nabeeko

Marc,

You're genius! =)

60mm EF-S is a much needed macro!

Steve

Congrats!

$$$ works wonders!~

If you're able to do fine with 1.8, why buy anything else?

Just stay natural and stay with you current setup.

If flash is a must (but you did say you were very happy with the current setup), I'd spend the money on the 430ex (again, if you must).

my 2 cents...

I believe the CMOS is made by Canon for Canon.

Nikon's id from Sony...

Marie,

I've used both f/1.4 and f/1.8 of the 50mm version.

I have gotten rid of the f/1.4 as, in terms of sharpness, they're pretty much the same.

f/2.5 will be sharper, but as it is a macro lens, it may be a little too sharp.

The following picture was taken with a 20d and a 50mm f/1.8

<img src=http://www.yevin.com/bbs/data/yevin/yevin_friend.jpg>

Hope this helps.

$3500

-$1,100 (30D with Kit Lens)

-$1,000 (70-200mm 2.8L)

-$1,000 (24-70mm 2.8L)

-$250 (430ex)

That will be more than enough. Covering quite some distance from up close.

I was interested in providing my customer with 11x14 or a 16x20

print(the ones that are textured) that they can frame or I can frame for them.

The one I'm interested in are not the traditional prints but something they can

hang and wipe dust off with a rag/towel and not damage the picture.

The place I've found online is:

CanvasOnDemand.com

Does anybody have any experience here or any place that

will get me similar quality/price, please advise.

This is my first where I will be doing prints(I was only doing CD's) and

packages.

Thanks for your posts in advance.

Believe it or not, that is a real Canon.

I've seen it several times before and a friend of

mine had itfor fun. It is VERY plastic-like feel to it, very much

like a toy.

It does take pictures.

Juan,

What is your budget?

For sub $100 the 380ex is a great flash. But can not bounce vertically.

For $150 range, the 420ex is a very capable lens.

The price are from classifieds, auction site, and such.

Good luck!

Anatoly,

If you're going to be shooting in low light conditions, the IS is the only way to go.

I have used the non-IS version and use the IS version today. I can not tell much difference. My honest opinion, they're the same.

The f/4 version with or without IS is very sharp as well.

The 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM is known to be the "Bokeh Superstar".

Thanks guys for all the responses and methods.

Leopold, no hard feelings. Thank you!

One more thing to add to by dear friend Leopold...

Thanks for letting me know that it's called sensor dust. I learn new things every day. Maybe, just maybe, if you could, please RE-read the question >>> What sensor brush/cleaner would you recommend? And how would you use it?

Leopold,

Thank you for your comments...PLEASE RE-READ. Maybe you'll understand second time around, or maybe you'll never understand. If that's the case, keep your comments to yourself. You sure know how to make good friends.

"I have been shooting outdoor portraits for the past many months and rarely had the chance to shoot at smaller apertures(f/11 and beyond) as I tend to fashion the "blurred-background" look." Nothing's corrected,

I have been shooting outdoor portraits for the past many months and rarely

had the chance to shoot at smaller apertures(f/11 and beyond) as I tend to

fashion the "blurred-background" look.

Last week I purchased a macro lens and stopped the lens down to f/16.

To my surprise,(I almosted fainted) I saw dots all over the image. First I

thought it was the lens, however, I switched to another lens(stopped down) and

found the same UFOs as the first image.

I know this is normal but didn't find it a problem for portraits.

What sensor brush/cleaner would you recommend? And how would you use it?

Hello...

I've been recently receiving requests to take pictures and make albums for

families.

I've done a few in the past for friends and family but nothing for completely

unrelated customers.

I have a few questions that I would appreciate your help on.

1. Do I need a model release?

2. Any contracts?

3. Who holds the copyright? Can I use some of the images I take of them for

display on my website (for viewing and promotional purposes)?

4. Anything else I might need? i.e. Business License.

Please help. I'm completely new at this (the business portion).

Thank you.

Steve

For vivid colors outdoor, a polarizer will indeed help.

For indoors your "L" lens will do what you need (if you want more, us PS).

Hoya, Nikon, B+W, and Heliopan would be my choices. Your's may differ.

Andy,

What type of camera are you using?

with the DSLR (Rebel, XT, 20D, D30, D60, 10D) you will not see any

vignetting.

The slim filter is just thread slim. It doesn't go into the lens. It

will not touch it.

Cokin P system is fine, but again it all depends, what is you camera?

Robert,

The first (tux shot) is from the 1.4 and

second "Jeju 2005" is from the 1.8.

I didn't see much of a difference when I compared sharpness between the two lenses on a tripod.. Although when it was

dark, 1.4 was useful.

QUESTION TO YOU:

How many times are you going to be shooting

at f/1.4?

<img src=http://s92499896.onlinehome.us/bbs/data/images/1130728222/IMG_6156.jpg>

<img src=http://s92499896.onlinehome.us/bbs/data/images/IMG_2292.jpg>

CORRECTION:

"Other than the main fact that the 1D has better sealing, most people would want the full frame for the wide angle."

There will be consumers who will benefit from 5D's Full frame and consumers that will benefit from 1D's Sealing.

Mark:

The reason(IMHO) 5D doesn't interfere with 1D MKII is because 5D is a Full-Frame DSLR, 1D MKII is not. Other than the main fact that the 1D has better sealing, most people would want the full frame for the wide angle.

Stuart:

Unless you buy your camera gear like it's a pack of baseball cards, I don't quite understand your question. If resale value is your main concern, I'd stick with a Leica and not use it(box it up) for about 50-75 years(then you might be seeing some$$$).

Hello.

I have a 20D and I am currently doing a shoot for a catalog/poster.

I've been printing from JPEGS and a new question has been asked.

They are requesting a file size of 20+MB. When I shoot the 20D at the

highest setting, it only totals out to approx 2-3MB. Is there a

setting in the camera to change this? I have tried changing th eJPEG

in PS CS to TIFF, which chnages the file size but doesn't that just

stretch out the 2-3MB into 20+MB's?

Thank you.

Steve

"This lense would mostly be used for sports pictures inside and out..."

For indoor sports, even the 2.8 will give you a hard time. Don't go for 4L unless it's outside.

But the 200mm is a bit too long for indoor use. I would suggest the 85mm f1.8 for indoor sports and the 200mm for outdoor.

Steve

Robert...

Here it is...

In comparision with the 100-400mm I.S. (most comparable) it is very similar in quality but...

(Not so good)

1.Has Coffee grinder mode (very loud)

2.Has Slow motion focusing

3.Has No I.S.

4.Has No Tripod Mount

(Good)

5.is lower priced

6.has constant Aperture

7.is light-weight

After using this lens(100-300mm 5.6L), I thought it was VERY sharp, but I needed a zoom for kid portraits, and this was out of the question.

Hello...

Please help.

I've been using Photoshop for awhile but this problem is the first.

When I take a picture, download it to the computer, and open it on

Photoshop, the colors are much richer(saturated) than the original

viewed on the Windows picture and fax viewer.

Now my black and whites look more like a sepia tone than a true black

and white. But when I save it and view it on any other computer

regardless of the viewing program, it is pure black and white.

Was it something I touched?

I NEED YOUR HELP.

Thanks.

Steve