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cdewen

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Posts posted by cdewen

    a 19inch f11 GOLD rim artar

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>I suspect that when you receive the lens, you'll find that the "gold" is really brass. I had a lens once that I machined off the black finish on the end of the front cell. I don't recall why I did it, but it came out looking like this lens. </p>

    <p>Charley</p>

     

    Mounting Flange stuck on Barrel Lens

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>The local salt-water shipyard guys prefer <em>PBlaster</em> to loosen corroded parts.<br>

    Jim Galli recommends NAPA's <em>Liquid Buffer</em> - #565-1322.<br>

    Truckers recommend a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF.</p>

    <p>If the barrel and flange are different metals, you might have had some galvanic corrosion, which would make the flange just about impossible to remove.</p>

    <p>Take care using a strap wrench. As you apply more pressure, you're pushing the handle into the object, and could dent/deform it.</p>

    <p>Without having seen the lens, I'll make a blind suggestion: drill a board and mount the lens and flange to it. Now you won't have to worry about the lens flying out of your hands while you're turning wrenches. Take another piece of wood, as large as is practical, and drill a hole through it the size of the barrel. Split this piece in half, so that you can put it around the barrel, and clamp it together. When I do this, I use a mill to make the hole to the exact diameter. I then wet the wood so that it swells and makes a very tight fit. If you can't get that tight a fit, try putting some of those rubber strips sold as jar lid openers between the wood and the barrel. Grab a big pipe wrench and have at it, but be aware that the job might be impossible, and quit when you get scared you might break something.</p>

    <p>Charley</p>

     

    Evil genius? Or 'used car salesman'?

    in Large Format

    Posted

    That's Andy Glover, who, over the years, has sold some great lenses, a couple of which I've bought. There are a number of people who follow his auctions just to read his descriptions. They aren't ordinary, to say the least.

     

    As to the waste of a 4x5, well, it's got neither pedigree nor provenance. Tossing it into the stove for heat might be its' highest possible use.

     

    Charley

    ideas on mounting an industar 300mm f/4.5

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>OK, go ahead and whip me, beat me, whatever - I deserve it. I could have answered your question a week and a half ago, but was "too busy" to go dig out the I-37 from the pile of Soviet junk.</p>

    <p>The 300mm Industar-37 uses a metric mounting flange designated M80-0.75. That's an 80mm hole, with the thread pitch being 0.75mm. In Yankee terms, that's 3.146" (79.91mm) for the threads on the barrel (Major Diameter), and about 3.126" (79.40mm) for the threads on the flange (Minor Diameter). A pitch of M0.75 equals pretty close to 34 TPI.</p>

    <p>If you're planning to use a Packard shutter, be aware that the back end of the I-37 sticks out a full inch beyond the front surface of the flange, and will interfere with the shutter unless you can separate them.</p>

    <p>Also, the Soviet designers, answering to different manufacturing goals than you would wish, set the rear cell directly into the barrel, i.e., you cannot unscrew it. The same situation applies to the 210mm I-51 (flange: M60x0.75), but not (fortunately for those of us who use big cameras) the 450mm I-11M (flange: M71x1.00). If you want to mount the I-37 into a shutter, you'll have to mount the rear elements into a cell of your own manufacture.</p>

    <p>Any other questions?</p>

    <p>Charley</p>

     

    need to fix a grafmatic film holder

    in Large Format

    Posted

    I copied these instructions for disassembling a grafmatic off a website years ago. I've never tried it. Hope it helps somebody sometime.

    <BR>

    Charley

    <BR><B>

     

     

    To remove the index wheel proceed as follows: READ ALL STEPS FIRST! <BR>

    1). Remove spectrums <BR>

    2). Place dark slide handle facing you with dark slide up. <BR>

    3). Locate and remove screws on the sides of the frame closest to you. <BR>

    4). Slide inner housing from outer housing. NUT PLATES THAT SCREWS ATTACHED TO WILL COME OUT! Pay attention to their position for reinstallation. <BR>

    5). Hold dark slide lock wheel and remove its screw. SPRING AND SMALL BALL ARE UNDERNEATH! Also there is a brass washer. <BR>

    6). Carefully lift lock wheel off and remove ball and spring. <BR>

    7). Remove screw from other end of the same plate. <BR>

    8). Remove dark slide end plate; lock lever and dark slide may have to be manipulated. <BR>

    9). Position as in step 2 and pull dark slide out as far as it will go. Push in slightly and feel (find) catch lip on right far edge bottom of dark slide. A 5/16 square block on a spring engages the dark slide lip to prevent it from coming out. <BR>

    10). Insert a .020 to .025 feeler gage (or something similar) between the dark slide and the spring loaded retainer block, and remove the dark slide. <BR>

    11). Lift index wheel off its spindle. <BR>

    12). Hold down dark slide retainer block and reinstall dark slide in its slots and push past retainer. <BR>

    13). Continue to reassemble in reverse order. A small dab of Lubriplate or white lithium grease applied to the bottom of the dark slide lock wheel will aid in holding steel ball in place. Screw has a sholder that wheel must set on to function properly.<BR>

    Ilex #4 shutter size?

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Cyr:

     

    Never used it. I got it in a package deal - Ilex #3, 4 & 5 shutters, all with Caltars mounted in them. I bought the group just to mount other lenses in the shutters. I've have shot the 14 3/4" (375mm) a couple of times, though, and from that suspect the Caltars are underrated and good bargains.

     

    Charley

    XXX Morocco Leather - Speed Graphic

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Talas is a very reputable, reliable supplier of bookbinding materials, and a joy to browse at, despite their warehouse-like atmosphere. I've bought a number of pieces of skiver (baby goat skin) from them. I've never tried to make a bellows with skiver, but some of it certainly seems thin enough. How big a bellows? Baby goats are a lot smaller than cows.

     

    I've used skiver to replace camera coverings. You should be aware that you can get it either "natural" (my term - I don't recall how they refer to it), i.e., it looks and feels like very thin leather, or you can get it "processed" (again, my terminology), i.e., somehow pressed into a very uniform thickness, with a very uniform surface pattern and texture and a stiffer, somewhat cardboard-like feel. This latter product, sort of the chicken mcnuggets of leather, would seem to be closest to (and perhaps, to my limited knowledge, is) leatherette.

     

    All that said, Talas also sells an expensive machine called a Scharf-Fix paring machine, which is used to (slooooowly) thin leather. Another, cheaper way of thinning a piece leather is by simply sanding the back of it. Messy, but it works.

     

    BTW, Talas sells nice bookbinders tape (in colors!) that works very well as a filmholder hinge.

     

    Call them. They're friendly.

     

    Charley

    Identify two old plate cameras with Wollensak lenses

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Craig:

     

    Assuming the lens originally came in that shutter, the three scales would indicate the lens is a triple convertible: one scale for using both cells, one scale for using only the rear cell, and one scale for using only the front cell (usually mounted in place of the rear cell. Many, but certainly not all, RRs have identical front and rear cells, and would thus not be triple convertible. Was there any indication that the lens was a Wide Angle RR? These had different front and rear cells.

     

    If you come across a black view camera, you always have to suspect it might be a Seneca. See: http://www.fiberq.com/cam/seneca.htm Note the design of the rear frame hinge. That tends to be a good way to identify a Seneca.

     

    Charley

    My Satin Snow Glasses

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Just a data point: I also received a GG from Dave that was too small. To my knowledge, I supplied the dimensions of the original GG - exactly 12X20 inches. The GG I received was correct on the 20 inch side, but short by 1/8th to 3/16th inch on the other side. It was not uniformly short, i.e., it was shorter on one end than the other. When placed into the back frame, one of the spring clips did not engage the glass at all.

     

    I immediately contacted Dave, who ultimately offered to replace the GG, if I returned the short one. Since the GG cost $100 and Dave had paid $25 to ship it, this didn't seem economical. I was considering ordering another 12x20 and cutting the 'bad' one up for an 11x14, when Dave's recent personal tragedy occurred. I ended up machining a piece of mahogany to hold the glass in.

     

    Charley

    disassembling old LF lens

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    As a source for camera repair tools, I've not found a better one than Micro-Tools: http://www.micro-tools.com

     

    I looked in vain on their site for the tool that I would recommend - one that I've always referred to as a strap-wrench. The one I have is marked, "Newline"; I'm fairly certain I bought it from them. Perhaps someone else can suggest an alternate source.

     

    A strap-wrench is just a handle with a strip of rubber mounted on it so as to form an adjustable loop at the end. It allows you to generate considerable torque without leaving a mark. It's the type of wrench used, for instance, to change a car's oil filter.

     

    Good luck!

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