shane michael

Nancy,

 

There are a great number of good photographers in MN, the problem as you said is that most reside and work in the Twin Cities! I too live by DL. :)

I am using Photoshop CS and would like to know how to automate

including the filename of the image in the PDF sldeshow. Is there a

better or easier way of doing CD proofing?

 

Thanks for you help!

 

Shane

I have frequently used my 550ex on my camera with two slaved 420ex's on light stands for group photos with quite a bit of success. The nice thing about this set-up as opposed to strobes is compactness and portability. You could also buy a good Metz for a little more than another 550ex.

I have the 70-200 2.8L IS with a 1.4x TC on a 10D. I think this lens is fantastic even with the 1.4X TC and would recommend it for what you are trying to do. I would skip the 2x TC as you loose AF and two stops as well as a significant loss in picture quality. The 70-200 is a very versatile lens, albeit a bit on the heavy side.

Teresa,

 

I too shoot a 10D and found that my 70-200 L 2.8 IS is my lens of choice for rituals (unity candle, etc.) and also for environmentals. Actually this is my favorite lens. I also use my 17-40 f4, and while it slowwwww, I find it does the job.

I am a totally inexperienced amatur when it comes to having anything

to do with studio lights, however, I am interested in trying

portrait style lighting techniques. I have done a lot of

environmental portraits, and was wondering if this is a good

beginner type kit? I have a basement are with high ceilings that I

would use as a "home-studio" and shoot with a 10D. Thanks for your

input.

Can you please post a link to their new press release, thank you!

I just got the 17-40 F4L and it has so far worked flawlessly. I also have the 70-200 F2.8L IS and this is truly a great lens and have had 0 problems with either of these lenses on my 10D.

Make sure before your order a "low-cost" 10D make sure that it is not a grey market camera (imported outside of normal distribution channels). When I bought mine I checked alot of those so-called discount stores only to find out that they did not carry the Canon warrenty. Piece of mind is always worth a few extra $$$$. Look at those stores who sponsor photo.net, I have bought thousands of $$$$ worth of equipment and have never been dissappointed by either Adorama or B&H.

As a pastor and a photographer, I would have to say you have to really figure out what your motivation is on this one. You said your were a pastor in the 1960's, well I can tell you the stipend probably has not changed since then. I recieve only $125.00 to do a wedding, that includes 8 hours of in-office marriage counciling, writing a sermon, the rehersal, officiating, and spending time at the reception. I highly doubt that that would make any difference in your finacial plan.

 

To answer your primary question, I too am "photographer friendly" yet a marriage ceremony, is still a worship service first and foremost. If I can't see you (and more importantly I can not see your flash) you can do whatever you want...go up in the balcony, go on the side of the sanctuary near the chancel for a nice side-shot, but as soon as I see that a photographer (whether professional or Uncle Jim with his P&S with that annoying pre-flash and red-eye reduction lamp)is not being respectful of what is going on, I will stop and ask that no more photo's be taken for the duration of the service. 99.9% of pro's remain stealthy and know the ropes, most of the time it is family and friends of the B&G who are the ones that cause problems.

Some people have said that AWB does not work well, but in my experience, AWB does work, and it works very well. But when it gets confused, it gets really confused, and that does happen more than I would like. Now, If I am not shooting RAW, I will use either the presets (rarely) or I will do a custom WB with a white sheet of paper and MF(most of the time). I have seen ads for something called an ExpoDisc, but I do not know if that is any better than a white sheet of paper. Anybody?

After reading all of your comments and a few late nights on the computer, we have finally decided on the lenses for the 10D

1) 17-40mm F/4L USM

2) 70-200mm F/2.8L IS USM

3) 1.4 & 2.0 Telextender

4) 50mm F/1.8

I think this will cover all of my needs for the immediate future, as it seems that these are all high quality glass form all of the opinions and reviews that i have read. I can not wait to sell that EF 28-200 that the salesperson said was "the best non-L zoom Canon ever made" when I ordered the 10D. I am glad that on Photo.net that there are a variety of opinions both good and bad regarding lenses. I should have looked more carefully when I bought my camera, but I needed a lens, and i listened to just the sales pitch on the other end of the line. Thnak you for providing your honest criticism's and opinion in regard to my post. I will keep you informed of how well they work out.

Sean & Melissa, you have not added to the confusion, but you have added to my time on doing internet searches, lol. From what I have read, I am pretty convinced that the EF 17-40mm F4L USM is one lens that I am going to buy for my 10D. As far as the 100-400, I have been busy doing a lot of reading and reading of other's opinions, and I was wondering if anyone would recomend that I drop the 28-138 IS and the 100-400 and go with the 70-200mm F2.8L IS USM? my one concern is how crisp is the 70-200 with either the 1.4 or 2.0X TC? can anyone post a picture with this combo. I want the long reach for my kid's baseball and football games, but I also want the versatility of a Zoom. I realize that a 400 prime would be far better, but I like the flexibilty of composition with a zoom. Thank you for all your input--Shane

I am getting ready to purchase a few lenses for my 10D next week and the 28-135 is one of the ones I am looking at. The other two that I am thinking about are the ef 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM, and the EF 17-40mm F4 L USM. I was looking at the 28-135 to "fill the gap" between these two lenses. I realize the 28-135 is not an L, but Pop Photography showed it to have good test results at 28 and 135 for 16 x 20 prints. For 4x6 and smaller, the 28-200 is not bad, but forget trying to print 13 x 19 even after ps'ing it to death.

I forgot to mention that my goal is to make 13 x 19 prints (100% crop)on my epson 2200, so I am looking for a sharp lens and the 28-200 just doesn't fit the bill.

I currently own a Canon ef 28-200 usm 3.5-5.6 tele and am happy for

the most part with the lens but at around 200 it gets really soft

and is soft full open. Should I sell/trade this lens for a ef 28-

135 is USM? IS this a better lens than the 28-200? I have been

searching for reviews of the 28-200 to compare with the mixed

reviews of the 28-135. It seems people either really like the 28-

135 or they really hate it. what's up with this lens?

Thanks for the information, I was currious if one was a higher MaH than the other one. I will continue to keep both in my camera bag.

 

Shane

Can anyone tell me what is the difference between Canon's BP511 and

the BP512. My battery grip on my 10D says not to use the BP512, but

I have used it in the past with no apparent problem. Thanks, Shane

Thank you for your input. I looked at the Stroboframe equipment that you suggested and it looks like it works very well. I ended up getting a Custom Bracket after attending a wedding where I saw one in action. The photographer had the same camera that I have and it waw very quick and easy to use both on and off a tripod. Granted it has some heft to it compared to the stroboframe, but I really liked the quality machining and the fit and finish. The otherr thing that I liked was that it was very comfortable to hand-hold and I think would work better on my ball-head tripod. Again thank you.

I know that there is a company called the "I-R Guy" that removes IR filters from older D30, etc. but I am not sure that the 10D or even the 300D has the same type of IR filter in front of the sensor. Try a Google search.

Thank you for the input. I looked at the newton, stroboframe, and a few other websites, and I think I am going to end up going with the Stroboframe like you suggested. I have to fiqure out P.N.'s and such and also find pricing for the Newton bracket before I decide.

 

Shane

I am just starting to shoot a few weddings for friends and family

with my EOS 10D and an on-camera 550EX and a 420EX for modeling. I

am looking for a camera bracket that is tripod mountable that will

accomodate the remote switch, BG-ED3 Battery Grip, and will allow

rotation of the camera, while keeping the flash above the lens for

vertical shots. What brackets are recomended? And will the use of a

hotshoe off-camera cord be compatible with the E-TTL function?