ksporry

hey guys, I'm curious if anyone managed to try out the x1d with h-lenses via the xh adapter. I'm trying to decide if I should go for an x1d with adapter for my current h lenses, an x1d with native lenses (i.e. Sell the h system completely), or a h5d-50c. I know the xh adapter doesn't support AF today, but might do so in the future (risk). But I believe the sensor is the same I like the interface of the x1d a lot, and the flash sync speed is awesome, but I am not blown away by the startup/wake up time or the electronic view finder. I use my hassy predominantly for beauty/fashion/portrait, and I'm a bit spoiled by AF speed of DSLRs. thought? -- Kryn www.flickr.com/photos/ksporry

I thought the point if a calibration tool and calibration software was that I wouldn't have to manually adjust the calibration results to match a print? If I hate to do that I might as well not calibrate and adjust display settings by sight...

<p>So,I assume you are all familiar with x-rite and it's profiler software that comes with the i1 Display Pro Calibration tool?<br> Ignore the DisplayCal for a moment, why does the same software with the same calibration tool generate different effects?<br> As for what image I use, I use the x-rite profiler software. It has some images that allow you to compare before and after results. My observations remain the same as I identified before:<br> using the option for small sample of patches, medium sample of patches, and Large sample of patches, the tool generates different results. Why does it generate such significant different results when everything else (bar none) remains the same?</p>

<p>Guys,<br> So I got myself an x-rite i1DisplayPro calibration tool.<br> Although I understand the need for calibrating monitors I'm not familiar with the background science, nor do I want to be.<br> Using the i1DP did raise some questions at my end.<br> First time I ran it I just ran the basic GUI, which ran through a basic version of the calibration process. It presented me with a small patch sample, which finishes fairly quickly. The calibration had quite a pronounced effect.<br> I then decided to run it in advanced mode, selecting a Large patch sample. I was somewhat surprised to find that the result gave much more green in it.<br> Today I tried running the advanced mode using a medium patch sample. The result in colour tone seemed to be similar to the Large mode, but significantly less bright.<br> For comparison I tried running it through DisplayCal, an open source calibration software based on Argyl. This seemed to be brighter that the medium size i1DP software sample.</p> <p>Taking the DisplayCal SW as a standard:<br> 1) The i1DP software at Basic seems to be similar but slightly darker and slightly more contrasty.<br> 2) The i1DP software at Advanced Medium patch sample seems much more subdued. Much less bright, warmer and less magenta (slightly more green)<br> 3) The i1DP software at Advanced Large patch sample seems much brighter than the medium sample. It's also slightly more green than the DisplayCal</p> <p>I repeated the measurements with the x-rite software several times and its pretty consistent in the results it provides so Basic is always more magenta and bright, Medium is always more subdued and slightly greenish, and Large is always more bright and greenish.<br> Honestly I'm not sure what profile to use. I didn't expect such a big difference.<br> I was going to attached the screenshots, so you can see the difference, but obviously that won't work.<br> Any thoughts/recommendation?</p>

<p>thanks! :-)</p>

<p>Hey guys,<br> I'm pretty new at Capture One, and I ran into a snag.<br> I'm tethering my session through sessions,and C1 captures my images just fine. However, when I browse back through the captured series, C1 won't show me the latest captured image after taking a photo. It continues to show the image I browsed to. I think it's a setting somewhere,but I haven't been able to find it.<br> Can anyone help?</p>

Thanks for the many responses. I would have thought AF for 6x6 and larger would be unlikely (interesting to learn about the rollei option though!). I don't mind sacrificing AF for larger formats. I got a H4-40 already and just want something on the side to play with film, and considering the frame size of the H4 I think I won't get a 645. I used to have a Bronica S2 long time ago. Loved it, more than the hassy 500cm I replaced it with back then. But since I couldn't find any lenses for it (only had the standard 80mm) I got rid of it. I was thinking of a Bronica GS-1. Which s big and heavy, but it seems to be quite popular. Not sure that means good though, but I saw nice results if scanned Provia film online and liked it. The Pentax 6x7 SLR is also popular but seems like it's difficult to test and seems to have its quirks in usage from what I read. As a note, I'm no stranger to working slow. For a while I used 4x5 LF, but my other half couldn't stand it, so had to go. My current gf is more forgiving but won't accept LF. She'll accept film on MF though. ;) I'll check out the rollei option!

Hey guys, Recently got an A7RM2, and I have a question about it. Actually the question applies to all digital cameras. I was wondering if it's possible to get a range and/or dof indication on the display or viewfinder. Modern lenses can identify the range to the focus point. This is nothing new. Canon had it for over a decade or so. However it seems like no one actually INDICATES the range, or the associated DOF, which is a simple calculation for focal length distance and aperture. Does anyone know how to enable this on the Sony camera (or any camera for that matter)?

Contemplating a medium format camera for film. 6x6 or 6x7 format, build-in reflective light metering, and if possible auto focus. Any recommendations?

Sorry Michael but where did this become an expenditure of money issue? I'm just pointing out a behaviour if my current camera that I did not observe with any other cameras I have or had in the past. Also, when I say "a camera like this", I refer to any camera in the same category: semi pro camera in roughly (that means by approximation, not exactly) the same price category. From that perspective there are, and have been, plenty "cameras like this" The exposure bar in the viewfinder and on the top LCD flicker during low light situations. And since this is the first time in 30 years I encountered this problem I was wondering if this was a problem with my camera or of it is huw this camera works. So I am wondering if other people experienced the same behaviour with the D810.

It's an bettering question. Shouldn't be as I didn't have this problem on my D800E, and I don't have this problem on any of my other cameras. The inaccuracy explanation sounds plausible, but it shouldn't be an issue with a camera like this.

Guys, Last night I was taking pics during a night glow session at one of the temples in Kyoto. Throughout the day exposure compensation worked fine in aperture priority. However, in the evening the exposure level bar in the viewfinder and the top LCD was flickering and did not provide an exposure indication. Interestingly it did perform the exposure compensation, it just didn't indicate how much over or underexposed the reading was. Switching to manual gave me back the exposure compensation indication. This happened to me before and I think it only happens in low light. Has anyone else had the same experience?

<p>I'm surprised about how positive people are about the Tamron. I tried it out, and I didn't like it. Yes, it feels strong, sturdy and durable. "tactile" wise it feels better than the Nikon. but:<br> - The VC sucks. It lags, jumps around with a lot of "jitter" when I move it quickly from left to right (and vice versa), and doesn't transition at all from still to moving, in fact it jumps from still to full motion. I noticed this with all Tamron lenses that have VC.<br> - The optics are soft. They are also soft. And did I mention soft?<br> - vignetting. Plenty of it.<br> - AF, not that accurate, slow, and a lot of hunting<br> I used to have the 28-75, which was really good actually. But all VC lenses of Tamron were soft, slow and the VC was so annoying I switched it off all the time. I actually tried about 5 samples of the 24-70 VC model. All behaved exactly the same (hat off for consistency there). I concluded that the 24-70 is not even close to either the Nikon or Canon version of the 24-70 (obviously without VC/VR/IS).<br> The only Tamron lens I'm currently am considering is the 15-30, because that too has raving reviews. But I think I'll be comparing it with the 14-24 Nikon lens side by side when I'm in the shop...</p>

<p>I'm going to buy the 24-70, but I'm in dubio about which version to get.<br> My understanding is that AF is supposed to be much faster and CA is better with the VR version (plus you get VR).<br> Reading a comparison review at foto-info.si , the VR version supposed to be slightly better in the corners, but greater falloff.<br> When I look at the images though, the VR version does not look better in the corners, and the images with the film rolls seem to suggest that either the reviewer mis focussed, or the lens needs micro adjustment, because the old G version seems sharper to me.<br> I might be wrong, but based on my own assessment of the review, I don't think the VR version is any better, and therefore not worth the price which is almost double. However, I heard some people complained about the build quality of the original G version. Is that true? The author of the review states the build quality of the VR version is better (he actually says due to added VR, which makes no sense, as VR addition is independent of build quality). I'm not sure you can say that based on size and weight, and I think experience in the field will tell.<br> Any opinions?<br> Has anyone used both and can provide some real life feedback on it?</p>

The atlas II triggers used with that stereo jack did not trigger the H4, so it looks like it's not that straight forward. The plug I got is a perfect fit, but doesn't trigger the H4 with atlas triggers. Is it possible the H4 needs some internal setting set to "remote trigger"?

<p>Guys,</p> <p>Can anyone tell me of a suitable (and of course cheap) wireless shutter remote trigger for the Hasselblad H4D?<br> I have a set of Phottix Atlas II triggers, which I used successfully on DSLRs as a wireless shutter remote, but that didn't seem to work on the H4D. Ideally I'd like to be able to do focussing as well as remote shutter release. And yes, it needs to be wireless.<br> Any suggestions?</p>

<p>I exported a batch of 3 images at the same time. Mine wasn't temporary as I tried re-exporting several times, with the exact same result. I didn't have this problem before. I'm suspecting it may be because of a renaming in PS after editing them in PS. Basically, although the all three were edited in PS, only 2 of those got renamed (suffix "-PS") when I saved them in PS, and added them back into LR. The one that wasn't renamed exported correctly. The other two did not.</p>

<p>Question:<br> Today I tried exporting 3 files from Lightroom CC, with a rule to be rename the files "custom name - original file name". The first of the three in the batch was renamed correctly during export. The other two were not renamed in accordance with that rule. Why is that? What could cause that?<br> Note: When I hover the mouse pointer over the file in Lightroom, or select the file in LR, the original filename shows up normally, so it's not that the file is named differently. <br> Note2: The way I worked these files is: First basics in Lightroom CC, then change to PS for additional work, then get them back into LR for final touches, followed by an export.</p>

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback!

<p>Hey guys,<br> Recently I got into Digital MF, and I think I need to get recalibrated on editing software.</p> <p>So far for my 35mm DSLR work I've been using Lightroom (Currently CC), which works great. However, I got the impression that for DMF, especially the Hasselblad H series, Lightroom may not be the best option.</p> <p>I know Hasselblad comes with Phocus, and some say that to get the best out of the hasselblad files, this is the software to use, especially when it comes to lens corrections etc. Others say it's a dog.</p> <p>I also know Capture One from Phase One is a big player in the field. I hear plenty positive stories, and frankly, not really any negative stories. I got a demo and it looks really quite different from Lightroom (steep learning curve), and quite frankly, not that user friendly with many little icons and double clicks and menus and configurable layouts of windows and menus. Maybe great to adapt to one's personal taste, but also prone to user confusion I'd say. Having said that, I'm sure I can get used to it.</p> <p>The question however is, which one suits the DMF use best? Or should a combination of these be used for DMF workflow?</p> <p>If people could share their experiences with these, that'd be great!</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice guys!<br> Actually, I don't only have wide angle. I brought a 70-200 as well. I don't have a mid range zoom at the moment, though I do have a 50mm prime obviously (who doesn't?). I wanted to get the 24-105 Sigma, but that's stopped production. It's better than the Nikon 24-120.</p> <p>I got some nice pics on my trip. Didn't only go to yangshuo, but also one of the rice paddy areas. There was no water in the paddies, nor was there lush green rice, but it gave me a good opportunity to play around with my filter set and the 18-35. I actually liked the 18-35 for many of the situations. </p> <p>Was a bit annoyed when I set up a panoramic shot that one of the locals just barged into my shot and set up his tripod right in front of me, as if the mountain belonged to him alone. That's China though: Me first and F$%k everyone else.<br> Haven't finished processing them yet, but once I do I'll share a link here (It will be on flickr), so you can comment to your heart's desire :)</p> <p>PS nice shot David</p>

<p>half the price of a decent price... hmm...<br> Anyways, what back are you talking about?</p>

<p>Guys,<br />I have a Phase One P30 back, and I'd like to use that for shooting tethered. However, I would like to be able to do so without having to use the battery, and instead power the unit through the firewire cable. Phase One states that for iMacs, and Macbooks you can use the firewire to thunderbolt connection, but you need to switch the power supply to battery power to prevent connectivity issues.<br />Is it possible to use a powered firewire repeater/converter hub, like</p> <ul> <li>unibrain FireRepeater-800 Pro (<a title="" href="http://www.amazon.com/Unibrain-FireRepeater-800-FireWire-1394b-Repeater/dp/B003Y9C52U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-5&keywords=firewire+800+repeater" data-skimwords-word="http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FUnibrain-FireRepeater-800-FireWire-1394b-Repeater%2Fdp%2FB003Y9C52U%2Fref%3Dsr_1_5%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1429410028%26sr%3D8-5%26keywords%3Dfirewire%2B800%2Brepeater" data-skim-creative="500005">http://www.amazon.com/Unibrain-FireRepeater-800-FireWire-1394b-Repeater/dp/B003Y9C52U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-5&keywords=firewire+800+repeater</a>)</li> <li>Lindy 3 port Firewire 800 repeater hub (<a title="" href="http://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-FireWire-Repeater-32911/dp/B000NJM14G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-2&keywords=firewire+800+repeater" data-skimwords-word="http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FLINDY-Port-FireWire-Repeater-32911%2Fdp%2FB000NJM14G%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1429410028%26sr%3D8-2%26keywords%3Dfirewire%2B800%2Brepeater" data-skim-creative="500005">http://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-FireWire-Repeater-32911/dp/B000NJM14G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-2&keywords=firewire+800+repeater</a>)</li> <li>FireNEX-CAT5-S800 firewire to ethernet converter (<a title="" href="http://www.amazon.com/FireNEX-CAT5-S800-FireWire-Extender-Repeater-Meters/dp/B00HNF90D8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-12&keywords=firewire+800+repeater" data-skimwords-word="http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FFireNEX-CAT5-S800-FireWire-Extender-Repeater-Meters%2Fdp%2FB00HNF90D8%2Fref%3Dsr_1_12%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1429410028%26sr%3D8-12%26keywords%3Dfirewire%2B800%2Brepeater" data-skim-creative="500005">http://www.amazon.com/FireNEX-CAT5-S800-FireWire-Extender-Repeater-Meters/dp/B00HNF90D8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-12&keywords=firewire+800+repeater</a>)</li> <li>iLynx 800 ADvanced Firewire combo hub (<a title="" href="http://www.amazon.com/iLynx-Advanced-Firewire-Combo-99MO018202/dp/B004GGORSA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_pc_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JX9QPERVNKC5FQ384XQ" data-skimwords-word="http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FiLynx-Advanced-Firewire-Combo-99MO018202%2Fdp%2FB004GGORSA%2Fref%3Dpd_sim_sbs_pc_6%3Fie%3DUTF8%26refRID%3D1JX9QPERVNKC5FQ384XQ" data-skim-creative="500005">http://www.amazon.com/iLynx-Advanced-Firewire-Combo-99MO018202/dp/B004GGORSA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_pc_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JX9QPERVNKC5FQ384XQ</a>)</li> </ul> <p>The latter doesn't use an external power supply so may not provide sufficient power.<br />ANy suggestions that could help me out would be greatly appreciated!</p>

<p>Guys,<br> I have a Phase One P30 back, and I'd like to use that for shooting tethered. However, I would like to be able to do so without having to use the battery, and instead power the unit through the firewire cable. Phase One states that for iMacs, and Macbooks you can use the firewire to thunderbolt connection, but you need to switch the power supply to battery power to prevent connectivity issues.<br> Is it possible to use a powered firewire repeater/converter hub, like</p> <ul> <li>unibrain FireRepeater-800 Pro (http://www.amazon.com/Unibrain-FireRepeater-800-FireWire-1394b-Repeater/dp/B003Y9C52U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-5&keywords=firewire+800+repeater)</li> <li>Lindy 3 port Firewire 800 repeater hub (http://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-FireWire-Repeater-32911/dp/B000NJM14G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-2&keywords=firewire+800+repeater)</li> <li>FireNEX-CAT5-S800 firewire to ethernet converter (http://www.amazon.com/FireNEX-CAT5-S800-FireWire-Extender-Repeater-Meters/dp/B00HNF90D8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1429410028&sr=8-12&keywords=firewire+800+repeater)</li> <li>iLynx 800 ADvanced Firewire combo hub (http://www.amazon.com/iLynx-Advanced-Firewire-Combo-99MO018202/dp/B004GGORSA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_pc_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JX9QPERVNKC5FQ384XQ)</li> </ul> <p>The latter doesn't use an external power supply so may not provide sufficient power.<br> ANy suggestions that could help me out would be greatly appreciated!</p> <h1 id="title" > </h1>

I recently acquired a Fuji GX645AF, which is the same as the Hasselblad H1. I wanted to purchase a rechargeable battery grip, which nowadays is a 7.4V 2900mAh model if I'm not mistaken. I tried one in the shop and it wouldn't turn on my camera. It stays at the logo display. The seller said I may need to do a firmware upgrade, which should be for free from hasselblad. However, I did some searching online, and the information surrounding the different types of battery grips and chargers for the H1 is rather sketchy. I read about 7.2V rechargeable grips, 7.4 rechargeable grips and 9.6 rechargeable grips. I also read in some cases a firmware update of the H1 is required, but in other cases I read that the latest rechargeable grip is simply not compatible with the H1, regardless of the firmware version. Could someone please explain to me: - which one is which (grips), - what the compatibility is for each of these grips, - are firmware updates required, - can I get my Fuji GX645AF updates at the hasselblad service center so I can use the latest rechargeable grip? Any advice on the above, or how to get around the battery issue, would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance!