bill_greineisen

I just created a very nice logo for my photography business. I would like to

save this logo in my actions pallet so I can put my logo oa a bunch of photos

all at the same time. I know how to create and save an action but somehow

cannot figure out how to save something that is already created.

Two questions: Like most High school gyms, the gym is poorly lit. The team I'm doing is small, only about 12 kids, If I use the two ABs on max power and shoot RAW, can I use the flash mode?

and If I use gels; would the gels be used instead of the soft box? B&H sells a gel that goes in front of the soft box.

I will be shooting team photographs in a High school gym. The gym is lit with

those huge tungston lights high up on the ceiling. I will be using 2 AB 800s

with medium size soft boxes. My camera is a canon Mk11 N. I would like to hear

from others that shoot in gyms. Would you recomend setting the wb on flash,

tungston or custom. I don't have my camera handy but I'm pretty sure there is

no autu wb on tne MK11 N. Thanks.

I use a Canon 5D and a 20D. I am a pretty versitile photographer. I shoot

every thing from senior portraits and weddings to sports and nature, so given

I already own the Canon 70-200 2.8 would you recomend going with the Canon 300

2.8 and a 1 0r 2X extender to get long range shots, or the Canon 400 2.8 for

your long range shots. I guess my question is will the 70-200 with the canon

1x extender give me a nice 300mm lens that works well in low lit areas like

night football games and dusk and dawn shots, or will the extender drop the

lens down too many stops for good depth of field shots in low light? And yes,

I do realize the price difference between the two lens.

Thank you,

Bill

OK, lets say you are a photographer that shoots mostly weddings but also

fashion, glamour (model portfolios), high school and youth sports,( aspire to

some day do college and pro sports ),commercial and product photography. You

come into a large sum of money lets say 125 grand. You have a a canon 20d;

What would your choices of lenses be? Don't ask what lenses I already have we

are starting from scratch. Remember, money is no object.....

Garry,

I'm using a canon 20D digital. I like the resutts I get from a 2:1 or a 3:1 ratio with the fill and the main. It just seems that with b&w I have more latitude and don't have to be so persice. If fact the shodows that would be horrible in some color photos actully work great in B&W.

Is the lighting set up for B&W photography the same as the lighting

set up for color photography...IE main light f8 and second light f5.6

camera set to 1/125 and f8?

Thanks, Bill

OK, now I am totaly confused. I knew there was going to be a learning curve, but I wasn't expecting to be this confused. I may be wrong as I am just learning the Canon D20 but I am pretty sure you can set the camera to Adobe RGB.

 

So if I understand you, you are saying to keep the settings in the camera, motitor and printer in sRGB? If I do this and create a profile with the Monaco Optix, my prints will look exactly the same as they do on my monitor?

Mark, Thanks again. Yes I agree, I was surprised when the Epson tech told me that. I think I was just that one guy because the others at Epson were very knowledgeable and helpful. I did follow your steps and the print came out fine, still a little too dark but I think that will be corrected when I calibrate the system. One question. I do like the option of the numerous ways to set up the prints per page when you go to the widows picture and fax viewer, such as four 4x6s on one page. Is there a way to set this up when printing directly from photoshop to the Epson?

Mark, it worked. Much better, at least I am close. When I spoke to Epson they told me to try it like this.. first do all the corrections in photoshop and save the photo to my pictures or wherever. Open my pictures or wherever you saved the picture and right click on it. In the drop down menu select "Open with" than click on Windows picture and fax viewer. Once you see the image click on the printer icon on the bottom tool bar and just follow the directions from there. It is very easy.

My images are still a little too dark. I also have a new Dell 19in Ultra sharp monitor so I orded the Monaco EZ color optix bundle. From all I have read, it seems calibration is a essential step for accurate color so I hope this will all come together in the next few days. Again...Thanks for all the great help

Thanks Mark, I'm at my office now and away from computer. But I will try your suggestion as soon as I get home tonight. Thank you again.

Thanks Jeff. Yes the camera is set on Adobe RGB and I do print color I have been using Epson glossy paper. I called Epson and was told to open Photoshop/file/open/my pictures and right click on the imiage I wanted to print. On the drop down menu click on open with windows picture and fax viewer. When I do that the photo looks pretty close to what I am looking at on my monitor and looks the same when I print it.

When I open the same picture in photoshop again and go to print from the file menu, the way you would normaly print a picture, in print preview the print is really redish and prints that way also.

Hope this info helps. Again... Thanks

Mark, Thanks so much. How about the color managment policies section. Do I select preserve profile or convert to working RGB or do I leave off in RGB? How about the CMYK or the grey, do I turn them off? I have to go to work now, but will continue this quest tommorow morning. I will order a monitor calibration device this afternoon.

No, I have not Yet calibrated the monitor. That is another question. Is a monitor calibration device a necessity, or should all these devices be able to talk to one another?

I must be a total rock. I know this information has been posted a

thousand times on various forums but I am still lost. I have a new

19 in Dell Ultra Sharp monitor, a Canon D20 camera and an Epson 2200

printer and use Photoshop CS. All new, bought within the last two

weeks. My prints look to dark. Can someone that has gone through

this mind bending experience please share the secrets to your

sucess.

In Photoshop edit/color settings/ working space I have Adobe RGB

set. In color manegment policies I am given two choices...preserve

profile or convert to working RGB. What is the right choice? and do

I use this choice for CMYK and grey also or do I turn them off?

In the printer I have color managment profile to ICM and ICC

profile set to no color managment. I set the profile for the paper I

am using set Super Photo 2280. Nice lookig print, but still darker

than what I am seeing on the monitor.

Are there some settings I am missing or some steps that I may not be

aware of?

Thanks Kevin. Much appreciated.

Newbie to portrait photography and would like some advice on

backdrops. Does it matter, muslin or paper. What are the pros and

cons? And if muslin 100% cotton or does it matter if it is a poly

blend? I'm a pretty handy guy so I am planning on building my own

support. ( that's the plan anyway ) Any advice will be greatly

appreciated.

Les,

Not too long ago I was in the same boat you are in. At the time my biggest decision was, what would give me more satisfaction.. to shoot it with 00 buck shot or blow it up. But after several posts to this site I received some great advice, now I love it. My 5400 works better than I could have ever wished for.

It, like anyother tool takes some time to master, but once you do you easily become very proud of your work.

Don't give up, pose every question you have here and you will get a solution to it. Don't be afraid to ask questions, we all are learning to one degree or another. OH, and one more thing, you might want to keep a few shots of Jack Daniels on hand. Bill

All great advice... I cannot thank everyone on the photonet forums enough. I like my 35mm, and and have a good amount of money invested in 35mm equiptment. I am actually getting pretty good at taking good pictures. I do my own framing and am beginning to sell quite alot of my photos in local art galleries. I am also taking classaes in Photoshop 7. The film scanning is making me nuts. I have a Minolta 5400 and just can't seem to get the right color profile. The folks at Minolta have been nice, but not very helpful.

I have read about programs such as Vue scan and Silverfast. I understand these prograns are very good. Would this make the scanning proscess less frustrating?

I enjoy taking photographs and if I can make some money at the same time, that's great too, I guess I'm just getting old but what used to be very simple and FUN is now very complicated and confussing.

I hope this is the correct forum for my post.

Right now I am a 35mm photographer. I am disgusted with film

scanning and trying to find correct color profiles, with

tempermental film, different results from different labs ect. ect.

Digital phptography seems so easy. Can anyone give me one good

reason why I should not join the rest of the civilized world and

switch to digital instead of sticking with 35mm film and all the

problems that accompny it.

Ivan, I am very frustrated with this Minolta 5400 film scanner also. I have spent way too much time trying to get the correct color prifile. I don't know about you but I don't think Minolta's tech support is very helpful. Had I known scanning film was going to be this much trouble I would have taken the money I had saved for the film scanner and put it towards a digital camera. I have tried the 5400n setting and like you, no better result. I ahve tried 8 bit and 16 bit and both look like junk.

I do not think it is a monitor problem baceuse I have a cheep little digital camera that I can plug directly into the computer and the color on the monitor and the printer match the photo perfectly.

At this point I am stumped. This scanner is of no use to me, a big wast of time and money. I went to the website that Gilles recomended

and asked them to e mail me a color profife based on the film I use. Fuji NPS 160. So I will hopefully hear from them soon and try what they suggest. The folks at eithervizion.com/lost_found/also recomend purchasing a color scanner calibration target. More money.

At this point, unless someone can give me a great reason why 35mm is soooo much better than digital, I'm going to sell all this 35mm stuff and, like the rest of the civilized world, go digital.If you have any luck please let me know.

Thank You Gilles and everyone for the advice. I am loosing my mind fast with this scanner-color issue. My printer prints the imiage with the exact color I see on my monitor. Great, except the Hawaiian girl has brown skin and a brown skirt not light purple skin and skirt. I spent hours, days fooling wuth this. Tommorow I will download the ICM profiles that you suggested. I use Fuji NPS 160 film. Thank you again.

Robert,

thanks, I will try that in a little while. I am sure it has to do with the settings in the scanner because the printer prints exactly what I see on the monitor.

I am about to lose the little mind I have left. I need advice. When

I scan a neg using the 5400 recomended setting for an 8 x 10 ( or

any size )print the colors I am seeing on my Dell Monitor are way

off from what the actual print I get back from the photolab where I

get my negs developed. I tried adjusting everything and think I am

making it worse. I called Minolta and honestly they were not much

help. I called Dell and did what they told me and nothing has

changed. Can someone PLEASE recomend a way to calibrate all this

stuff of walk me through the corect setting. Are there color

calibration programs available either to download or to buy? Get me

on the right track and I will buy you a beer or 10 next time you

visit Hawaii. Thanks and Aloha, Bill.

Josef, yes I can bracket with my elan7E, I will give it a try, also I just purchsed a Minolta 5400 film scanner and Photoshop 7 so I am hoping that once I get a little more professient with these programs I should be able to fix my negatives.