an_cs

http://www.mikeware.demon.co.uk/

 

Click "Galleries".

By the way, has everyone seen these pictures:-

 

http://www.mikeware.demon.co.uk/

 

Some of the most beautiful photographs I've seen. Excellent!

Have been to the above mentioned. Wandering if I've missed any "must read" websites. Anyway thanks.

Could people here point me to some of the most important

Platinum/Palladium process websites? Appreciate it.

Thanks Jay, Your information has been very helpful. Appreciate it!

Thanks again Russ. You've been of great help.

Thanks again Jay, I'm thinking more in terms of conventional developer. I could get D76, HC110 and Rodinal quite easily here. Do you know which of these developers is a definate no-no for Fomapan 200? I'm not technically inclined & there's little information available elsewhere, so everyone please bare with me. Thanks. :-)

Thank again. Really appreciate the help.

Okay, I think I'll go with Fomapan 200. I need to know what are ideal

developers & starting times for this film. Can someone advise?

 

By the way, how is Fomapan 100 different other than film speed?

 

Thank.

Thanks again for the information. Does anyone know enough if production of Fomapan 200 in sheet format is consistent from batch to batch?

Thanks Russ. It seems very little infomation about this film are available on the net. By the way, Pt/Pd is a Platinum/Palladium process.

Would appreciate if anyone could tell me about his experience with

Fomapan 200 sheet film. Does it do well with expanded development for

Pt/Pd? What are ideal developers to use? Is it true speed of 200? I

realised that reciprocity effect for this film is outrageous (1 sec.

3x, 10 sec. 9x). Is it a problem for you? Thanks.

Thanks again. Yes, I will test the holders too. Appreciate the suggestion.

It's an old camera I'm using. I'll keep searching where the fault lies. Thanks!

Is it possible for plastic Lisco/fidelity filmholders to leak light on

the long side of the holder? Looks unlightly to me as there are no

moving parts, flap or felt here. Film shows leak on the long side that

begins about 1mm from the top edge of the image area. The leak does

not register on the same spot on several sheets of film, but runs

along the top on every sheet. I'm sure someone here has had similiar

experience before.

http://www.satinsnowglass.com/html/products.html

Hi William, thanks for the comment. It helps too.

Hi Chris,

 

Looks good to me. Appreciate it!

Thanks Brian, that's good enough for me. Good day!

Hi all,

 

Has anyone heard of or bought anything from Bromwell Marketing. Was it

a good experience dealing with them? Was the transaction smooth?

Honest business practice? Any comment is appreciated. Thanks!

Mr Richard Ritter was very generous to have taught me this:-

 

Remove the groundglass frame from the camera back. Look for a piece of clear glass smaller than 8x10" (a small picture frame glass, 4x6" etc. is easy to find around the house). Slide the glass along the four sides of camera back recess area where the film holder sits. Any bumps of warp should be quite obvious.

 

Good luck!

I find that only moderate movements is required when shooting a landscape, except for plenty of rise sometimes. I spent more time adjusting the tripod at the exact inch-perfect spot than fiddling with camera movements.

Top-right or bottom left.

Thanks again, Michael for your much detailed explaination. Looks like it isn't as simple as 123. Since I'm not knowledgeable in that sort of things, I guess it's best for me to get a lens already fitted with the shutter, or just use the barrel lens as it is. Should be okay, since I do time exposure fairly often. The only disadvantage here is I may have to do without a lens hood. Appreciate it, Michael.

This has been asked before but I just want to remove all doubts before

I plunge.

 

1. I'm thinking of buying a G Claron 210 or 240 in barrel and I'm

wondering if it will fit the Copal No.1 shutter on my G Claron 305. Is

it a simple case of unscrewing the 305 cells and replacing with the

210/240 cells? I've read a recent post somewhere that the poster had

difficulty removing the G Claron front cells from the barrel (not the

shutter). It seemed like he couldn't get enough grip on the front cell

rim to unscrew it. Or that there is a little screw somewhere to remove

before the lens cells can be detached. So, am I likely to run into

problems like this?

 

2. Do I need a new aperture scale for the different focal length

lenses since they all come in f9?

 

3. Also, I learned that there are two versions of G Claron - the older

and newer versions. Which version do you recommend?

 

Thanks.