colt_hagmaier

I was just wondering if anyone could link me to where I could learn

more about the differences between UC, VC, and NC. If no link, a

simple explanation would be very much appreciated.

I was wondering when it is necessary to pull the flash off the

camera and use a bracket? Is it always a good idea to do this with

flash photography? I have never used one and so is the cheap

stroboframe quick-flip for $40 a good start to practice? Any help

with this would be really appreciated.

Yes, the AF is very noisy. It resembles rubbing glass together or fingernails across a chalkboard. It is a terrible sound. Certainly could not shoot wildlife with it and it is always the center of attention when there are people about. It is an older camera, but in mint condition, so I thought I'd see about fixing it. I can not use it as it is, its just too noisy. Plus I am scared that all that noise will damage something.

Be careful with the multi-exposure in the F100. As the instruction manual itself says, its not recomended. The problem is that there is a potential for the frames to not line up correctly and then the entire rest of the film is off on every exposure. I guess this is a tough thing to ask an SLR to do, but if the goal of using the Multi-exposure is to just test the flash, its not worth losing the remainder of your frames. Either calibrate your flash with a button or just waste the remainder of the film. Tis better to know you are wasting it than to shoot it and lose what you thought you were getting because the frame alignment is off. In still other cases, the film does not rewind completely and then you will certainly lose some frames, if not all. Best of luck, and don't use multi-exp for anything but multiple exposures.

I've come to the conclusion through this site and visits with

numerous photo shops that my AF needs lubrication. Does anyone know

how much of a process this is and how much something like that should

cost. I have never had a camera repaired and I want to know what to

expect before I just hand it over and say fix it. Even with an

estimate, I don't know if $50 would be fair or a rip or what, so any

ideas?

Im going to shoot a friend's son in a high school soccer match

tomorrow. The game will start around dusk and will be lit by those

standard high school stadium lights by the end. I was wondering if

those lights are really warm, as I imagine they might be. Will I

need a light cooling filter, like 82A to compensate, or is that

wrong. Any other filter suggestions, I am really not familiar with

this lighting. Btw, I am shooting TMAX 3200 at 1600 because I think

it best and Superia 1600 because he insists on color and thats all

the local photo shop had on a day's notice. Any suggestions would be

fantastic.

I like Dewayne's a lot. The slides are always dusty though, so be ready to remove it before you do whatever you want to do with them. I think it is because of the type of mounting they use, it doesn't cut perfectly and sheers a bit of dust about. The service takes about a week to Virginia and the slides are returned in a very nice opaque plastic case. Its a bit more expensive than some other options and they charge for S&H too, so its not really economical to send just one roll, but you dont want exposed kodachrome sitting around, so, shoot more and you wont have a problem.

I just bought a used N8008 as a back up to my F100. I am amazed at

the appearance of the camera. It is really unbelievably clean.

Unfortunately, the autofocus is extremely noisy. It is a screeching

type sound. I bought it online and the noise was not reported

earlier to me. It does it with all of my lenses, both internal and

external focuses. Does anyone know what might be causing this

problem? If so, how much do you think it might cost to fix it? I am

just wondering whether it is worth it. Any information would really

be appreciated.

I bought a laptop at Bestbuy and it kept screwing up. Now I am not sure how good Bestbuy is at actually fixing their products, but after three things broke in two years (memory got corrupted, spacebar came loose, and a speaker stopped functioning) they gave me a brand new laptop. Thats not bad and so that alone made my service agreement worth it. Yeah, it was a hassle, but it did get me two computers for the price of one. If Nikon still has bugs to work out with the D70, and I don't know that they do, it might be prudent to have some type of lemon protection. Just a thought.

Chuk,

In the last two weeks I have shot about 7 types of slide film, all with varying success. I am new to slide photography, so don't expect a lot out of me, but I'll tell you this. Of what I shot, the Kodachrome (KR, not PKR) was the best. I shipped it out to Dewayne's, took about 5 days to get back. I didn't photograph any people though, so skin tones are not a part of this conversation. A close second was Velvia 50. That is a kick a** film right there, mainly because it is very comperable to Kodachrome and the lab in my town can have it back next day. In addition, since its local, I can actually talk to someone about the film and whats on it, quite helpful. I wouldn't waste my money on Ektachrome, I am not happy with that film compared to the other two. Velvia has the new 100F, which I found very little difference with the 50. That being said, its a dollar a role more than the 50, and I usually don't need the extra speed, so I won't be shooting it. The sensia isn't close to the Velvia in my trial. The Astia has an odd hue to it, kinda greenish, I'm not sure what it is about it, just not how I remembered the pictures being. I didn't shoot the RTP because it was expensive and I thought I'd try to find satisfaction in the cheaper stuff first...which I did. The best news for you is that you can get Velvia in 120, and I'd imagine it would perform similarly, although I have not used that size. Anyway, to summarize, go with Velvia 50, 100f if you need to, they're E6 and do a great job. Best of luck, hope it helped.

When using digital, you lose focal length on these lenses. I would use the 105 f/2.8 Micro. This is controversially the best portrait lens available, I am suprised it is mentioned so little above. If you shoot a 50mm on a digital, although your depth of field might be nice, you have a really good chance of distorting the person and it will not be flattering. I wouldn't shoot less than a 60mm on a film camera. Still, the 105mm is the best for both. Plus, the macro capability is fun for other interests as well. Just my opinion though.

I was considering the Gitzo2220, but no retailers in my area sell

them, so I was hoping someone could give me their first hand, or

second, opinion of it. I really like the idea of its versatility,

but the photos of it supporting in areas I wouldn't be able to stand

make me weary. Just wondering what the real deal is with it. Also

I am looking at the Bogen Delux 3047-3 w/ quick release, which I

have seen and like, but if you have any comments on that, they would

be appreciated as well.

I tend to see a rectangular black zone below the treetops that extends to the bottom of the frame, did you add this? The foreground seems to be a bit rectangular is all, anyone else see what I am talking about?

Ball and Socket or pan-tilt? Do you need a quick release system? How much is too much to spend?

See you only heard half of what the camera store guy was saying, he was about to trade you your body for 5 of those cardboard box cameras, since their all pretty much the same right? This way you don't even need a lens...decision made. Yeah, I have the 70-300 AF ED, and I was suprised at how much I like it. The photos are crisp and the lens feels much more solid than i had anticipated. Buy the Nikon, you cant go wrong. Plus if you ever want to resell it, the Nikon will go much easier than the Promaster (and with a much higher return). Get a skylight filter for it too, it has a tendency to look a bit flat without one.

There is a Ritz in just about every mall in the DC/Virginia Area. They usually have a pretty good selection of Nikkor, but don't go there to ask questions. You will often get a high school student or someone with very little photography experience. It's ok if you just want to put them on a body and check them out. I wouldn't buy there either, quite overpriced.

I've seen enough. The Reala is very impressive. I am buying some tonight. Thanks for sharing those with us. Sorry i don't have any answers for you, just thanks.

I appologize if my information was incorrect. I called the Kodak tech support for film number (800) 242-2424 X10, and they transferred me to the plant in NJ. They are the ones who told me that there was no more K14 processing there and gave me the other information. I am sorry if that is wrong, but glad to hear it. Thanks to everyone who looked into it.

Well, in one day I have gone from knowing nothing of slide film, to

way more than I need to. I called Kodak in NJ and suprise, they no

longer develop Kodachrome (K14) [very recent change I suppose]. If

you send them your film, they are simply passing it along to one of

the following labs (w/markup). They referred me to three. 1) Film

Rescue, yeah, they don't do it anymore either. 2) Rocky Mountain

Photo Labs (303) 364-6444, they'll do it, but don't expect it in

less than a month. And finally, Dwayne's in Kansas (800) 522-3940.

They have a turn around time of 7-10 days, which is pretty good

including shipping. Anyway, just thought you might want to know

that Kodak (at least in the U.S. [they do in Switzerland]) no longer

processes their own film. This is becoming quite a pain. Watch out

for prices to raise too, according to Dwayne's, since they now have

a continental monopoly.

Overly simplistic question. Whenever a photograph is printed in any

type of photography publication, it always has the aperature used,

focal length (even on a zoom) and shutterspeed. I know some of this

photography is moving quickly (sports and such) and that they must

be shooting in at least shutter priority, if not full programed

mode. Now are these people stopping every shot to write down what

the picture was taken at, or is there some device that records this

for them? If so, what is it called and can where can I get one for

a Nikon F100. That would be a great learning tool for myself.

Thanks for any help you have.

I have finally got around to buying some better photography

equipment. Its something I have been wanting for years, but just

havn't had the money. I am Nikon all the way, so if your answer has

to do with some other brand, thanks, but I'm not buying it (pardon

the pun). Anyway, my question is simple. I would like to be able

to start photographing events, indoor parties and such (we're not

talking weddings here, not yet atleast) and want to get a lens that

has a relatively broad range of effectiveness (I mean focal

length). Concurrently, I realize that many events are indoors where

lighting is poor, and occasionally, flash photography is not

appropriate or permitted. Here is where lies my quandry. The two

lenses I have been looking at are the 28-85/2.8-4.0 D and the 24-

120/3.5-5.6 G AF-S VR. Obviously, I like the 28-85 better because

of it is faster, but I like the 24-120 because of the greater focal

length coverage and the Vibration Reduction (although I have never

used that before, it sounds cool :^}. Additionally, it is a G lens,

so it lacks the distance computation of a D lens. I really don't

know what would be best. Please let me know any suggestions you

have here and or if you think another lense which I have not

considered would be better. I guess I might just have to buy two,

although I don't want to, the F100 was quite an amature investment

in itself. Just one other thing, Portra 400 ok for indoor shooting

without a flash with these lenses, or do you think 800 is required?

I realize it is completely dependent upon the availible light, but

just in general, what do you think? I guess I could always push the

400? Anyway, thanks for any help.