jeff_ford

<p>Experiment with the stroke feature and feather it to suit.</p>

<p>Not seeing the problem.....why should you have heard of someone's custom presets? Am I missing something?</p>

<p>Thank you, I've previously read through all of those but still could't grasp why the vertical goes beyond the ceiling point of the graph, to it, yes, but not beyound it.</p>

<p>But I've concluded that for my work, its doesn't really matter. I can view the RAW files 'live' and judge clipping on the histogram left to right.... good enough for my needs</p>

<p>thanks all.</p>

<p>Thanks Craig, got it. </p>

<p>Zooms will always either barrel at one end or pin cushion at the other. Even Prime lenses costing £15k and more will distort, so either buy a swing/tilt or use the software to correct the issues.</p>

<p>Always place your feet for the end of the pan. Can you not set up an aux VF, a piece of wire can be used, keep the tip of the wire on the subject and you shouldn't be far wrong</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses, but its not sinking in. :o(<br>

For ease of explanation lets call the left to right range 0-255. If at around 200, I have a hump that goes way off the top of the histogram, this means what..... Surely its not indicating that anything is clipping exposure wise as that would then extend right along the scale to (and beyound) 255. If my image is fairly high key, or I'm shooting packs on a cream BG, then would this be acceptable to expect an overload at the 200 mark?<br>

Hope thats making sense</p>

 

<p>So for example if my mid tone 'hump' is braking way through the top of the histogram that means.....?</p>

<p>I get the histogram left to right info, from black, to white, from 0 to 255, but what does the the height of the various aspects of the histogram mean please?</p>

<p>Desaturate all you like but you need to start with a high key image</p>

<p>Use nets (tights/stockings). Cheap and still the best diffusion once you find a favourite. Beware seeing the net on wide angles, shoot wide open.<br>

Not a fan of post softening but reducing clarity in lightroom is quite good </p>

<p>thanks to all that recommended the 55mm f3.5, I finally found a beauty......A joy compared to the Sigma</p>

<p>I used a 27" imac that would only play DVD's for 13 minutes....or if it was rendering video would stop after around the same length of time. It would also drop the internet connection. Almost like a soft reboot, but without the reboot....<br>

Luckily it wasn't mine, hated it.</p>

<p>Is it around 13 minutes your files stop transferring?</p>

<p>I've downloaded the .icc from the costco website.... but what do I do with it? How do I integrate it into photoshop Elements 8</p>

<p>Get an old CRT, LCD is a long way off unless you want to spend 2k plus.</p>

<p>If he's "your" computer tech why are you questioning him?</p>

<p>You dont need 16gb, but you should consider raid</p>

<p>Spend the money on a monitor or you're wasting it</p>

<p>Lightroom. Its so easy to use to manipulate the information thats present, then only use PS to create information that isn't</p>

<p>Its really easy Ragunath, just look through, rack focus fairly quickly through the sweet point with ever decreasing movements until you hit the spot. Forget split screens, forget leds...... <br>

Just use the ground glass to focus, dont reframe, just focus on the section of the GG that show the point of focus. people complicate it far too much</p>

<p>For motion picture, remember as people walk around in shot, maybe on a 200mm at T2, somebody is keeping that image in focus without looking through the lens, just using at best, marks on the floor to correspond to marks on the lens and a 'feel' for distance'. The most under appreciated person on a film unit usually</p>

<p>Sometimes the perfect spot needs to be between two points to 'split' the focus, for two shot dialogue for example. And then they move so you may need to favour one or the other depending on who is speaking. Used to love it.</p>

<p>Stills lenses i'll grant you are not made for easy manual focus so the comparison is maybe not a fair one, though you have the advantage of looking through at the moment of the shot</p>

 

<p>Thanks Raghunath, I've never had to deal with camera shake, fair point.</p>

<p>Manual focus can be a wonderful thing though......</p>

<p>I spent 13 years as a 'focus puller' and dont understand why you need "camera sharpening" to check focus. What are you shooting that you cant check focus before, or as, you shoot?</p>

<p>Interested to know....</p>

<p>If you've selected PS to handle the colour why would you see printer options? You should select printer to control colour surely?</p>

<p>I'd be wary of Spyder, I have Elite 3 with version 4 software and its shockingly inaccurate. Some people swear by it, though it seems those that have had more than one report them as very variable</p>

<p>Mine's a dud</p>

<p>Lightroom brush would be your friend here I suspect</p>

<p>Whats "durn"?</p>

<p>The modes all have various advantages and disadvantages, Motion blur, depth of field (or lack of) lattitude depth (RAW)</p>

<p>If you know the basics shoot manual.<br>

Shoot RAW if you can</p>