paul_ozzello

<p>Any progress ?!</p>

<p>Thank you Q.G. for all the information, with your help I was also able to locate the accessories manual which contains an exploded view of the SWC ground glass adapter. For anyone interested:<br>

<a href="http://www.galerie-photo.com/manuels/hasselblad-manuel-accessoires.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.galerie-photo.com/manuels/hasselblad-manuel-accessoires.pdf</a><br>

<br />Paul</p>

<p>I have a later version of the ground glass adapter for Hasselblad SWC/M that I took apart after some snow got into the fresnel - I wasn't taking notes and I'm not sure which order some of the parts should go...<br>

I have the direction of glass and fresnel figured out but not the rest, how should the 4 rubber washers with 'feet' and two rubber spacers with ridges be installed ? What about the 2 spring plastic clips ?<br>

I know I know... I should send it to Hassy but I'd rather not be out of the camera for another 3 weeks (I recently sent the body in for CLA) and this seems like a pretty straightforward assembly.<br>

<br />Thanks,<br>

<br />Paul</p>

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That is a dilemma. The 24-70 is fantastic with a 5D, but the

17-55 IS is a very special lens without an EF equivalent. Image quality from both combinations is really close, but the 17-55 gives you 3 more stops hand held - and on the wide end of the lens, you can use some ridiculously slow shutter speeds wide open. If you don't do much hand held low light photography, sell the xti and get the 5D. If not, sell the 24-70, keep the xti and get the 17-55IS.

Thanks Dan. So if I understand correctly, in Photoshop, I let the printer manage color, then turn off all settings in the Canon print driver including setting "color correction" to None?

 

For fun, I tried printing from Easy-PhotoPrint and colors where much better, closer to the result from PictBridge (but not perfect).

 

Could custom printer profiles help?

Hopefully some kind sole can help me out.

 

I'm using a Canon 40D and Canon Pixma Pro9000. The only way I can print

accurate colors is via Canon's PictBridge interface. My LCD monitor is

calibrated using an Eye-One Display LT, and the images transferred from the

camera appear identical to the ones printed directly from the camera using

PictBridge (so I assume the monitor is correctly calibrated). Images in

Photoshop appear fine on screen but always pick up a color cast when printed.

I've tried all the different settings possible; Photoshop managing colors (and

disabling color management in the driver), printer managing colors (by far the

worst), Easy Photo plugin for Photoshop... I'm shooting RAW and applying Adobe

RGB as the image profile and working space, and soft-proofing using the paper

profiles (downloaded from Ilford). Unfortunately, I can't transfer images back

to my camera to print from PictBridge...

 

What am I doing wrong? Is there any way I can simulate pictbridge from my PC?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Paul

Burn in the small flare spot left of center, the remaining flare really adds to the composition.

Does anyone have any insight on how Richard Avedon lit his black and

white group portraits?

I just noticed what appear to be tiny bubbles under the silver finish

of my M6 near the cocking lever. Has this happened to anyone before?

Can the finish be 'redone'?

Yes, Please Post!

Thank you all for your help. I went out and bought some regular Crystal Archive to do a comparison. The yellow stain is not present with the new batch, so I suspect the original paper was fogged. Pretty strange for a new box of paper - I took sheets from either end, the center, and all are yellow. I hope Fuji will 'warranty' the original box. The Fujiflex is wrapped in a thin plastic coated paper, while the regular uses the more common thick black plastic.

 

Paul

The paper has been in the fridge (4.8 C) for 4 months, I mixed the chemicals the night before. <br><br>My processing:<Br><Br>

 

(temperature 94F/34.4C)<Br>

45 (s) prewash <br>

1:00 developer<Br>

30 (s) stop bath<Br>

45 (s) wash<br>

1:15 bleach-fix<Br>

3 minute wash<br><br>

 

I've tried extending both developer and bleach-fix times to 2:00, no change. Could my paper be slightly fogged? My darkroom is light tight, and I develop late at night. There used to be a Kodak guide with examples of common mistakes/problems, but I can't find it anymore, does anyone have some useful URLs with similar examples?

 

Fuji claims the paper can be kept under 10C indefinately with no adverse effects, is this realistic?

 

 

Paul

I'm having some printing problems using Fujiflex Crystal Archive

(polyester base) with Kodak chemistry. All my prints have a slight

yellow cast (3-5cc). It's not a filtration issue as the unexposed

borders have the same cast. I'm using fresh chemistry, fresh paper,

and a Jobo CPE processor. If I process an unexposed sheet without

developer (bleach-fix only), the print is pure white. The same

picture developed by a local lab using 'regular' crystal archive has

pure white borders. I'm kind of stumped.

 

Paul

Does anyone have any sample images from a SWC using a digital back?

I rented one a few weeks to use with my 28-70 2.8 L. I shot some 500 pictures, and at least 30% were out of focus. I interchanged the lens with my A2, which all came out sharp. Both cameras were set at the same iso and shutter/aperture combination. There is definately something going on with this camera, have it checked.