mr._b

Suction cup? It comes off that easily?

You have the option of 'hazy' looking pictures...

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=153&modelid=7308

You'll probably get by if you up the ISO to 400 or 800... depends on what 'decent lighting' means.

I just scored a nearly new Canon 30D on ebay for $630. You can find the 20D available more consistently for under $600 though.

I'd skip the 70-300mm lens and use that money to get the 70-200mm F/4 L lens. You can get a used one for the same $530.

The form factor alone is enough to turn me off to the XTi, it's far too small to be useable with any real lens.

The stock answer to this is the $1500, 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens

I recently bought a Canon 30D kit on eBay recently and I'm looking to unload my

10D body and grip. I paid aboout $400 for it back in March 07. Since then the

prices have come down considerably, probably due to the 40D introduction.

 

At the current prices it's almost not worth recovering the $250-330 I'd get for

it. My question is: Is one time of year better to sell cameras on eBay as

opposed to right now?

My 10D is my first SLR. While I wish I had the money to throw around in order to upgrade, my only real complaint is the camera's sluggish behavior. I a couple respects I think it still has advantages. It may be the quietest in Canon's dSLR lineup and the feel of the camera in your hard is superior to it's successors, in my opinion. The 20D and 30D feel too small in my hands, which aren't big. The 40D is almost as good, but I still think my 10D has the best grip.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS-1D

Thanks for the offer but I already have the F/4 version which I chose after reading dozens of F/4 vs. F/2.8 IS threads.

Thanks for answering what I know is a stupid question. If ISO200, F/4 = ISO100, F/2.8, I'll keep my $1000 and accept the longer depth of field.

I know this is a rudimentary question but I've done some searching without success.

 

I have an EF 70-200mm F4 L lens. I didn't get the f/2.8 IS version due to the

cost. Since I'm not overwhelmingly serious about photography I'm trying to talk

myself out of it.

 

My question is, at what ISO can ISO-100, F/4 match the light sensitivity of

F/2.8? I figures there would be some sort of table for this somewhere but I

haven't found it.

I've been using one of these mounts for a few months. I don't have the actual Canon mount to compare it to, but I can bring up a couple nags. First, there are no 45 degree markings, which would be nice. After a couple months use, the paint on the outer edges on the inside of the ring wears off and starts scratching the paint on the lens... so I have two rings of scratched paint on the lens itself. The other little problem is the adhesive behind the felt cloth on the inside of the ring could be better. Depending on the tension of the ring when you rotate the camera, the cloth can move over time and get a bit crunched up. This is easily fixed by pulling up the cloth (or whatever it's called, then putting it back on while pulling on the felt and pushing it back down with your thumb.

I rented this lens a couple months ago for a weekend of the New Orleans Jazz Festival, mainly for performance shooting in tents. I'm a rather pathetic excuse for a photographer and I was shocked to see how well some of my pictures came out with this lens (with Canon 10D). I only have two other lenses at present, a 70-200mm F4 L and a crap wide zoom. This was easily the fastest AF i'd experienced, even in low light.

As has been said, the feel of the camera in hand, build quality and viewfinder are the only solid advantages of the 10D. I recently bought a 10D on ebay, my first dSLR. I've only handled the 3xxD cameras in a store, and frankly they feel pretty pathetic in hand for what they cost. I can't imagine myself buying a Canon with a plastic body. I love the solid feel of the 10D. You could even argue it's superiority over it's successors, the smaller 20D and 30D.

I just made the mistake of trying to 'clean' the focusing screen on my 10D... luckily it's was only a $6.00 mistake.

I hope I'm not bumping this up for nothing, but for the record I thought it was worth posting that the part number is YN2-3164. I just tried to 'clean' mine and ended up needing to replace it. Luckily it's only a $6 mistake.

What you really need is a window seat.

Buy both if you can afford it. Like the previous poster said, you could sell the 1Ds for a cozy profit.

If you were having trouble with autofocus there could be a simple explanation, but in this case I wonder if there's something wrong with the button itself... as unlikely as that is.

...just an update on my cleaning for posterity. I opened up the camera twice and cleaned only the backside of the shutter. This only worked temporarily however. I just finished cleaning both sides of the shutter. I managed to unscrew that tightly fitted element in front of the shutter. I needed a vise-grip tool to do it though... not exactly wise but I was careful and it worked. Anyway I got both sides clean and it's working great. I'll have to hope it stays that way.

Sony Vaio laptop screens are reasonably well regarded for whatever that's worth. I have an R505 which is about two years old but it has a very sharp and bright XGA screen. Both older and newer Vaio's have fine screens.

I suspected ther must be some sort of adhesive at the end of the roll. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

I realize this is kind of a stupid question but I'm entirely new to

120 film so please bear with me. Yesterday was my first time handling

120 film, loading a ca. 1952 Mamiyaflex. When I loaded it I think the

reel may have become loose and exposed the film but I'm not sure and I

won't know until I get it developed. I loaded it onto the metal reel

that was in the camera when I recieved it, which is at least 30 years

old. Anyway I'm not sure of the proper means of unloading the film.

I suppose I can look through the little window and determine when all

the black paper is throug and everything is on the reel. When I lift

the cover is there something I need to do to be sure the film is taut?