nee_sung

There are slave flashes made for digital cameras with pre-flash on the market. Nissin and Metz are two that I know of.

I uploaded some samples for dpreview, but members here are welcomed to look at them:

 

http://sungnee.smugmug.com/gallery/324422

 

There has been no post-processing except rotation. All images were hand-held using the kit lens. Sharpness, saturation, etc have been set to below middle, so as to enable members to try various post-processing on their own. If you download the "original" size you should be able to see the exif, which has all the details.

 

I found the kit lens to be very good and, since the native ISO is 200, the kit lens tranlates to an F2.4-4 lens for ISO 100; not bad at all.

Hello everybody

 

I am looking for a software that can correct the effect of a

wide-angle lens.

 

My wife and I went to a studio where they take photos of you in costumes.

 

I looked at the lens and it was a 28-105 lens (135 film). The studio

was small and in order to take a full length portrait, I think the

photographer used 28mm. My wife is short. She was already telling the

photographer to lower the camera but the tripod was already at its

lowest. Anyway, the pitures came out and her head was large and her

body small. So I am now instructed to look for a software that will

correct this effect. A photoshop plug-in will also do.

 

Thank you all in advance.

Porn is art, too.

I would have bought it had they put back the self-timer (that's how the M6 was achieved, by putting the battery in the self-timer housing, of the M4).

 

As it is I don't think they even bothered.

>>Why does these filters seem more popular with large format cameras? Are large format cameras more inclined to vignetting, or are large format photographers more fussy?<<

 

 

Not more inclined to vignetting. Jut more fussy; and they use a tripod most of the time, so slower shutter speeds is not a problem.

 

You wouldn't be using large format unless you want the absolute quality anyway.

Thanks.

 

Before I got your reply I called the local Epson office and they told me XP's got its own built-in driver. I un-installed the NT 4.0 driver and the computer auto-detected the printer and installed the correct driver.

 

It works now, but I found there is no preview function in the built-in driver.

I shoot both M and R. M for 24 years and R for 22. The photos coming out of the two systems are different. Same person. Same brand. Same lens design philosophy.

 

I think it boils down to the different feelings you have when you hold a range-finder as opposed to an SLR. This has to do both with the tactile sense that the thing you have in your hands gives you, to the image you see from the view-finder, to the fact that with a range-finder, you are more aware of your surroundings when you press the shutter, and through to not so tightly cropping with a range-finder (because the view-finder forces you to, especially with the longer lenses).

 

As for the great pros, they are not affected by the equipment they have in their hands because they are shooting to the image they have in their minds, and not what they are actually seeing. Either that, or they carefully select their for-display images to ensure there is no drifting of style. Probably the latter when they first switched.

Hello everybody

 

Today I upgraded to a new computer running on Windows xp. My Epson

2000P could not print complete image files. Printing would stop before

completion. What has been printed looked fine, though.

 

The Test Page came out fine. Larger files had smaller portions

printed. So obviously a memory problem. But I don't know how to fix it!

 

BTW it printed fine with the previous computer running on Windows

98SE. No problem all these years.

 

Help!

I am in exactly the same position as Robert.

I have this camera, but bought brand new in 2002. I have not noticed any vignetting at F5.6 at all. In fact I was amazed the first time I saw the photos.

 

Assuming that the lens has not been improved upon since the late 80's, then I think you should take the camera in for a check-up.

 

Good luck! :-)

My serial noumber starts with 168...

 

I have no idea what you are talking about. I am the first hand owner. I have had no problem with the meter in the past 18 years.

 

I haven't even heard that there is a problem with the meter until your post. :-)

The distortion on the 80 is not acceptable for portraits of family members, because they will not look right to you. For commercial work (i.e. models, etc) it's entirely acceptable. The contrast is extremly high, thus it appears to be very sharp.

 

It was meant for the same kind of situation as the Noctilus, i.e. in-door available-light situations. Thus the emphasis was on contrast. The design is the same as that of the 75mm for the Leica M. They made it 75mm on the M so that the lens does not obstruct the view-finder too much. For the R, Leitz much preferred to extend the focal length to 90mm but the lens would then be gigantic. So they copmpromised to 80mm.

 

I had the 80 for about 18 years. I sold it recently, not because it's inferior, but to make space in my dry box for new gear. I made a promise to my wife that my photo equipment will not grow out of the present dry box.

 

The photos are very characterful and "arty", mainly because of the extremly high contrast. The colour is warm and thus it tends to give a happy mood to the scene. So depending on the mood you want to depict it may or may not be desirable. It is also flattering on fair skin. Leica lenses do tend to have an uplifting kind of emotion, which is why many people use it for B&W only, because the majority of emotive scenes worthy of photograph tend to have negative emotions: privation, suffering, etc. In terms of resolution, I don't think the 80 excels.

My suggestions:

 

1. Let your son take pictures of you. Try to put on all kinds of faces/poses. Make him laugh. He'll learn from you (to relax, have fun and make faces/poses). Then when you photograph him, you'll get great shots. Never mind the technical or artistic aspects.

 

2. Show him all kinds of people's photos. My parents keep on saying that I was born knowing how to pose in front of a camera (I do, ever since I knew how to walk). I think I got it from looking at all those magazines they had lying about the house. We had no television when I was small (oops, gave away my age). I think your son would learn a lot from those photos.

 

3. Enjoy your moments together. Every minute is different. If you lose it, you lose it forever. The photos are secondary. Memories (correct or not) is more important. I sacrificed my career to spend some time everyday with my daughter when she was growing up, and I have absolutely no regrets whatsoever. The incredible card she gave me when she was 19 (thanking me for being the best father anyone could ever wish for), was a tremendous bonus. So take it from a happy father.

In order for us to be constructive...

 

You have to tell us details of the camera, lens, aperture, shutter speed, film (any push/pull as well as development details), the environ of the shoot (e.g. ambient lighting, indoors/oudoors, etc), flash details and what you want to say with your photograph.

 

You also have to tell us how you scanned it and any digital processing that you have done: the scanner model, scan settings, digital processing software used, e.g. Photoshop, what processing was done (the exact sequence of processing is important) as well as the downsize process (I am assuming you downsized it for the internet).

 

But most important of all is what you want to say. If you just want to record a moment of your son's life then no critique is needed. If that is the purpose then I'd say it's perfect. Just make sure you jot down the exact day, time and place. It'll be priceless in 20 year's time when you show it to his wife (or your grandchildren!)

Thanks. I must clarify that I have not used the mirror lock up. :-}

 

This is the first time I handle it after buying it. I think somebody must have tempered with it previously.

 

Anyway everything seems to be fine now. :-)

Thank you all. :-))

John

 

I think the "T" is in the normal position (with the letter "N" visible). I now also found that even if I pushed the "T" to the "T" position, the sutter still closes. Futhermore, setting shutter speed to 8 seconds doesn't make the shutter open for 8 seconds. The shutter still closes almost immediately.

 

What can be happening?

Well NeatImage has not responded up till now. Maybe I did it the wrong way. I bought it from a re-seller in the UK (I don't know why I did that, I'm in Hong Kong). Maybe I should contact the re-seller instead?

I am practising using the camera, with the exposure switch set to "M".

 

However, I found that after I have released the shutter, I could not move the film advance lever and the shutter release button couldn't be pushed. After a while a high pitch noise came from the camera. When the noise stopped, I could move the lever and release the shutter. Was that a battery low signal?

 

I've looked through the manual and I could not find anything on it.

 

Thanks.

Hi everybody

 

I have just bought an RZ body(used) with 90mm(used) and 180mm

soft-image(new) lenses.

 

I have never used Mamiya RZ/B cameras before. Any advice, tips,

warnings, etc, will be greatly appreciated.

 

Please do not do any research, and I will not ask you to justify your

answer by any objective data, logical deduction, citation of

authority, etc, etc. Just tell me your feelings.

 

Thank you all in advance.

Dear William

 

I am from outside the US. So due to time zone differences I won't be able to call them.

 

But you're right also, I'll call the local distributor.

Hello everybody

 

I have just bought a new computer and I need to install Photoshop CS

on it. At the moment I have Photoshop CS on my old computer and I need

to move it to the new computer. I haven't done anything to the new

computer (in fact it's not even unpacked!).

 

I heard that there is problem because you have to get an unlock code

from Adobe via the internet; and Adobe will not give you a new unlock

code because it will say that that copy of Photoshop CS is already

registered on another computer.

 

What to do? Please help. I will of course remove Photoshop CS from the

old computer. And so I have to migrate all the settings plus all the

plug-ins that I have installed.

 

My Operating System is Windows XP Professional.

 

Thank you all in advance.

Last night I upgraded NeatImage but in my stupidity I un-installed the

3.x version without taking down the registration info.

 

I could not register the new NeatImage and an e-mail to NeatImage went

unanswered.

 

I am just thinking whether it is worth buying it again: I also have

Noise Ninja and Kodak GEM Pro and Noise Reduction from Focus Fixer ( I

do get carried away sometimes).

 

Any comments and advice will be greatly appreciated. Please do not do

any research, just give me your feelings. I will not ask you to

justify them by any subjective data, logic, authority, etc, etc...

 

Thank you all in advance.

Hi everybody

 

My dealer is pressing me to take delivery of the Epson 4000, which I

ordered some time ago. I am having a table made for my digital dark

room and I haven't gotten round to having it made, which is why I am

trying to hold off taking delivery.

 

I would just like to know the position in which the paper roll is

placed. Is it on top? or is it like the mainframe computer printers

where paper is fed from underneath? As you will appreciate this will

have a bearing on the shape of my table.

 

Are there any pictures I can get from the net?

 

Thank you all in advance.