nabeeko
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Posts posted by nabeeko
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figure so that I do not freak out when I am actually paying?
I have a 70-200mm 2.8L USM (non-IS) that cost me a pretty penny years
back.
Unfortunately, in the dark, I rubbed the front element with my UV
filter while screwing it of.
Now it has a big scratch on the front which I can tell will cost me
another pretty penny =(.
Does anyone have an ballpark figure on how much the pretty penny will
cost me? Would it be through Canon?
Thank you.
Steve
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Sergio,
The 20-35mm (Actually two lenses, one being 2.8L and the other 3.5-4.5). Both are great optically and will work for the 10D. You're not going to get the super wide angle these are capable of as with the 1.6X factor.
My recommendation will be the 17-40mm 4L. Although slightly higher priced, you'll get USM(2.8L doesn't have this feature), wider images, shaper images, and better color.
SL
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Joerg,
The 18-55mm is much more capable than most third party lenses.
I've used 18-55mm, 20-35mm and currently using 17-40mm. Although the 17-40mm is a tad better in sharpness, the 18-55mm is still competitve. The difference between the 18-55mm and the 20-35mm isn't night and day. Unsharp Masking is the way to go as the lens can produce excellent images.
Good luck.
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"Are there any disadvantages in buying 17-40 instead of kit. I mean is kit lens better in any way"...
They are mostly used for landscapes (although portraits are done quite nicely with both lenses). I myself like the color of the 17-40mm 4L compared with the 18-55mm. 18-55mm is very capable and sharp as well. The difference is quite small. You already have two lenses that take 58mm Filters, why no get the 18-55mm, if you try and really hate it, sell it.
With 18-55mm(TOP)
<img src=http://photos.photosig.com/photos/78/48/1434878-74e1614408c7ff88.jpg>
With 17-40mm 4L(BOTTOM)
<img src=http://photos.photosig.com/photos/73/00/1420073-ce74307d68d6e747.jpg>
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Marc must be the marketing manager at Janos Photo! ;)
I don't how it gets better though.
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Danny,
Where are the pictures? ;)
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Lens! Lens! Lens! If your a newbie, use the DRebel until
you get the hang of ALL the features. The lens is the thing that makes the difference in image quality. Although the 20D may be 8.2mp and have a better buffer, you're not going to see a "world" of differences. Better lenses with a lower body ALWAYS than a better body with lower lens!
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Mark,
It all depends on what you're photographing.
If indoor portraits, 50mm will be more than enough.
If indoor groups or little space, you have to go wider than
35mm, more like 17-20.
Steve
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Hello All!
I have been successful making reservations for Sedona
the week of December 20 and 21(two nights).
-DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHERE TO PHOTOGRAPH THE BEST
LANDSCAPES?
-AT THIS TIME OF YEAR, ARE THERE SNOW AT CATHEDRAL ROCK?
-HOW DEEP WOULD THE RIVER IN FRONT OF CATHEDRAL ROCK BE?
-WHAT WOULD BE THE IDEAL LENS TO BRING? I DON'T WANT TO LUG AROUND
20-30 LBS OF EQUIPMENT!
Thanks !
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I have THE ULTIMATE solution!
Buy a Nikon for the wide angle, Canon for the Telephoto,
Buy a Film SLR for the Velvia, DSLR for the computer,
Medium format for the Prints...So on and so forth...
The difference isn't going to be much to the naked eye, if in fact there is a difference.
If you want the best equipment, find the best photographer in the world and use exactly what he/she uses. Because it's the equipment that takes the pictures not the photographer, right?
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"It is well known that you get more noise from the sensors in hot conditions and that black absorbs sunlight more than silver. Therefore you get more noise from a black dRebel than a silver one."
Is it true that since the 10D and DRebel uses the same CMOS sensor but the fact that the 10D is black, 10D is prone to higher noise?
I don't have a 10D, but if thats the case why get it?
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Lars,
The prime would be superior in handling flare and very useful in low light situations (great for museums). The zoom is awesome in terms of sharpness and color (great for landscapes). It all depends on what body you're using. But I suggest you get both a prime and the zoom.
If....
Film: 17-40mm 4L + 50mm 1.8
Digital(1.6x): 17-40mm 4L + 28mm f2.8 or 35mm f2
My 2 cents.
Steve
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Hello all!
I have a Canon D-Rebel which I would like to use for Kid/Baby
portrait(eventually for adults too). What would be a better choice?
Umbrellas or Softbox? I don't know much about lighting but I have
heard that my camera doesn't have a PC socket? so I don't know
whether the strobe works. If I get the softbox, what should be ideal
in terms of pricing and what size, and what else would I need(stand,
softbox, type of lights?
Thank you!
Steve
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The answer.... YES!
As a former 7e user, I really can't see much of a downgrade. The metering can be adjusted by exposure lock(which changes it to partial metering) and with the hack for the DRebel, it transforms the DRebel into a "plasticky" 10D. As for the plastic, it's as durable as the 7e plastic but it "looks" more plasticky due to the silver color of the DRebel. The DRebel comes with the 18-55mm wide angle lens (which doubles as a great macro as well) and the image quality isn't that bad. Of course when time comes (and finances allow) the 17-40mm 4L is far superior!
You already have a 50mm 1.8 (a fine lens) for portrait as it becomes a 80mm (crop factor of 1.6x) and a super telephoto for your average shoot, you get it all!
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Ken,
You can try this with a $2000 "L" lens and you'll have the same problem. Try to focus on something visible to the lens. Or go manual.
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Hello all!
How would one rate the quality of the COKIN "P" series filters for
the DRebel w/ 17-40mm 4L?
Is the COKIN Filter system any better than regular screw in filters?
Can you get a regular screw-in type that offers ND grad?
THanks!
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Go to a BMW dealer and ask whether a BMW is better or a Mercedes.
Just giving you a hard time!
If you need the Spot Metering, go with the D70. IF YOU WANT EVERYTHING ELSE, GO FOR THE 10D, OR EVEN THE DREBEL. CANON MAKES THE BEST LENSES. GO TO A SPORTS EVENT AND TAKE A LOOK AT ALLL THOSE WHITE LENS, IT'S CANONS!
FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS SHOOT NIKONS!
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Hello...
I just purchased work lights (yellow in color with its own stand)
from Home Depot for $29 - 1000w(two 500w halogen bulbs). I want to
make a diffusion panel for this set up and was wondering if there was
a special fabric one might use (a standard?). Is there a instruction
to make the frame out of PVC piping? This is to make a poor man's
studio for baby shots (maybe head and shoulder shots for adults too)
in my home. This will used in conjunction with a Canon 420ex Flash.
Your comments please.
THANK YOU!
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As you can see on the image, there are several "Dots" that show up on
the image(in the sky). Does anyone have a clue to what this is? I've
had the camera for about 4 months now. It can't be the lens. Can it?
Thanks.
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Sam,
If you're not bothered losing the long end of the 28-105mm, get the
17-40mm 4L. It would be one of you bet investments. The 20-35mm is still very sharp but not wide enough for the the wide end. Since you have the telephoto with the superb 85mm, you'd end up with a killer combo! THe attached is a image with the 17-40mm with the drebel.
Steve
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Does anyone have a good book that has assignments and lessons that
can be useful in learning photography without going to a institution
like NYIP?
I can say I pretty much know "some" basics but only due to
experience, not study.
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It looks like they're trying to get you to spend a couple extra dollars. The Pro-1 filters are a higher grade (definately worth the price) but you'll do without them. The Hoya 77mm UV (0) "Made in Japan" is also excellent at a lower price.
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Hello all!
How good is the macro capability of using these tubes vs macro lenses
or the diopter? Can any post a picture of how this performs? Please
advise the lens used on the picture. Thanks.
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GET IT!!!
GIVE ME HIS NUMBER!!!
HAPPY SHOOTING!!!
CANON EOS-55 to EOS-20D
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
If you plan on switching completely to DSLR format, and if you'll sell/not use the EOS 55, get the 10-22mm EF-S Lens by Canon.
It's not the cheapest but the lens quality and the images it produces are very worthy.
This will convert to 16-35mm (1.6x crop factor) on a 20D.