kenneth_seidman

<p>Yes, guidelines/masks are shown.<br>

Refer to the Canon Instruction Manual which you can download from Canon website, see page 155:<br>

Instruction Manual - eos5ds-5dsr-im-en.pdf</p>

 

<p>Cold boot to computer, all is working again.</p>

<p>Jim,<br>

Yes the Play Button is grayed out for all my actions.<br>

I was able to make a new action. The Record button works and I created a new action. I can successfully run this new action as the Play Button is not grayed out and can be clicked to start the new action. All other actions not working.<br>

Ken</p>

 

<p>The Photoshop Actions Play Button has suddenly become inactive, i.e. regardless of which Action I now select the Play Button remains unclickable/unselectable. A circle with bar appears when I hover over the Play Button.<br /> <br /> <br /> This happened at some point while I was editing an Image in CS3 (Windows XP SP2). I had just run one (of many Actions) I have successfully. After performing some others editing I came back to run the Action. Neither it or any of my Actions could be invoked.<br>

I have tried several different images, I am sure I have highlighted the background layer when I try any of the Actions. I have restarted Photoshop, and I have rebooted my computer. I have done several web searches and seen a few other posts about this problem but no solutions were suggested. So far have been unable to find a solution.<br /> <br /> <br /> Thanks in advance,<br /> <br /> Ken</p>

 

<p>OK, this just happened to me (CS3, Windows XP SP2) !<br>

I have rebooted my computer, tried different images, tried different actions. I have found a few other posts elsewhere on this topic but nobody had a solution<br>

Any ideas?<br>

Ken</p>

<p>I've been using a Minolta MultiPro to scan my 6x7 transparencies and 100 TMax film. I recently experimented with oil-immersion (wet scanning) because I was interested in the scanscience kit for the MultiPro.<br>

You can check out my results at:<br>

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/multipro/message/3187<br>

Short summary... I was NOT impressed with the results of my oil immersion experiment with the B/W TMAX image I processed.<br>

Ken</p>

 

 

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=3995956">Mauro Franic</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" title="Frequent poster" /> </a> , Jul 07, 2009; 04:16 p.m.<br>

Michael, you will get much smoother grain and sharper negs from TMX 100 on Xtol 1:1 than on TMAX dev. If you already like the results from TMAX dev your are in for a treat with XTOL.<br>

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>

Mauro,<br>

I believe part of the perceived sharpness improvement with XTOL in your posted comparison is due to increased contrast you obtained vs. the TMX developer image. Any further insights based on other comparisons you've made or examination of the original negatives would be useful to me as I currently use TMAX Developer and the Zone System.<br>

Regardless of the differences in sharpness/contrast the smoother XTOL developer grain is motivating me to consider switching. That's a big deal for me because I would have to re-calibrate my EI and Zone System development times and temperatures. If you use the Zone System do you have any suggestions for times, temperatures, dilutions, and agitation method for development for N-1, N, N+1, N+2?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Ken</p>

 

 

<p>More discussion can be found at:<br>

http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=33336<br>

Ken</p>

I'd suggest you consider Garden of the Gods

 

http://www.gardenofthegods.com/

 

Ken

I've combined two scanned 6x7 transparencies for digital blending or HDRI into one file 'successfully' in the 4 or 5 cases I've tried so far. Photshop CS3 often needs help by using the Free Transform tool to rotate manually. Photomatrix 3.0 also had alignment problems. I found it pays to try very hard to get the film in the scanner the same each time ... especially try to avoid rotations (even 0.1 or 0.2 deg can hurt). In areas that are out of alignment after your best efforts to align scans you can use the clone tool to fix them up, at least in the cases I've worked on.

A post above referred to the possibility that the 3GB switch may only work with XP Pro. I think that may have been the case years ago, perhaps before Service Pack 1 or 2? There are old posts around that insist the switch will not work with XP Home... ignore them!. I have been successfully using the 3GB switch for over a year on a Dell computer running XP Home.

 

Ken

On several occasions and with various landscape images I thought HDR was going to be the solution for me. I've have CS3 and the newest Photomatrix HDR trial version.

 

What I keep finding is that the HDR produced images often provide unexpected possibilities (visualizations) for how I might want my final print to look. However, it seems to always work out that no matter how hard I tune the controls there is something I don't like about the HDR image and I can't control. So, what I do instead is use digital blending in Photoshop, sometimes with Luminosity Layer masks and contrast and brush controls on the layer masks for the different image exposures. For me this provides complete control. I don't end up trying to alter HDR effects I don't like (and can't eliminate) by post processing in Photoshop.

 

Bottom line, I use HDR (Photomatrix trial version is free !) only as a guide to get me started with some creative ideas for my landscape images. The real work and fun begins by using digital blending techniques with Photoshop which for me offers complete control.

I did use QTR for B/W with my Epson 4000, it worked pretty well but I was not completely happy with the color casts. You can read up about ways to customize QTR (which I did not pursue) at:

 

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/

 

I always use the Epson 7800 (4800, etc) Advanced Black and White (ABW) mode now. I think it is great. You have very fine control over the degree of neutrality in the print, easy to make it cooler or warmer in precise steps. The tonal linearity is also great. The ABW driver has setting such as Darker, Dark, Ligher... which allow very fine control of shadow and highlight detail.

 

If you want to do B/W, and or print on glossy or luster paper and your budget will allow it don't bother with the Epson 4000.

 

Ken

I owned and used an Epson 4000 for both B/W and color printing on glossy and luster papers. About 2 years ago I sold it for an Epson 7800, which I believe would be quite similar to a 4800, 4880 or 3800. If you plan on printing on either glossy or luster papers I would not recommend the 4000. It suffered from bronzing and gloss differential. With the newer K3 inks bronzing is eliminated and, as I recall reduced gloss differential.

I've been using Premier Art Print Shield on Epson glossy and also luster papers. Art Shield also gets rid of all traces of gloss differential. It is easier to apply a good smooth coating to luster papers than glossy papers. It does have a strong odor however and I always wear a protective filtered mask.

Ken

I use 2-stop soft, 2-stop hard AND a 1-stop soft. I find the 1-stop soft does come in useful, either by itself, of stacked with either of the 2-stops to create a 3-stop.

 

Ken

You should probably check out the Delorme Earthmate PN-20. It has been out now for a year and I'm very happy with mine.

 

http://www.delorme.com/

 

The maps are great (everyone seems to agree they are better than the Garmin maps but I have no direct experience with the Garmin units). I bought the PN-20 specifically for my trip to North Coyote Buttes (The Wave) a few months ago. It worked perfectly for guiding me out at night (no moon). Delorme Tech Support is great. Check out the Earthmate PN-20 forum. There are some posts within the last few months comparing the Garmin C60SX to the Delorme Earthmate PN-20 by users with experience with both...pros and cons are well represented.

 

Good Luck,

Ken

I don't know your application but I use a Pentax 67II and have found it difficult to focus in dim light... most recently in slot canyons in Utah. A possible solution (if this does relate to your problem) may be to use a laser tape measure to determine distances accurately and then adjust focus and DOF accordingly.

 

Ken

Darlene,

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Ken

It's been about a year since I last shot Velvia 100 in my Pentax 67II (i.e. the

newer model). Velvia 100 has two start marks on the film paper leader and I am

no longer sure which is the correct one to use. The first marking is a dotted

line labeled B I think, the other is a solid line labeled A.

 

Are you supposed to align the first, dotted line or the second, solid line with

the down arrow on the camera?

 

 

Another topic -

Any remarks on Velvia 100 (not 100F) compared to Velvia 50 (released this summer)?

 

Fuji spec sheet indicates higher resolution but also higher granularity for the

new 120 format Velvia 50 compared to Velvia 100. Not sure how the color

saturation or dynamic range compares.

 

Thanks,

Ken

For this paper I have had excellent success using the same setting as I use for Epson Premium Glossy Photo Paper (w/ABW mode on an Epson 7800). Not near my computer, but the paper type to choose is pretty obvious ["Premium Glossy Photo Paper" as I recall ?).

 

Comparison of images printed on the Epson paper vs. Harman Gloss FB AI look very similar, same contrast, tonal range, D-Max as far as I can tell. The Epson paper is glossier and this bothers some people. The Harman paper does have a very similar look as my traditional wet darkroom Ilford Multigrade Fiber prints.

Peter,

 

It's been several years since I stopped printing Ilforchrome (I now scan my 6x7 transparencies and print digital) but I do remember a few things (I printed Ciba and also Kodak Radiance for many years)]

 

For most images you will need to make a mask to reduce contrast (as mentioned in the previous post). I had good success using 100 TMAX film for the mask which is sandwiched with the transparency when printing. I suggest you use Permawash during the film rinse process to remove the films magenta cast completely.

 

There is a section in Ctein's book Post Exposure (2-nd Edition, pg. 107-109) that talks about masking slides. I think it will prove worthwhile reading.

 

Once you learn how to make B/W contrast reducing masking it becomes pretty simple, you can make quite a few in one day for many images.

 

I suspect the biggest PITA will be dust. I used to spend 15-20 minutes trying to get the dust off all the surfaces, two glass plates to hold the 6x7 film flat in the enlarger, the slide surfaces, and the mask surfaces... but as I said, for many images this is going to be necessary if you want the best results.

 

Good luck,

Ken

Michael,

 

Here is the reference document that will help you:

Adobe Tech Note kb400919

 

http://kb.adobe.com/selfservice/viewContent.do?externalId=kb400919&sliceId=2

 

First try Step 4. The Tech Note will tell you exactly where to find the Preference (*.psp) file that you should rename.

Then you start up Photoshop and go into Edit/Preferences. Set it up with Memory, etc. like it was before you 'lost' all your preferences which is caused by renaming the *.psp file. Re-start Photoshop. Then retry the liquify command.

 

If this still doesn't work then go to Step 11 in the Tech Note. That's what worked for me. If step 11 works you may not have to always use the newly created user account (I didn't). Try copying the Preferences file to your old account and see if Liquify works again.

 

You could try cutting the Cache Levels way down to 1 or 2 and the History States down to 5 or 10, at least as an experiment. I don't think you need to restart Photoshop for these to take effect but I am not sure. I would be surprized if this makes a difference since you had everything working under CS2 but it only take a minute to try.

 

There are other suggestions in Tech Note kb400919 if none of this works. I would try Steps 8, 5, 12 (in that order) next.

 

Ken

Michael,

 

I assume you meant you are using the /3gb switch in the boot.ini?That should provide CS3 with about 2.5 to 2.6 GB of RAM... right?

 

Have you tried altering the percent of RAM allocated to Photoshop.

 

Your should try values in the range 40% to 80%, step through in 5% or 10% increments, restarting Photoshop after each change. I have found some CS3 commands (e.g. Auto Align on two 350 MB files) works at 75% but not much higher).

 

Another thing to try which is pretty esoteric (but documented the the Adobe Tech Note on "Optimizing Photoshop CS3..." (not sure of the title)) is to set up a new user account, create a new set of Preferences (which will create a new *.psp file) and try again in the new account. This worked for me (with an out of memory problem using Auto Align). The old Preferences file was corrupted. I was able to copy the new user account Preferences file to the original user account and that worked too. Now I keep a backup copy of the .psp file in both accounts.

 

I've got a few more suggestions but try those out, let us know if it works,

 

Good Luck,

Ken

There are some good tutorials which will familiarize you with CS3 capabilities at:

 

http://www.russellbrown.com/tips_tech.html

 

Ken