eric_kim

I used V35 for 3 years and it is convenient, but I prefer a condensor type for BW.

V35 is a beautiful machine.

I am looking for a standard LF lens (~150mm) that I can put in the folded tachihara for convenience.

Unless there is a significant difference between Wista and Tachihara,

I will take Tachihara for weight and price as my first LF.

I will start with bw contact prints on my Focomat V35 and consider 4x5 enlarger later.

 

Any recommendation of a standard focus lens?

 

Thanks for all the responses.

One can use great Leica M lenses on M8.

That is the only advantage that M8 has comparing to other digital cameras.

 

I hope M8 is a successful one and Leica keeps making great lenses and provide good service for my MP for next decade.

 

I am happy with Canon Rebel XT for digital side.

I use Leica and am moving into LF and considering Tachihara, or Wista (I love a

light weight gear).

Q1: Pricewise, Wista is twice more expensive that Tachihara, and I wonder what

more I can get with Wista.

 

Q2: I develop and print bw for 35mm now. If I use 4x5, what are the options

for film development and printing?

I am considering 21mm 3.4 Super Angulon for my MP and possibly M8.

Can I use the exposure meter wtih it on MP and M8

I heard later version of it has a smaller rear element that allows the use of

exposure meter.

What is the reasonable price of it in execellent condition?

I paid USD $950.00 for black version at Ebay 2 years ago.

Mine is a mint with box and leather case.

It's great for b+w and compact, but I would use the current asph version for color and f2.0 performance. The color balance of 4th is little bit off IMHO.

I am a Leica user and found a new Xpan II at the local store recently, which

was the last one in that store.

 

I put 45mm and tried to focus, but the range finder patch didn't move except

near infinity. Salesperson spent a few minutes and fixed the problem. I asked

him how he fixed it, and he said he touched the range finder coupling (small

round metal piece) on the top inside of lens mount of the camera.

 

I have thought about having a second camera with my MP and thought XPan is a

good choice, but felt a little bit uncomfortable with the stablity of the range

finder of the camera. I have used my Leica MP for 3 years, but I have never

had a problem with the range finder. It comes with one year US warrenty, but

what if the range finder doesn't work after the warrenty is expired?

 

These days it's getting harder to find a new XPan II and I need your advice.

Is it a good idea to buy a discontinued model by the way?

If I pass Xpan, I may go for M8.

This is very helpful information for all V35 users!

I use V35 with no easel, and auto focus always worked.

I definitely use this information when I use an easel.

Recently I noticed that more people put V35s on Ebay, but I will keep mine with VC, Color heads and Voltage stablizer.

IMHO, film scan and digital prints for bw don't come close to the prints from V35 yet.

 

How does color printing work with V35?

What other tools do I need for color printing?

I appreciate all the replies that helped me a lot to understand the E-6 process. I am going to more strict on temperature and cross contamination next time I do it. I will also try Kodak E-6 Kit.

Yes, but I am curious about how the new coating alters the picture quality and image characteristics.

I inspected the lens and found the front element has been recoated with the blueish coating. The rear element has a faint yellow coating.

Is it still worth to buy?

Recoating is not good for the resale value.

How about the usability? Which one is better, the original yellow, or the recoated blue coating? The new coating looks OK, but I don't know the quaility of coating.

I saw one Collapsible Summicron 50mm/f2 at the local shop.

I inspected the coating of front and rear elements and found some differences

between two: the front one has bluish coating, the rear one has a faint

yellowish coating (almost no coating). Serial started with 95,xxx,xxx.

Is it mornal?

Adrian,

do you have an email of Don Goldberg?

Thanks.

It was a Red dial IIIf with no self timer

I have a MP, Summicron 35mm asph and Summilux 50 pre-asph and was looking for

a second cameria for color, wide angle and easy-to-carry purpose.

 

At the local shop, I saw a IIIf in excellent condition, but 1/2" tick and 3"

wide aluminium plate is attached to the center of the base plate by four screws.

The sale person said it is for the tripod attachment.

Since I won't use a tripod with it much, I would remove the plate if I buy it.

Q1: How can I filled the four screw holes? I can put the screws outside of the

base plate, but the surface of base won't be smooth with the four screws.

 

Q2: How much the value will be sacrificed with this screw holes?

Their asking price with a collaseble Summicron 50mm good condition and 3

extension tube is $540 with 14 days warrenty. The cosmetic and mechanical

condition of the body and lense is excellent.

Is it a reasonable price? I prefer Elmar 50mm with IIIf for the compactness

and don't know what the extension tube for.

I'd washed for 15 minutes between color development

and fixing on 2nd velvia (this one is expired a year ago) which has good color balance, but the center of each frame has brownish cast. Is it from over-wash, or the age of the film?

 

If anyone used Paterson Chrome Six, is the wash time 1.5 minutes, or 15 minutes between color development and fixing?

 

The print quality of instruction is bad and I cannot see whether it is 1.5, or 15.

I'd developed 3 Velvia and one Provia films using Paterson Chrome Six E-6 kit

first time.

 

All the slides have greenish blue cast except the second Velvia. I was very

careful to avoid cross-contamination. I'd stayed in 38C for first and color

developers.

 

I might be off a few degrees off for a few seconds during wash after

developements. Any reason?

I recently purchased a 9 year old Speedotron brownline 840 lighting kit at Ebay. Its sync voltage is too high for the digital cameras, and I purchased a Morris wireless radio trigger transmitter/receiver on $79.00 at Helix. I am very happy to its performance and don't have to deal with wires.

Thanks, John.

I found that Joe Zeltsman's tutorial site has a lot of information about the studio photography.

Could you recommend good books for posing for a baby and family in

studio photography? I have a few books for studio lighting and

portraits, but I need a reference for posing specifically.

 

One more question: How can I remove shadow behind a person that I

got from two softboxes (12" and 24" height box) light setup? I can

see I could make shadow invisible by putting some distance from the

backdrop. If I do that, it may change the color temperature of the

backdrop area.

What is the sync voltage of Nikon speedlight sb-25 which was

manufactured in 1992?

 

I used it with Nikon F4 and am considering to use it with a digital

camera. Is it safe to use sb-25 with a digital camera, or do I need

to use a flash sync voltage reducer/regulator?

 

What is a good sync voltage reducer/regulator? Is Wein regulator

good at B&H?

What is the sync voltage of Nikon speedlight sb-25 which was

manufactured in 1992. I used it with Nikon F4 and am considering to

use it with a digital camera. Do I need to use a voltage reducer to

use it with a digital camera?

I am looking for a flash meter for studio portraiture with Leica MP

and Rolleiflex TLR (possibley DSLR later) and Speedotron 802B light

(2 lights 800W), softboxes and umbrellas.

It seems Minolta meters are econimical and simple, but there are

many other nice meters.

q1: What is the difference between Minolta V and VF?

q2: What's new from Minolta IV to V?

q3: What do you recommend among the following meters for studio

flash portraiture?: Sekonic 358, Gossen Luna Star F2, Gossen DigiPro

F, Minolta IV, V, VF