jeff_ford

YESSS!!!  ***SOLUTION***

 

I knew there was a way!

From Loxley:

Sorry for the confusion, I understand what you mean now.
 
When you are in the product builder if you select the fit button, then right-click on your images and select all. Then drag and drop the image in the picture box, this will fit all images.

 

THANK YOU LOXLEY

 

On 11/21/2022 at 3:37 PM, Ken Katz said:

Find a photo print company that will print the images in "letterbox" format, which would produce a white border on 2 sides of the image (like when viewing a high aspect ratio film on an HD TV screen).  In the US, I have only found Adoramapix with this option.

I have a solution using Lightroom to add a "letterbox" boarder to images sized for the print size you specify:

https://www.photo.net/forums/topic/534632-letterbox-print-feature/#comment-5750557

There is also a solution using Photoshop suggested by a Member

 

Unfortunately that won't work, too many images to edit .... There is a solution on the Loxley site for individual prints , I'm waiting to see if this can be applied to multiple images

OK. so for others.....there is an option to 'FIT' which can be applied on a print by print basis, I'm waiting to hear if there is a global command to apply it to all 1800 uploaded images....

Frustrating as there used to be a 'fix aspect ratio' option ........or similar terminology

adding borders isn't an option as there are around 1800 to be printed.

 

We'll buy a new printer, got boxes of Fine Art paper to use up anyway....🙂

 

Take this image....I obviously want the full width....but when I load it onto their software it just reframes to 2 faces.....

She used to print everything herself on an old Epson R2800. But its no longer working and we hoped outsourcing the prints would be easier than replacing the printer.

But I may be wrong 😂

5 hours ago, glen_h said:

But pan and scan is exactly the way they fill the screen, and exactly what you say they are not doing.

But most now have a web site that will let you crop appropriately, with the image on the screen.

They don't guarantee it exactly, for a variety of uncertainties in the process, but it should be close enough for the usual use.

But if you want the whole image, then you get bars on two sides, unless it is exactly the right ratio.

Then I've not explained it clearly. They are enlarging the image to fit the ratio of the paper (pan and scan....which should never have been allowed 😡). I WANT the bars. I want the image printed how it was intended. I'd rather trim the bars post printing than have them trim my image to fit their paper. How do I get them to retain the whole image WITHIN the paper ratio

That's the problem, they've all been cropped. I don't understand why the integrity of the image is respected rather than enlarged to fill the paper. Seems ludicrous. I'm a cinematographer of 40 years, if somebody reframed my work to fit the screen like the old pan and scan for TV) I'd go nuts. 

Hi all

My wife has several hundred prints she wants to have printed by Loxley but we cant find how to stop the images being cropped/reframed

We just want to select a print size (15cm x 10cm) and have the images printed for 'best fit' within that. I'm surprised this sin't the default option, but we cannot find how to do this. 

 

Any suggestions please?

I'm a retired cinematographer who has agreed to take some wedding stills for a family member. Unfortunately the venue is Marylebone Town Hall late afternoon in mid December.... And I know less than nothing about flash. 

I've a Nikon SB700

Nikon D800e or Sony A7 mk2

Would prefer the Sony with my Leica summicron lenses but no ttl. Not sure I'll have the time or confidence to go manual flash mode, so guess its the D800e

Any tips re settings on camera and flash? 

And has anybody shot this location in the dark? We only own the steps for 30 minutes. I've no time to recce beforehand, so any advice gratefully accepted. 

Owned an R2880 since forever and I hate it. How its never been launched out the window I'll never know as I'm not known for my patience. Its ok with anything but the paper I want to use, Velvet Fine Art A3+. I've tried every which way.....odd thing is, when you get one sheet to load, you can normally get on a roll and do several, But I've sweated for 2 hours or more sometimes to get the first one to load and then given up. When it works its ok......but I've probably had 30 prints from it in 15 years

Couldn't disagree more with the above. The Noctilux has a unique character that makes it an outstanding tool for isolating subjects whilst retaining a wide(ish) feel. The out of focus character adds to its unique look. The only reason I bought Leica MP was to use the Noctilux, but found the Rangefinder system useless for the extreme accuracy needed when focusing. I now use it on a Sony A7mk2, it's still not easy, but with the right subjects it produces stunning results. In a time where optical perfection is being pursued with such fervour, the flaws of older lenses are now much sought after to counter the brittle, clean images attained with digital capture. An extension ring helps get the focus cliser than 3 feet. The optical footprint also works well with the Red Epic Dragon

Recommendation sub £50 please. I tend to use D800 with a fairly heavy 80-200 t2.8. No sports, just general stuff

<p>Thank you for the replies. I am away shooting for a while but will post example when I retrurn.... the image posted earlier was posted by somebody trying to help, not by me and does not represent the type of artwork I'm attempting to archive/ copy/ print. They are made up of an extensive range of greys from white to black, not just black line drawings on white BG</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

Flash? I'm too used to my old tungsten habits. I usually shoot them exterior in either flat light or in a shadowed spot. I've used a dozen different lenses, Leica M, Nikon, even an old set of PL mounted Zeiss super speeds. Its a post fix/technique I'm seeking, especially as a lot of images are already catalogued so would be nice to go back to the original neg scans / files and rework them.<br>

As for the scanner suggestion, they are way too big for my V700, they are closer to A3 size and it seems a decent A3 scanner would be about £2k+<br>

I've tried layer masks (obviously) but my photoshop knowledge beyond that gets a bit sketchy, I normally use Lightroom for doing 'regular' photography corrections, but I'm struggling with these white BG's</p>

I'm a Cinematographer, my wife is an artist. She draws mainly pencil on white cartridge paper (similar to velvet fine art paper, slight texture). I photograph her

work in very even, flat light, yet really struggle to get even whites when I print, in fact I often get grey gradients in corners. If I adjust the curves/levels in

Lightroom to get clinical whites, I loose detail in the light pencil areas. Photographing people on white limbos and grading the whites in telecine is easy

compared to trying to print on paper or even achieve a nice 'clean' digital file.

 

Any suggestions? Tips? Tricks?

 

Thanks in advance.

<p>The proof preview is perfect. I use a Dell U2410 for the broad brushstroke corrections and for general corrections though for paper prints I tend to use an old Viewsonic VP201b, both calibrated using a Spider v4 which has always served well in the past.<br>

I'm going to take your suggestion and start from scratch. <br>

BTW prints from a laptop using the same settings work fine......</p>

<p>Where do you see Luster Andrew? The Epson preview is exactly how it prints and so thought it relevant to mention</p>

 

<p>In the UK I get charged over $65 a month for CC. After endless discussions with Adobe and promises of price reviews nothing has changed. At a recent meeting of like minded photographers 87 of the 120ish present have decided to cancel our subscriptions as our workload allows, I cancelled mine yesterday.<br>

My CC never allowed me to use LR due to some complication with an existing license on my hard drive which myself and Adobe spent hours trying to resolve, so it proved even poorer value for me. The $10 option for PS and LR is not available to me.<br>

So whilst I was happy to support Adobe in this new venture, it became clear that they were not prepared to support me, and many others so its cheerio Adobe.<br>

CS6 and LR5.5 that I own will serve me for many years, when they don't I'll look elsewhere as the competition is imminent, from Fuji and Sony especially</p>

<p>Sorry for delay responding.....<br>

settings look like this<br>

https://www.flickr.com/gp/tonybrowndop/5Ah6Uh<br>

https://www.flickr.com/gp/tonybrowndop/8K179L<br>

And the preview looks like this<br>

https://www.flickr.com/gp/tonybrowndop/7620kz</p>

<p>Sorry, I've tried for an hour to embed the images and have given up.</p>

<p>I have no way to check the cartridge jets as I cant get to print an image, but the fact the error shows in the print preview indicates that the fault is not with the printer hardware.</p>

 

<p>Windows 8<br>

Photoshop CC<br>

Lightroom 5.5<br>

Epson R2880 on Velvet Fine Art<br>

New inkset.....and another</p>

<p>My prints (and previews) appear to be double managed, the saturation is beyond psychedelic and yet I cannot find where my problem is. The printer is about 4 years old now but has only ever had about 20 sheets of A3+ run through it, the first 10 or so were great but since then I've been having problems and keep walking away from it for a few more months as I just cannot find the solution. I've followed the 'Printing with Lightroom' instructions to the letter, but its almost as if<br>

Color management>>Other>>Epson Fine Art<br>

and<br>

Mode>>Custom>>Off(No color adjustment<br>

are not reacting correctly and there is a second layer of color management being overlaid somewhere<br>

Faulty driver? I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling, I've used every paper profile I can find but nothing changes the preview.<br>

Photoshop CC is the same so am ruling out Adobe, it has to be in the printer driver/paper profile....but where?</p>

<p>Help</p>

<p>Not a problem - thanks</p>

<p>I need to shoot a small sequence on an Arri Alexa using strobs as my main light source, however Unilux which will cycle very quickly will not give enough power</p>

<p>So I am exploring the possibilty of adapting stills based units but need to find the recycle time to work out if I can marry this to a feasible frames per second rate.</p>

<p>Could anybody give me a lead as to what the fastest system may be?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Aha... they were sold to me as D Lite 2 it's.... but they aint. :(</p>

<p>I bought a pair of D Lite 2's recently (Flea Bay), immaculate, well chuffed. However having now just spent £50 on an Eco transmitter I find the units wont fire. There are only 4 frequencies..... am I missing something?</p>

<p>Is there a system I could use with a D80 to remotely fire the camera when a beam is broken.</p>

<p>If yes, would a falling water droplet be sufficient to trigger the signal?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p> </p>