steve_yeatts

<p>This is the first time I've used my Epson Printer on my Mac. When I print, I can't enable the Epson printer driver -- there are no paper types, no color adjustments, etc. I only see the PSE9 print utility which is worthless. Any help on how to get my good old Epson dialog boxes back? Thank you.</p>

<p>Also, I've had good luck with MIS replacement inks, although I haven't purchased any in a while. And if you're a high-volume printer, a continuous inking system may fit your needs. You'll save a sizeable sum in the long run.</p>

I bought a lens from him more than a year ago. He actually sent me a lens destined for someone else, a rather more expensive lens than the one I bought. I contacted him about it. He was not at all prompt in responding and didn't seem real concerned about the mix-up, but he finally did straighten it out.

 

Steve

Viday, IMHO, you should forget Dell and really build it yourself. It's not difficult at all. If you can wire up a stereo system, you should have no trouble. You will get complete freedom to get exactly the complement of features that are important to you. What it will involve is some research on your part to find the parts that meet your needs, but once you get them all, they pretty much just plug together. Building your own can be a little more expensive than buying a mass-produced PC, but you'll probably save money in the long run due to it's greater expandability and upgradeability.

 

Cheers and good luck!

 

Steve

I'll second the endorsement for the Maxwell screen. In my 3.5F it makes a huge difference. Plus, I find the split image with microprism collar easier to use than the matte field on the standard screen.

 

Also, check out camera-depot.com The sell bay to standard threaded adapters.

 

Steve

My last experience with KEH, over a year ago, was not positive. The item I purchased was definitely not in the advertised condition. They were unwilling to do ANYTHING other than to refund my purchase price, less shipping.

 

Chris Richards, I recently bought a Rolleiflex 3.5F. Its screen was in pretty good shape, but I replaced it with a Maxwell screen. The Maxwell is superior. But if you need a cheap screen, I'll donate mine to you. All I ask is that you send me a prepaid shipping container.

 

Steve

I second Juan's opinion. The VR is of virtually no help with macro or near macro shots, IMHO. Nor is auto focus. If you're looking for a dedicated close-up lens, the manual focus 200/f4 is still hard to beat.

 

Steve

Congrats, Benny. I'm sure you'll enjoy yours just as much as I like mine. It's even more well balanced with the MB-40 grip.

 

Steve

Have you tried adjusting the brightness via the video card driver first? I had the same problem you do, but if I crank down the brightness in my nVidia driver a little bit, I have plenty of adjustment in the LCD panel settings. I find that the video driver is more sensitive to small changes, so it's easy to over-do the adjustment. But a little trial and error should get you where you need to be. Good luck.

 

Steve

Do you already have other data stored under the 'basic' setting? If so, try deleting it and then selecting detailed.

 

Steve

Why not consider the micro nikkor 200/4 AIS manual focus lens? I recently bought a very nice one for under $400 to use on my D200 and F6. I think it is a superb lens.

Yes, the SB-28 is fully compatible with both of your bodies. I think the F100 was the last body that was completely compatible.

Does anyone have any experience with small continuous lights, such as those for

video cameras, mounted in the hotshoe of an SLR? I'd like to give this a try,

but I don't know where to start. Some of my specific questions are:

 

Will these lights mount in a hotshoe?

How do you compare the output of a hot light (in watts, lumens, etc) to a

flash's guide number?

Are there any recommended products?

 

Thanks very much.

Here's a follow up. After several calls to Nikon today, I got a return call from El Segundo. The rep told me that the 'J' screen is considered a user-replaceable item available from dealers. Therefore Nikon service doesn't stock it. But they do stock the 'B' screen, which is what I'm getting.

 

I had purchased the 'J' from B&H, and that's the one I scratched. I figured that when i sent in the camera, I should be able to specify any screen I wanted. Stupid me. So the camera should be here Wednesday. BTW, anybody need a 'B' screen :)

I would like to let off a little steam here, so I'm giving all a heads-up. I

have no way to express my displeasure with Nikon Service in any manner that

matters to them; this is the only avenue I have.

 

While trying to clean a stubborn spot somewhere in the light path, I managed to

scratch the focus screen and mirror of my F6. I sent it to Nikon Melville for

repair with a letter asking them to repair/replace parts as necessary, including

replacement of the 'J' screen. After a week with no word, I called Nikon's 800

number. When I finally reached a human being, she gave me the repair estimate,

which I paid by credit card on the spot, along with my service order number.

 

Two weeks went by with the camera in 'Estimate' status, even though I'd already

made payment. Another inquiry. The camera was on hold for a part, which was

now available. Okay, so the status changed to 'In shop'. We're making

progress. Two weeks more, still 'in shop'. Another inquiry. The camera repair

is completed, the camera is in quality control, and will be shipped soon.

On-line status changes to 'Bill'? Why bill? It's already been paid. Another

call to Nikon. The repair's complete and they don't know why it hasn't been

sent. Another call. There's no 'J' screen available, so the shop doesn't know

what to do. A call to Nikon Melville through a back door number. 'Barbara' in

Melville says that there are neither 'J' screens nor any other manual focus

screens for the F6 anywhere in Melville. I ask her why it took so long to

figure out that there were no J screens. She doesn't know. I ask her to adjust

the repair price to reflect the non-replaced screen. She can't do it --

California is in charge.

 

Does anyone at Nikon service know anything? Do they talk to each other? Can

they not provide meaningful communication with their customers? I have wasted

more than an hour, not talking to anyone, but on hold. I have been without my

camera now for more than 5 weeks. Apparently, most of this delay should have

been apparent at the outset.

 

So, what does it matter to a potential customer? Well, we've all read that

Nikon is going at full-tilt trying to meet demand for their hot products. This

is before the intro of the new D80 (or whatever it's called). Sales are way up.

But what about service? Has there been any indication whatsover that Nikon is

ramping up service capacity to correspond to these new sales? If you're like

the majority of new camera buyers, your shiny new Nikon will function without

problem, and it will die of obsolescence. But if you're in the unlucky minority

with a problem, God help you. Nikon sure won't. They're business is selling

cameras, not satisfying customers. Think twice before commiting your $

thousands to this company.

 

Thanks for letting me vent.

I'd like to find a better alternative to the Nikon screens made for the F6.

Specifically, I'l like a K screen, with both the split image and mircoprism.

Would a K screen from an older Nikon body work, assuming that the dimensions of

the screens are the same? If so, where can I find the dimensions of the screens

from various models? Thanks.

 

Steve

I've been thinking of buying an FG, just because it's small and cheap. Hold your head high, Janet. Most of the great images of the 20th century were made with cameras much less sophisticated than the FG.

I read this review today also. It occurred to me, why would it not work to take an old LF rail camera and replace the focusing screen/back with another lens board, to which is attached a lens mount from an old lens? One could use pretty much any LF lens, which should give super coverage of a 35 frame or APS-C sensor.

 

Any suggestions or comments? Thanks.

I asked the same question of this forum several months ago and got a lot of informative answers. I had owned a Tachihara, and considered stepping up to an Ebony. Subsequent to my post, I borrowed an Ebony 45SVTi from Jim and Midwest Photo Exchange. It was a work of art in its fit, finish, and functions. Is it worth 4x the Tachihara? Is a Porsche 911 worth 3x a Mustang? Some people think so, but it's an individual decision.

Have you considered a longer lens? You could probably even get away with using an existing MF lens, if you'll be in fairly static lighting. A lightmeter would help, but you can always check exposure on the screen. Also, bracket, bracket, bracket. I'm a fan of flash bracketing, especially.

 

Do you have an extra battery? Enough memory. Just a few things to consider. Good luck!

I'm looking at various MF systems, and I'm interested in the Bronica GS, mostly

due to the 6X7 format. Do the backs rotate to allow a portrait orientation like

the Mamiyas? Thanks.

I was told by Sover Wong, who specializes in F2's, that the black finish on a Nikon body is a 'silk' finish, something between gloss and flat. You can buy both flat and gloss black camera paint from Microtools, and mix them together until you get the level of sheen you want. Let us know how it goes, please.

I assume you're in TTL mode when this happens. Try it in Auto or Manual. I have this body and flash, and I seem to remember something in the Metz manual about TTL not working with the auxiliary flash and the main head rotated. I'll try this myself and see what happens.

 

Steve

I doubt the MZ-3 is compatible with iTTL cameras such as the D200. I had an MZ-4 that worked fine on my F100 but did not work on my F6. I had to get an MZ-4i flash. Unfortunately, even a module upgrade won't work. Check on the Metz website for sure and to see model is compatible. Good luck.

I was on the B&H website today and noticed that they have D200 bodies

only and kits that are $100 higher than before. For example the body

is listed at $1799. They also list the same items at the

currently-recognized prices. The higher-priced items are listed as

out-of-stock. Could this signal an impending price increase?

 

Steve