larry_yungk

<p>Thanks. Having the right term helps tremendously! While it seemed easy to load, I wondered how they worked in the long run. It seems like agitation could cause the film to slip from the apron and/or scratch.</p>

<p>I recently was shown a different type of reel for developing 120 film. It is essentially a plastic strip with fluted edges that looks like a long piece of lasagna. The film is essentially laying on this and then it is wound up, and placed in the tank. The fluted edges apparently allow flow of the chemistry. It seemed to work quite easily compared to threading plastic or steel reels. The woman using this called who teaches photography called it a "macaroni" reel, swears by them, but says they aren't made any more. I couldn't find any reference on the internet, but maybe I am calling them the wrong name. Anyone have experience with these and if so where can you find them (if they're worth finding)?</p>

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<p>I have had this problem with two Voigtlander Bessa - Ls. The first was a new-in-box body in which the film slipped every 2nd or 3rd frame. I was able to return it. I bought a second used one from KEH (to use the wide angle 15mm lens which is great) and the first 24 exposure roll was fine. The second roll had problems however. More or less it stopped at about the 32nd frame (luckily it created a quite good and usable triple exposure). Rest of the shots on the roll were quite good. .<br>

It seems to me a cam slipped during the advance. I have a feeling it is linked to being at the end of the roll for some reason more tension than the advance can handle. Roll number 2 was old film I'd had in the freezer for ages and had a lot of curl to it. The first roll was also old, but only 24 exposures. Going to try again with new 36 film and see what happens. </p>

<p>Thanks. I think the lack of the AH coating made a big difference since I have not had a problem with other IR film. I use a Zone IV safe light that bounces off the ceiling so at least it was not a bare bulb burning down or I probably would have ruined more.</p>

<p>You're right, I meant the camera meters behind the filter, and it seems to be pretty accurate with the IR filter. Happily I could take most everything at 1/15 or 1/30th with F 5.6. So handheld was possible.<br>

I suspect you are right on the safelight, but there are a few comments on other boards disparaging the need to load and unload in total darkness (and the package itself says load and unload in "subdued" light). I will run another roll soon and be scrupulous on doing it all in the dark. The only other place it could happen was in manufacturing. Normally I would dismiss that totally, but I did have a roll of Efke recently that they forgot to put the bottom cap on the canister! So accidents happen.</p>

<p>I just shot a roll of Efke IR 820 Aura my first time with the Aura. When I processed the film, it came out great except I clearly had light leak that marred about half of the first dozen pictures on the roll. Judging by the pattern, it appears to have leaked in when the film was wound as the dark bars match up in diminish distance (i.e. as if wound.) The dark bar decreases so that by frame 14 its totally gone.<br>

I used an old Canonet Q17 as it meters through the lens, is easy to load in dark, and I've used it before with a couple other rolls of IR (Kodak and Efke 820 not Aura) and no problem. This was the first time using the Aura. I refoamed the camera's light seals awhile ago so normally it's light tight. I loaded the IR in total darkness (in my darkroom). I rewound it immediately after taking the last picture. I took out of my camera under a safelight and stored in a canister overnight. I processed it the next day. I unloaded from the canister in my dark room and of course did all of the opening and loading on the spool in the dark.<br>

I will say, I was out on exceedingly bright and hot day with the camera being in sun for 2 hours. I figure if it was a light leak in the camera, though the most affected should have been the last frames, not the first since they would be closest to the body and not protected by outer film. But the problem is the opposite, the first frames are blasted. So that leaves light leak coming in through the felt when it was in the canister, but I find it hard to believe a safelight on briefly on at the end could do that. <br>

Anything I am missing as possible culprit? Luckily I still have about 25 good shots despite the problem. </p>

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