stephengalea

<p>From all the test i have done, I am assuming its a software problem.. Will format system and install win again. On the other pc, all images are fine and remained fine..<br>

Thanks all for all your help.</p>

<p>I have tried to download images on a secondary pc. ALL images are fine including the JPG prieview.<br>

So such is something that is has not to do with the Card reader, neither the CF card..Its all up to the new pc.<br>

I have also tried to reinstall photoshop, however proplem still remained the same. Up till now, the same image that seem to be corrupted are still the same. From 300 images, its only that same image that seems corrupt, however like i stated before, this same image is fine on the other pc.<br>

Will try and reinstall windows hopefully problem will be solved, however I doubt it.<br>

Any suggestions are more then welcome.<br>

Thanks all for you time and feedback.It greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>I have tried to preview the images directly from both card readers. From around 275 Cr2 images - just 1 image was found with lines on both card readers. This should eliminate the possibilty that the card reader might be faulty and such the problem is concerned more with the 16Gb CF Kingston card.<br>

Having said so however, such only happens when using <strong>Adobe bridge.</strong> On DFP of Canon and Capture One 4 image is fine.</p>

<p>Dear all,</p>

<p>Its been around a week trying to figure out why some of my CR2 images seem to be corrupted.I cannot really see a pattern of sequential events. Today it could be 6 "corrupted" out 300 images, the next day it could be 12 from the 300. The strangest thing is that the 'corrupted" images happen at random. What was or seemed to be corrupted yesterday, today just looks fine.</p>

<p>I have downloaded the latest Camera Raw 5.3 and installed once again, however still the same problem.</p>

<p>When I view the images as thumbnails in Adobe Photoshop Bridge CS4, some of the images are seen with purple/yellow lines, however today when i opened such images in the adobe photoshop raw conversion software, I still prievewed these lines until <strong>i zoom out or else clicked on the exclamation mark</strong> ...THEN STRANGLY ENOUGH IMAGES Were SEEN FINE IN PS!</p>

<p>Having said all the above, this happens on my 2 versions of photoshop ( Win 32 and Win 64 bit - which is installed on another Windows system 64bit - same computer but separate hard drives), however when using DPP i can view and extract the images fine..</p>

<p>Is it a Camera Raw problem perhaps?<br>

I have Virus checked All drives,<br>

Did memory test 18 hrs - ALL FINE<br>

Checked Drives for any bad sectors - ALL FINE.. - TOTAL 5 disks ( 3HDisk Raid 3 + 2 mirror drives for images - systems are on separate drives)<br>

I have even formatted my raid 3 disks, just in case.</p>

<p><strong>VIMP</strong> - I did notice a change in file size from the original size found on the CF card. Example if the raw file was 26.6 Mb, when I see such lines ( CORRUPT IMAGE) file size would around 0.2 MB less. Reading was from same hard drive.<br>

Honestly guys, Im lost...I had one of my drives in the raid 3 not working prop around 2 wks ago, however I am assuming it was a loose sata cable, as now they seem fine. Problem happens on all 5 drives.<br>

Any help or feedback is more then welcome........... THx</p>

<p>Thanks all for the info submitted..and sorry for my late reply...<br>

Problem mysteriously solved - something must have happened that day, which i cannot explain - could be eighter i did not insert card properly perhaps, which i doubt it. Afterwards I have tried another usb card reader and worked fine.. Removed card and tried the first card reader again, and I have been able to see and retrieve the CR2 images...it does sounds crazy, and honestly I would like to know wht exactly was the cause....<br>

THANKS ONCE AGAIN FOR YOUR TIME AND HELP</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Recently I purchased the Canon 5DMk2, and after making settings to save images in Raw + Jpg Large, camera does not register the raw files on CF card. Having said this, camera does in fact save eighter Raw or jpeg only, not both.<br>

I did try to replace CF cards, however problem still remained the same. Jpeg saved at 72 dpi when Raw + L Jpg setting is enabled. Firmware was standard 1.07, that came with camera installed.</p>

<p>Kindly did any of you encounted such problem? Is it a firmware issue ?<br>

Any feedback is most welcome.<br>

Thanks</p>

Thanks for your answers....I bought them more then a year ago, to which now I cannot have a refund back for my

money..I simply need to invest in pocket wizards..

GeorgS - I will try my best...but first I think I will try and buy the pocket wizard as replacement, cause I do

need something to work with. Thx for your feedback once again.

Should I buy the pocket Wizard, I need a set of 2 just the same? Sorry this may be a stupid question, however her

in Malta we do not have these available and have to ship from abroad.

Thanks

Thanks for your answers....I bought them more then a year ago, to which now I cannot have a refund back for my money..I simply need to invest in pocket wizards..

GeorgS - I will try my best...but first I think I will try and buy the pocket wizard as replacement, cause I do need something to work with. Thx for your feedback once again.

Basically I have been using Bowens Pulsur triggering system to fire off my Bowens Quad pack and also the Bowens

monolights for these couple of months. (I have 2 in all - one set on receiver and other transmitting attached to

the hotshoe of my 30D)

During photoshoots in studio the Pulsur triggering devices do not work efficiently. Sometimes they misfire the

flash monolights when pressing the shutter button. There is not a sequence to such issue, in fact it happens at

random. During each photo shoot both indoors and outdoors (especially in tight space locations) from around 100

exposures, I would have around 10 of them underexposed..actually badly underexposed, since flash did not fire. It

happens with both the pack and also with all my monolights. When the Pulsur does not trigger the flash, i simple

touch (move gently) the one attached to my hot shoe and I can continue working.

I tried to replace recharged batteries, tried to replace cable but problems still present and even clean contacts.

Have anybody encountered such problem with the Bowens Pulsur Trigger System? Working the tight spaces, would

eventually affect the radio frequency of the triggers? Would one assume that they are faulty? Having a wireless

internet connection in studio might affect the devices?

Having said all the above, I might opt for the Pocket Wizard, as many photographers seem to work with them,

however this is the last resort as they do not come cheap.

Any feedback or help is more then welcome.

Thanks for your time and help.

Thanks for the feedback you have provided...its greatly appreciated...

Howard M - I have tried Manual however system still did not work... Buy trail and error, I was covering the ST-E2 with my hands whilst triggering the camera shutter and was able to eliminate temporarily the pre-flash.

Having said so, however do you know of any equipment which I could purchase to make system more reliable when working ?

Magic-eye on Bowens ---- sorry but I have not understood you..please could u explain..... what is it?

Mark - I have went through the last link, and will be trying out covering the contacts and see how it goes...

Are there any other lighting systems for such tight places... i mean u may know or have experience with ? (when in need of a small light source preferable flash) ... i mean something i could purchase, which make system more reliable perhaps?

Will go through the other very soon, however I wanted to reply and say thanks before going any further..

Thanks once again for your time and help all of you.

Recently I have been working using Bowens (750 W) monolights outdoors and on location, however sometimes I

require a smaller light sources to fit in tight spaces, in which the monolights would not fit in.

I tried to create such setup using the monolights, a Canon 580 Flash and the Canon wireless trigger ST-E2. My aim

was to trigger the flash using the ST-E2 and also the bowens using sync cable, however setup did not work out.

Canon Flash triggered and even the bowens monolights triggered, however the flash output from the monolights did

not register in camera. To me it seems that there is a delay between the synchronization of both light sources.

Could this be and why? Is there an alternative?

Was shooting manual mode in camera. Canon flash was set to slave manual mode.

Camera settings F11 and 1/200 Sec

EQUIPMENT - Bowens Monolights Espirit 750 Watts/sec + 2 Canon Speedlights + ST-E2 Infrared transmitter.

My question is - Can I capture such setup shots using manual mode, having 2 monolights and a canon 580 firing

together at the same instant?

Would you recommend other equipment or techniques?

Thx for your responses...

I will check out on the mattews stands..

Thx once again

Currently, I am on my way building a studio and I would like to buy

3 heads + pack or 2....DECIDING between the BOWENS QUADX AND THE

PROFOTO ACUTE 2 Packs, as basically they are about the same price

more or less..

My questions is first... DO any of you have experience with such

packs and if yes, how did you find them?

Other then this, I need to fire all heads with a wireless setup -

wht do you recomend between Pocketwizard and Pulsur?

Will I have to connect heads to there packs ONLY and Flash will fire

by using 2 of the pulsur..one attached to camera and other to head

or pack?

IS THE ABOVE CORRECT?

In addition, i am opting more for the bowens QUADX PACK, however i

need to buy 3 durable and heavy duty stands , moreover 2 arms/booms

which could hold the FLASHhead + a coupled large soft box...

(http://www.bowens.co.uk/quadx.php)

Wht would you recommend as stands arms etc for a studio space of

20 by 13.5 and 8 Feet Ceiling...( I know 8Foot ceiling is a minimum)

Wht other accesories do you suggest and think i could find useful in

such a studio?

WHT ARE YOUR RECOMENDATIONS AS LOCALLY I CANNOT VIEW SUCH EQUIPMENT..

THX in ADVANCE...

I have cleaned sensor and image improved much more... i really thank you for your wonderful support...

I also reshot some shots on other subjects and images came great...

Posted some recently...

Lately i was finding that my images are more soft then usuall. All

setting remained the same, sharpness +2, Shot from f2.8 - f16 with

approx the same result....Using canon Macro, 24-70f2.8 canon Lens.

Lenses were free from dust.

Does anybody have this sort of problem or past experience?

Probaly the sensors got dirty?

Thx in advance...while i wait for a reply in anticipation.<div></div>

sorry, but if i understood correctly I could use all 3 flashes together if i buy another 2 flashes 550Ex or 580Ex and the ST-E2.

Thx for your responce and time, i greatly appreciate.

I currently own a 550 ex flash, toghether with an EOS 10D. My

intentions are to be able to photograph objects and items where

motion is involved. With one direct flash (front lighting) and a

diffuser, hard shadow s are formed. I want to produce clean and well

lite photographs.

I was considering eigher 2 other 550EX flashes and the ST-E2

Transmitter or 2 other 580EX flashes and the ST-E2 Transmitter.

In all i would have a 550EX flash and other 2 580 Flashes.

Kindly could anyone help me out as im in doubt about wht to buy....MY

QUERRIES ARE -

1. Could i trigger the other 2 550/580Ex flashes with the 550EX

flash on camera? (3 flashes in all)

2. By varing position and ratio for the slave fashes, i could use

the above setup for portraits? DO i have sufficient power?

3. Would anyone suggest that i buy another 2 550Ex (SLAVE)Flashes

together with the ST-E2 Transmitter in order to have a uniform setup

and WHY?

Wht other accesories one might consider?

I thank all in advance for your precious feedback...

I currently own a CANON 10D + 550ex Flash with Omni bounce diffuser.

I want to create a multiple flash setup having backlighting,

diffused light and side lighting. Since locally I cannot view nor

buy any flashes, being 100% sure on the below setup is of at most

importance to me. Keep in mind that I am relatively new to strobes

and artificial lighting.

I have browsed through various flashes, slaves etc and I was going

to buy the following:

? 2 Vivitar 285 flashes to mount onto a Photoflex Umbrella Kit

which Includes: 2 - 45" Umbrellas, 2 - 8' Light Stands & Case +

Multiclamp with Shoe Mount for Umbrella.

? SL-2 Remote Flash Trigger which I could use for background

light.

My intentions are to be able to have a relatively low cost light

setup, where I could freeze motion in still life setups, also being

portable to be able to photograph portraits 1-2 persons on location

at ones home.

Can I opt for this setup instead of buying another 550ex + ST-E2

Transmitter Kit and Umbrella and Stand accessories? The Vivitar 285

is to be triggered via a burst of light? Is it remote?

If the above mentioned setup is fine do I need other accessories to

have a complete setup? Could I buy a soft box instead of an

umbrella? Will the power from the Vivitar using umbrella or soft box

is sufficient for a full length portrait?

I know that that wht I mentioned may be relatively complicated.

Kindly, could any one having Vivitar Flashes explain a simple setup?

If the above is not possible what is the best recommendation for my

intentions?

THX IN ADVANCE

Thx for all your inputs...I own a CANON 10D so i cannot perform a double exposure..

Will try something though i the next comming days..THX ONCE AGAIN

I have been using a custom made light box with consits of a daylight

tube and pespex. I mainly use it for glass photography.Also i have

one Canon 550Ex Flash. I new in the area!

I want to create a still life which consists of some movement. I

want to insert a toy into the photograph. I need to create a sense

of speed, movement. Since using small appertures and relativly low

shutter speeds due to lack of light + tube light flactuations, do

you think i could get a correct exposure + freeze the moving toy

just buy using one flash? Do i need maybe a slave or two?

Wht are your suggestions?

Also when using flash sometimes unwanted highlight appear onto the

object. Does one suggesting bouncing the flash? If not wht could be

done? Direct flash will produce unwanted shadows.

A BIG THX in advance<div></div>

Thx for all the responces... DO you think the sigma and other 3rd party lenses remain compatible with future digital camera bodies?

Lets say i opt for the 20D..will the sigma 12-24 be compatible?

At the moment i own a canon Eos 10D body. I need a really wide angle

lens... i was opting for the fisheye lens, since i have a 1.6x crop

factor.

Does anyone consider this option to be a good option to shoot

landscapeS with the 10d? do YOU CONSIDER OTHER LENSES?

I own a 24-70 f2.8L lens but on my 10d it is almost a 38/39mm focal

length..ie not that wide..

WHt do you suggest...A fish eye, a 14 or 16mm lens? Can i screw on

hitech filters with the fish eye? Wht accesories do i need?

i have a cokin 77mm holder kit + filters.

KIndly can anyone help me out since i am new to these items and

localy i do not have the opportunity to view the above items in

person.

Thx