to share opinion that Konica ISO800 single-use camera w/

flash seems to be good for reuse. Kodak/Fuji (never have opened) users report

that there's high risk of electro schock, different design of canister

sprocket for SUC film. In case of this Konica camera it can be opened not

breaking case (and can be closed again), battery is enclosed in it's

compartment, wiring is "under hood". Even winding sprocket is compatible with

at least Konica film canisters.

Only reason I didn't reload it with ISO1600 fim (to be overexposed) is that

frame meter is designed for 27 exposures while roll I have is 36 exposures, so

I'm not sure about cutting film or hacking meter.

<i>which did not show the green cast</i><p>

 

Frank Van Riper in his book mentions that when he shot some portrait in metro station with intention to capture different light casts (green ceiling from fluorescent lights) and Reala rendered ceiling beige. Sure, he exposed also another film and got what he were after. There are times when film's strong point show up as weakness.

<i>It is a consumer film.</i><br>

 

Personally I don't care whether it's consumer, pro or scientifical film. For me it just works.<p>

 

<i>It has the same sharpness and granularity characteristics as Superia 100</i><br>

 

haven't used superia100 more than couple of rolls, but even my glass-powered eyes see HUGE difference between these two films. If there's no difference in terms of sharpness, then it's spoiled Superia Reala either Superia 100 repackaged as Superia Reala by dirty hands.

 

I go with Superia Reala for low ISO neg as Kodak don't care and Fuji films is what I can get here. I doubt I would be trying to save 10 cents buying Gold.

Jason, ISO160 isn't faster than ISO100 to use it specially, they are about the same speed, so I'd pick one depending on preferences. For occasions you mention I would choose from 400H and 800Z, overexpose a stop and get both speed and fine grain (for their speeds, o.c.)

 

In similar way I thought that in India I will be fine with ISO100 (plenty of light, ha ha), though in tropical countries they also have dark, and it's darker than in northern countries.

F.P. - thanks for replaying, this is interesting information. Worth considering. If you have some scans from your lide 600f, please share to see.

found page on CIS vs CCD comparison. It's strange how LiDE has become good at scanning, as said by some people.

 

http://www.compareindia.com/tips/All_you_need_to_know_about_scanners.htm#flatbed

yeah, that's rather light source, not sensor itself, what reviewers are raving about. LEDs instead of lamp.

Recently I realized that develop only and scanning film myself would let me

minimise scratched film. I'd use flatbed to get scans for proofing and

occasional 4x6 prints, few frames worth enlarging I'd get scanned on film

scanner for money.

After quick research I've found few references to canon's LiDE 500f flatbed w/

film adapter (now being replaced by 600f) and main statement is that this CIS

sensor based flatbed is doing good job. One sample found on net, though weren't

impressed after recently retouching Reala (ok, 35mm) scanned on fs4000us. That's

OK, this flatbed isn't replacing film scanner, I knew this before.

 

I'm wondering if CIS sensor is adding to scanning quality or is just useful to

help make scanner thinner, eliminate warmup time and minimise energy consumpion

? Probably I'd get same with any CCD flatbed like 4200 or similar Epson

flatbed, or CIS is making flatbed more able to scan film ? Some source mentioned

that CIS sensors are weaker than CCDs in terms of color quality. Then I don't

understand why some people refer to 500f as "first flatbed I actually used to

start digitize my film archive and didn't drop it".

 

Any experience with LiDE series ?

 

TIA,

Andrejs

Hello Susan,

 

Polap/Kodak phone# is +3717551831

You can check address and see on map where they are located following the link (click on name to see map opening)

 

http://www.1188.lv/az?isearch=polap+kodak&search_type=normal&x=0&y=0

 

E-6 films can get processed processed taking them to either lab in Elizabetes Str. 69, in very center of city

 

http://www.1188.lv/az?isearch=R%C4%ABgas+foto+repro+baltic+elizabetes&search_type=normal&x=0&y=0

 

or to Baltijas Foto Serviss on Pulkveza Brieza str. 3

 

http://www.1188.lv/az?isearch=baltijas+foto+serv&search_type=normal&x=33&y=7

 

Never have used second one (BFS) just because they are off my daily route and with my small volume I've been happy in first place. But this doesn't mean that you can not use BFS.

 

Enjoy shooting in Riga !

Susan, film choice has been hugely reduced in last year, I clearly recall kodak slides beeing in shop round the corner, but not this days. Only place I found E100GX is wholesaler, they are selling to firms, plcs etc. only, not individual from the street. Package of 20 rolls 35mm E100GX is available for Ls97 at Polap/KODAK division and you need to arrange deal thru some firm, which shouldn't be hard, if you really need this film. Isn't price nearly same as in UK ?

Susan, I'll check about availability tomorrow. You can develop slides at least in two places in Riga, not sure if they use dip and dunk (or what are you calling professional processing ?), though never had problems , although I can not guarantee 100%, naturally. For price 2-3Ls (read-pounds) per roll you will be just fine, except you will have to wait, to say, 3-4-5 days, as volume is low.

Seems that this times most pictures taken in London by foreign tourists will originate from disposables, bought on place. Or specialty shops will start lending cameras for those, who aren't brave enough to put their camera stuff in luggage - English are known as football players, though airport luggage handlers may be football fanatics.

Diego, "cool guy" wasn't to offend someone projecting slides, rather in days of technomania and expensive realty so few are projecting that it's rather uncommon. Turntable would nicely complement this analogue luxury, if you start to mess with slides at all.

 

Regarding "special kind of scenes" I should be more specific, I mean lightning and I'm pretty sure that I will not shoot slide again under trees to capture event as people are where they are, move independent from me and don't care about hotspots caused by massive contrast in scene (rays of light between trees and shadows under trees). There's "shoot or miss". When I go out for pure nature I'm free to arrange frame at my will and can wait for cloud to diffuse harsh light or for sun to warm up rainy day. Sure I'm novice and fail in situations where more experienced shooters survive.

As far as I have fooled with 35mm slide film a.k.a. transparencies, they make sense only if I'm scanning them personally or get high quality scans by someone else. When directly printed on Frontier or Noritsu, it's more or less same what you get from negative and less than you see on slide. Another story is exposing slide properly, which includes special kind of scenes you can use it for (for best results).

 

Sure, you can shoot slides and project them on white screen in darkened room, playing vinils or roll tapes in background and become a cool guy in your network.

Superia Reala and 400H/800Z for indoors. I stick to Fuji as I can easily buy their films, Kodak's offer probably would be Ultra Color 100 or Elite Color 200 (Europe) and Portra range 400/800 films (UC/EC 400 including), NC or VC flavour by your taste. I recommend negative unless you are doing your own scanjob. Anyway you have to try some rolls of choice before going.

First roll of 160C led me thinking that I like it better than Superia Reala, which seems more bland. Probably fact that I overexpose 160C shooting it at ISO100 makes some sense, so I will try Superia Reala at ISO50 to compare if this adds punch.

Isn't NPZ shot at ISO400 blown out in highlights ? I know neg handles overexposure, many shoot ISO800 films at ISO640 or like that, as seen here in forum.

 

I just realized that mju/epic should had NEG/POS switch on it to change expocorrection program depending on type of film. One can say that expocorrection would be enough, but we are talking about P&S, isn't it point&shoot ?

Niclas, actually you can. For ISO100 negative, give a try for 160 series and Epic will expose them at ISO100, thus overexposing a bit. Not mentioning spot metering, which you know, another thing is to stick small piece of slightly tinted film-like material over light meter window to fool meter. This is useful as you overexpose whole roll, not fooling with spot metering from frame to frame. Problem is to find material which most closely fits your needs, but with negative it's not so critical.