alistair o
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Posts posted by alistair o
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<p>I use a Voigty 15mm, Zeiss 21/4.5 and 50/2 and the Elmarit 90/2.8 on a NEX C3. Great little combo but the lack of VF is a dealbreaker - though this is fixed in the NEX 7. I also use a 1dsMk2 with good L primes and zooms. This gallery has a mix of the two systems and you can see the relative IQ's:<br>
The following gallery is all NEX because I would not have got these with the Canon - it is too big to carry into the desert and too obvious in the back-streets.<br>
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The 20d has 25% higher pixel density than the 5d and hence the 5d crop from your test will only have around 6mp at a guess. This is why, if you are focal length limited (as you are in this test) the 20d will give you a higher resolution image than the 5d of the same crop. You will need to go to the 1dsII to better the 20d in this test.
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Paul, your response on this thread is the most insightful thing I have read on any photographic equipment forum.
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Looking at this very detailed review (http://www.photo-i.co.uk/Reviews/interactive/Epson%20V700/page_13.htm) gives me reason to be optimistic that the V700 is at least the equal of the Coolscan 9000. It reports a superior quality scan to the Coolscan 4000 which in turn gives a similar result to the 9000, only it is limited to 35mm. And of course the V700 can scan LF. The V750 is yet to be released and is reputed to be even better. Sounds like progress to me.
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The manual for this unit states that it can use NiMH batteries.
However I find that unless they are freshly and fully charged, the
flash will not work with these batteries. I can only surmise that,
at 1.2 volts, the voltage level is marginal. Because they slowly
discharge and lose voltage it does not take long for them to reach a
voltage too low for the flash. Does anyone have similar experience
or is my flash unit faulty?
Thanks and regards.
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Robert, thank you for your kind offer of assistance. Please contact me at owens@xtra.co.nz to progress. Thanks and regards. Alistair
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I have the above combination with the SCA 3952 module. When it is
turned on with the adaptor attached, the flash just ticks and the
rear display does not come on. When I take the adaptor off and turn
on the flash it comes on fine. Leaving it turned on I can slide the
adaptor on and it is still fine. However if I turn it off and try to
turn it back on it will not go unless I take the adaptor off!!
Has anyone experienced this type of problem before?? Any thoughts
folks, am I doing something wrong here??
Looks like the module is faulty and I may have to try a new one.
Any and all thoughts appreciated.
regards
Alistair
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I used to own the old 70-210/F4 and always liked it but I do think that i had a particlularly good example. I usually used it at the long end, often wide open where I found it excelled. I found that it was average only at the short end (which your tests seem to bear out). I would be interested in a comparison at 200 and 210mm respectively, one at 2.8 and the other at 4.0. (i.e. both wide open).
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I have this lens and consider it to be only an average performer. I do not think that it would be a material improvement over your 28-100 at the wide end. It is of course a lot wider which may be what you want. I would instead look to a good AF-D Nikkor prime around 28mm.
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Sounds like he is being driven by the availability of cheap D1H. Forget the D1H or any other camera. What vision does your brother in law aspire to capture with his photography? What is the one in a million shot that he has in his mind that he wants to take? What image has he seen that he wishes he had taken? Now, what equipment would be best for taking that shot? - Sports camera?, Photojournal camera?, medium format film? etc.etc.
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Get the kit lens and use it for a while. Then you will better understand what you need. Probably the kit lens plus a 70-200 VR. May be a little over your budget but not by much and you will have some time to save and watch the 70-200 come down in price.
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NiMH are OK and will not damage your camera but as you already have noted, the standard MS-30 holder only takes 8 full AA size batteries. At 1.2V each this makes 9.6 volts. The F5 shuts down somewhere between 6 and 8 volts depending upon who you ask. The problem is that NiMH batteries (and NiCad) lose their voltage gradually over the life of their charge. It does not take many rolls of film for NiMH to achieve this relatively small voltage drop. The batteries are still fine but the F5 will not want to use them. You can put them into something else and they will go for the remaining 2/3's of their life. The MN-30 battery pack actually uses 10 4/5 size 1.2 volt cells to get to 12 volts and although they are only around 1300 mAh they last a long time as the voltage has a longer way to drop.
As you have pointed out, there is the 9th cell modification which you can read about by doing a search on Nikonians.com - I do not really like this as it is a bit bodgy but it can work.
The other option is to go with non-rechargeable lithium batteries which last very well as they do not gradually lose voltage - only at the end of their life does their voltage drop.
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Should get the 800 as your first controller flash. You will want to add more in the future and these can be 600's.
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I thought you said that you loved the images that you are taking with the lens wide open. Why let some offhand comment from someone that you do not know make you question your own eyes? Stop worrying about nothing. You have one of the best (if not the best) lenses that Nikon makes. Be sure of this and go out and learn for yourself the conditions under which the lens best delivers the vision that you have for your photography.
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The 10D started to fall when Nikon bought out the D70 and fell some more when 20D was rumoured. So look out for Nikon D200 (next new Nikon due) followed 6-12 months later by 30D.
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Eugene, I really enjoyed looking at your portfolio of the protest. It seems that the KGB have indeed mellowed in recent times. That can be said I guess for police in many parts of the world.
I was reminded of this by a recent documentary made to commemorate 25 years since the Southall (London) race riots of 1979 where police "special unit" clubbed to death a fleeing school teacher and needlessly brutalised many more.
Regretfully there were no cameras there to witness this act and nobody was made to account. Cameras can and do lie but I would take the word of a camera over that of a politicial any day.
Go well.
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Try a second hand D2H (must plummet in value once D2x is freely available) or even F5.
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I use an F2 and F5.
The big advantage of the F4 is that it can use all your old lenses. Since you also have an F2 this is not a big factor for you. In respect of metering and AF, the F4 is a generation behind the F100 and the F5 and is inferior in these important areas.
The decision then comes down to F100 vs F5. Everything about the F5 is better than the F100 except the red AF indicators and the size/weight. For me personally I preferred the integral vertical grip of the F5 and I find it ergonomically very nice to hold and use. I do not consider a few hundred grams in weight an issue. You need to decide whether red AF indicators and size outweigh all the other F5 advantages (speed, build, weather resistance, interchangeable viewfinders, AF speed - esp with non-AS lenses, etc. etc.)
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Not a Nikon but the Canon S430 and S500 have spot. Great little cameras.
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I vote for the 1.8 AF-D. Cheap, quality optics and the plastic takes the knocks. In fact it is as tough as old boots.
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In terms of your digital archive requirement, are you fully cognisant of what you will need to get the equivalent archive properties of film? Budget on a good backup drive and be prepared to refresh your digital media at least annually. Do not consider that you can just copy to CD and that will last as long as a negative. Depending upon storage and brand, a CD will start to deteriorate within a couple of years.
Also, consider the storage media and file formats. The issue is unsolved by current technologies so look out for a couple of quick technology lifecycles to pass through before an effective long term solution is converged upon. We have seen 5.25 inch drives, 3.5 inch drives, zip drives and now CD's in the last 10 years. Still not there so you will need to be prepared to update your technologies to keep current as the technology cycles through.
Failure to manage this issue will render the files of your most precious memories just a jumble of 1's and 0's.
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I had the same issue but that my images were ending up normal size but comprising a collage of two or three different images. It was my digital camera that it happenned on and it was due to some sort of file corruption.
That was the last straw for me and digital and while I have kept my digital body, I shoot only film now and use a good local pro lab for development. No more archiving issues for me.
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How much do you shoot? You may be better of with an F5 or F6 and you will have no archive issues to worry about.
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Welcome to the world of digital prosumer. The 5700 is particularly bad in this respect. I owned one for a short while but could not live with it and found that the only way to truly cure it was via ebay.
Sony NEX 7 Withe Leica or Contax lenses
in Leica and Rangefinders
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