d_b10

I am about to use a medium format camera that does not have a built

in light meter.

I do have a Nikon SLR that has a meter built in. Instead of buying

a seperate meter, I thought I could use my Nikon's.

The lens on the medium format camera is 75mm (45mm equivalent for a

35mm camera). I was wondering if I take my Nikon and zoom my lens

to 45mm, and then take a meter reading, whether I could then use

this reading for my medium format camera.

I also heard if you use an 18% reflective gray card, zoom in with an

SLR so the whole image is of the card, and take a reading that way,

you can get an accurate meter reading. Any comments on this

technique?

I appreciate any help I can get on these issues. Thank you.

Sorry if this question is very elementary, but I am about to start

using medium format film.

I plan to use Velvia 50, and I know unlike 35mm, there is no metal

case to keep the film from sunlight once you are done taking

pictures. I know that the film has a paper back. Is this supposed

to keep any light from affecting what has been exposed already?

Would I need to keep the film in a light-proof bag before I get the

film developed?

Thank you.

Hey everyone. I am going to be purchasing a stroboframe bracket for

my camera, that way the flash will be above the lens at all times

whether the shot is vertical or horizontal. I will need a cable to

connect my camera to the flash, and here's where I need the advice...

Right now my sb-24 is set on ttl (on my hotshoe), and whenever I

change the focal length of my zoom lens, I can here the speedlight

zooming also. I'm guessing this is so the pictures don't end up

washed out, because I have been happy with all the pictures I have

taken with this flash.

One option I have is to get an adapter for my hotshoe to give my

camera (n80) a pc output so I can use a pc cord to connect my camera

to my flash. Here's where I am confused. If I use a pc cord, will my

flash still understand to compensate for how close I am to the

subject, or will I find my pictures too washed out or not enough

flash? Is the compensating feature only for a ttl connection? If that

is the case, I could get something like the nikon sc-17 so the

connection stays as ttl.

If someone could help me understand the differences between these

connections, and help me figure out which is the better way to go, I

would really appreciate it. Thank you.