soeren_michael_nielsen

I find loading 120 to be very easy except from the the first bit on the roll. When it catches the rest is a childs play. 135 can be more dificult towards the en if it tends to jam. Filmcurl is no worse in 120 as in 135 IMHO. With a Paterson Orbital processor it is very easy to develop the film only drawback is it will only take four sheets.

Kind regards

David W. Griffin , Jul 03, 2008; 09:09 a.m.

 

"This was true in the old days (you might remember old cameras even had little red windows in the back) but that

was in the days of NON-red light sensitive black and white film."

 

Ehh Actually the backing paper takes care of the light form the LRW. Modern 120 film can be used in those

cameras too e.g the Holga and Agfa Clack.

Kind regards

If you have advanced to "frame14" I think your roll should be wound all up on the spool. I don't think youll loose any shots by opening the camera and take your film out. The framecounter should reset when doing so, hopefully.

Kind regards

How do you meter now ? You can always use your Nikon as meter with an apropriate lens on. If you use a tele it will compare to a spotmeter. When shooting in theaters your position will normally be in the dark and your subject will be well lit, right? so an incident lightmeter probably wont work leaving you with reflected metering. Though most incident meters can do that too Id prefer a spotmeter, I have a Minolta spotmeter that works fine for me but Gossen and Sekonic make good meters too, in fact my incident light/flashmeter is the Sekonic 308. You can also find the Pentax Digital spotmeter second hand.

Cheers

S�ren

As you will see on the strobist page mentioned above that guy shoots with his strobes on manual and determin the right output by chimping. no need for a flashmeter when shooting digital. If you only want to use it as slaveflash go for the SB26 or maybe even a cheap sunpack, vivitar or sigma with a slave release. Take a good look at the Strobist site and then decide.

Cheers

S�ren

"I'll wait till somebody gives me a holga. Which reminds me of another camera I wanted to find but haven't yet. Is there a manual point and shoot 6x6, kind of like a minox 35 but medium format?"

 

Yes, the ALPA but it costs a fortune.

Cheers

Søren

Personally I'd go with a Bronica SQA-i or perhaps if money allows move up to 6X7 and look at Pentax 67 and Mamiya 7. Though 645 is bigger than 24X36 I don't personally feel its enough to justify the move. People will disagree I know but thats just my oppinion. 1/500 sec is not lmiting at all and you will have a hard time finding MF camerashutters faster than 1/1000sec. The Bronica has interchangeable backs so you can shoot slow film in good light and fast films in low light seconds after. One Q, why do you want something similar to your Nikon ? MF is different and good at different things. There are limits as you write yourself but some of them could turn out to be advantages if you change your approach

Cheers

Søren

Yes why choose a F3HP. Only for the reasons allready mentioned.

I once wanted a F3HP for the finder since I find my FE2 to difficult to use in low light (FM2 is much better with the diodes) but today when you can have F90X and F100 for about the same price as a F3HP I would (and did) choose the F100. Ok it wont work without batteriesbut if thats an issue I still have the Nikkormat FT3.

Cheers

S�ren

Who Shoots streets in color ?

Well Martin Parr does. And he shoots Mamiya 7 too

(and nikon with 60mm mikro)

http://www.martinparr.com/index1.html

The Mamiya 7II has a Silumin-aluminium alloy diec-cast body, it is NOT plastic.

No Did not work, sorry :-(

I have made an Excel table with different focal lenghts and the tube combination I would like to add it but I don't know how.

The table contains Magnification ratios and exposure compensation in F-stops

e.g 75mm lens with tube 1 = 14mm

 

Magnification = (75+14)/(2*75) = 0.59

 

Compensation = (0.59+1)^2 = 2.5

 

Compensation in F-stops = (Log 2.5)/(log 2) = 1 and 1/3 F-stop

one and one third F-stop

 

I could be wrong about the formulas so please correct me if I am.

When going real close it is often advised or was advised to reverse the lens. A 50mm lens reversed sans extensiontube should give a ratio around 1:1 with very good imagequality. 28mm reversed = aprox 2,6:1.

Regards

I tested the mirror and shutterslap on my P6X7 using a laserpointer pointed on a mirror making a lightpath of 20m. The mirrorslap proved offcource to be major resulting in about 15-20mm movement of the dot.

Shutterslap does exist but in this case it seems minor, <5mm movement of the dot. What was unexpected is that the use of a 6kg Mannfrotto 058 didn't make any differenc compared to the 2.6kg 055, head used was the Mannfrotto 141. I also tried the Mini Magic Ball with similar results. It seems like the ansver is in the camera-tripodhead conection and the stability of the head more than just kilos. An additional weight as sugested may do good but as also suggested it should be placed on camera and not hanging from tripod. If you use the 055 get rid of the plastic thing and use the centercolumn and cut it if low angle shot are necessary.

I do believe that the peak should be in the area 1/30(syncspeed) to 1/15 sec where you get vibration throughout the exposure due to the recoil since the vibration is very well damped, at least in my case. The shots I have done with my Pentax 6X7 show no signs of blur in the range 11/2sec-1/60sec with 75mm f/4,5. Did shots of leaves and the structure is really sharp dovn to the small ribbons in them.

Regards

So thats it ? PS ? Sure ?

Is it not possible that there are still photographers around who use the good old wet darkroom ? ;-)

Regards

One roll of Provia 400 incl canister = 28.22g

100 rolls = 2822g

how do you get 15 pounds ?'

Soeren

The SQ-Ai has an elektronic shutter and in the A setting it wont work without batteries. The B-setting will drain your batteries as long as the shutter is open (cablerelease locked). You may have to get new batteries every two weeks(exagerating) and loose an important shot because of an unexpected malfunction otherwise it works like any other camera in B. BTW all elektronic cameras drain batteries in B except when B is mechanical eg Nikon FE and FE2.

Another thing. A few sec camerashake wont do much in a 30min exposure.

The thing to look out for is bright highlights eg streetlamps etc.

Example (disregarding reciprosity failure)In a 30sec exposure 1sec will equall 5 stops underexposure so I doubt it will show on film but again look out for highlights they may be a problem.

As said, the caplerelease has no influence on the T function, it's just another normal way of tripping the shutter just like the one on the front.

Regards Søren

You don't :-)

You use the lenscap as shutter. Put it on the lens before resetting the A-T lever. Just be aware of any light that will reflect from the shiny plastic. You could paint it matte or use black cardboard or make something up or...... Using the lenscap is the simplest thing to do.

Regards Søren

Timeexposure works independently of the MLU function.

On the lenses you have the A-T lever. Pull out the pin

(it won't go all the way out) and set the lever to T. When you trip the shutter it will stay open until you set the A-T lever back to A.

The T function won't drain your batteries so if your exposures are over one minute I would use T. When exposing less than a minute use B for the convenience. I would always use MLU when shooting from a tripod and when doing multiple shots Id use Contineous © since its set once and locks the mirror up automaticly after winding up and cocking the shutter. Remember to set the A-T lever back to A since the shutters stays open after tripping it in T setting no matter what else you do.

regards Søren

You say you shoot B&W 100ISO. How about slower films e.g. EFKE/ADOX 25

or Pan F.

You dont mention your developer. Perceptol will take 2/3 to 1 stop of your filmspeed acording to many photographers.

The Efke 25 iso has low red sensitivity so using a red filter with it will cut speed to 3-6 ISO IIRC.

And off cource there is the reciprocity failure as mentioned.

Cheers S�ren

The difference is as said in the lenses. The P-lenses has a small screw whereas the PS-lenses has a pin you pull out a bit to let you engage the T-setting. Whether the PS-lenses can be used on SQ-A I don't know but the P-lenses work on the SQ-Ai.

Regards Søren

When using long exposures I use the lenscap as "shutter" by putting it on the lens before closing the T setting.

S�ren

I must advise against the waist-/hippacks. You will get into trouble with the amount of gear you want to carry in your bag. Try instead something like the Lowe Pro Street & Field system combined with your hiking bag. I tried the hippack (orion) solution but the weight of the gear resulted in the bag twisting downvards on my back resulting in a sour back within a few hours.

regards

You should have the T-setting on the lenses which is better than bulp since it doesn't drain batteries.

Søren

if it look's the way you want it is ok. I would recomend you to do some bracketing since 1/3-2/3 stop under- or over exposure can alter the look of a slide completely. e.g. try to underexpose a landscape with a cloudy sky and you might have a dramatic looking image.

Soeren