nate_kinnee

Nice shot, great moment! Interesting that they don't have camera restrictions. Which lens did you use?

Yes, WW, you're right... good catch on the typo.

Will! Daniel gave you the correct response and then you attempted to correct him. He was not stating that 1Ds3 is a 12MP camera, but that a 1.3 crop performed on the 1Ds3 leaves you with 12 million pixels -- which is more than the 10 million pixels on the 1D3.

 

As far as I know, you can calculate for yourself this way: 21,000,000 / (1.3 * 1.3) = 14,XXX,XXX.

The (1.3 * 1.3) is because the crop must be applied both horizontally and vertically.

I think Daniel is the first to answer Will's question, as I understand it. The key is pixel density. As the 1Ds3 has higher pixel density than the 1D3, it will contain more detail when cropped to the equivalent field of view.

For indoor use, I agree with the recommendation for a Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. It sounds like the sports you're interested in are outdoor, in which case the 70-200 f/4 should be fine. If you want to shoot indoor action, you'll be much happier with an f/2.8 lens (or a faster prime).

If you haven't read it already, here's another article from photo.net that I would think is essential: http://www.photo.net/learn/concerts/mirarchi/concer_i

I didn't have any problems in Barcelona several years ago. I don't see why it would be worse there than any other big city that attracts a lot of tourists with money. I had a window of my rental car smashed (and everything stolen from the back seat) while I was inside a gas station just outside Venice.

"High res" is a vague term, and specifics obviously would have been better. But I would not begin to consider a file "high res" unless it was at least 2x the size you mentioned in each dimension, i.e. 1600x2400. That would print 8x12 at 200 dpi, and is an absolute bare minimum, IMO.

Another vote for the CP-E3. Its light weight is a big advantage over the other battery packs I've seen.

I was skeptical, but the site is not bad. No referral revenue involved, as far as I can tell. It would be better if it included links to photozone.de and to the link Matthias mentioned.

 

Thanks OP for the suggestion.

Feisol makes some nice carbon fiber tripods for less money than the comparable Gitzos. When I bought mine, and a Kirk BH-3, I'm pretty sure I came in under $500.

 

http://www.feisol.com/english/feisolen.htm

What do you mean by "this technique"? The color/tone? Or the insertion of tubes into body parts? Or anything else that might be going on in that picture?

I think there is a good opportunity to pick up both those lenses used at a good deal. For the 10-22, there are always people dumping that if they move to a full-frame camera. And the 24-105 is included in some 5D kits, so it seems like there's more of those being sold lately. Check the classifieds here, at fredmiranda.com, and at photography-on-the.net.

 

Those are two excellent lenses, and form my basic travel kit. Throw in a fast prime (such as 50 f/1.4 or f/1.8) and you have quite a bit of versatility in a small bag.

Email sent. And I also agree with Jeffrey.

I second the recommendation for 2filter.com. A basic B+W 77mm Polarizer from them is $111, and the MRC (multicoated) is $145. I own the latter and use it on my 10-22 lens.

 

http://www.2filter.com/prices/B+W_filters/B+W_Circular_Polarizers.html

 

Another good option in the same price range (but not carried by 2filter.com) is the Nikon 77mm Circular Polarizer II... in spite of the manufacturer name. :)

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00017LUOC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I agree with those who said to visit Lake Brienz...

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7222792

 

 

as well as Jungfrau...

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7222803

Canon was probably doing ok with the weak dollar, because the yen was weak for a while too, which was benefiting all Japanese exporters. Now that the yen has been somewhat revived, it's time for a price correction. Oh well... less incentive for me to keep giving them my money... at least until rebates roll around. :)

For best performance with NiMH rechargables, be sure to recharge them shortly before using them... don't charge them and then let them sit for days or weeks. Unless you have a slow-discharge battery such as the Sanyo Eneloop, in which case this is less important.

In case anyone reads this later, I did get responses when I posted the same question in the Canon EOS forum...

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00PHWr

Thanks for all the responses. I was sufficiently boldened to keep it in the pouch while using it for a wedding yesterday. I didn't notice any problems or any excessive heat.

 

Thanks,

 

Nate

I just purchased the Canon CP-E4, and read through its brief instructions. It

stated that the protective pouch should be removed before using the battery

pack. Is this because of a risk of overheating? The pouch is nice and seems like

it would be an ideal way to carry the pack while using it (ie, attaching the

pouch to a belt). Does anyone have advice or experience with this?

 

Thanks,

 

Nate

 

(I got no response when posting this in the Lighting forum, so I'm trying here...)

I just purchased the Canon CP-E4, and read through its brief instructions. It

stated that the protective pouch should be removed before using the battery

pack. Is this because of a risk of overheating? The pouch is nice and seems

like it would be an ideal way to carry the pack while using it (ie, attaching

the pouch to a belt). Does anyone have advice or experience with this?

 

Thanks,

 

Nate

Cathy,

 

Sorry I don't really have anything to add to this topic, as I'm a Canon user. :) But are you related to Kelsey?

Sorry to hear about the theft.

 

Sounds like you're looking for something like this...

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Foci-Photo-Picture-Storage/dp/B000OSG5EI/

 

I use a similar unit made called the Vosonic X'S Drive, but I'm not having much luck finding their cheaper, basic models for sale at the moment.

(Apologies to Mark Loundy for adding an "r" to his last name.)