mag_miksch
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Posts posted by mag_miksch
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better than DSLR with brite screens optimized for slow AF lenses
indeed?
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you need the proper back too
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I think if such a thing existed, everyone would have one!
hehe^^
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and have them scanned
this may be a weak point, is it drum or flatbed?
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additional Con: camera uses Bayer, scanner doesn`t ^^
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you dont see a difference between the videos?
You start with open shutter, why?
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... I submitted jpg images of 300 dpi, long edge size 8256 pix which aren't big enough. ...
Who told you they aren`t big enough?
Printshops run rip-software to bring images to needed size, so maybe there was someone with little knowledge between you and the printshop, if so, contact the printshop directly and ask what to do.
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I´m not that fan of VR, just a lot of additional parts which can break, for short lenses I dont need it, for longer I bring the monopod.
This said, the Sigma Art 35 will be hard to beat.
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The Mamiya Six "Automat" folder has film advance stop as well as a red window. It has a coupled rangefinder and auto shutter cocking as you wind the film
http://collectiblend.com/Cameras/images/Mamiya-Mamiya-6-Automat-2.jpg
Generally they are not cheap so it might be outside your budget but well worth it if you get one in good condition in every respect. The bellows need to be light tight and the slide-in film plate included with the camera
Someone has some experience with this babies?
I find this focus thing fascinating, Contax tried similar to AF manual lenses
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F6 isnt a real one digit F as it lacks changeable viewfinders,
F100 was known as poor mans F5
so if you want the real thing go with F5^^
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sorry to hear this,
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and whats new about the back?
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......So my question: could this be something I am doing wrong?....
Dont titanic, most of us need some time to get used to a camera like this so I dont think its broken.
I dont know if its a good idea to try out just with the paper, the thickness without film is different, and maybe something slips; and btw, is the back set to 120 and not 220?
And what I understand, the crank on the back is just thought to load the back and set it to 1, so just do so, cock the shutter with crank on the body and after that you attach the back.
And check if the multi- exposure lever is really clicked in the right position.
Have fun^^
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It's an old thread, but the question is still currently debated.
I dont remember exactly, bur wasnt there a word about dead horses?
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look for eg. Yongnuo
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Everything on eBay with two lenses and a functioning shutter has a $350 ask now.
C330 has allways been about this^^
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Alternatives would be the Mamiya RB67 (mechanical
unbreakable, workhorse for the pros for decades
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with the big mirror slap - like a Hassy/Bronica/Mamiya's 67/Pentax67
Mamiya RB67 has the best mirror damping ever^^
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I take a set of images with different degrees of filter rotation and combine into what I like later.
dont get the point, different degrees of rotation just make the polarizer work more or less.
Its very easy to understand a polarizer, just hold it in front of one of your eyes and turn it, if nothing changes you are outside the proper angle between looking direction and light direction, ^^
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Welcome on board
Martin
(Balkan Northwest)
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The reason for that is the leaks are in the same position along the film in both horizontal and vertical photos presented here.
+1
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Having just developed my fourth roll from my Hasselblad 500c/m since its full service, I keep finding myself comparing the images with those from my old Bronica SQ-A and I can't help but think that those images were just better, mostly the fact they are pin sharp - something I'm not feeling so much with the Hassie. I've dreamed of owning a Hasselblad since starting out in film photography, so I'm having mixed feelings on whether I did the right thing 'upgrading'. Anyone else had similar experiences?
you have been younger
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Truth be told, though, there are very few BAD MF lenses from the major makers.
+1
this 6x7 stuff was made for pros, each lense costing lot of $,
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Mamiya C330 Special Selection
in Medium Format
Posted