werner1

Andrew do some checking both with Sony/ Konica and with reputable repair shops. I had the same thing happen to an XTSI after I dropped it onto the concrete. Minolta Canada Quoted something around $130.00 Canadian to put on a new back. A local repair shop was able to order a back without the electronics and simply switch them over.( even though Minolta told me I could not just buy a back without the electronics). They did the job for less than half of what Minolta wanted to charge. There is however more electronics in the 7 back than the XTSI, but its worth a shot. GOOD LUCK.

Richard that's a tough choice. I am not the person you were looking for regarding advice as I do not own the 9, but do own the the 7. For the last three years I have shot mainly Medium format and use that 95% of the time. When I do use the 7 I am always awestruck regarding the technological finesse of this camera. The Maxum 7 is BAR NONE the MOST sophisticated camera Minolta ever built. I also use the VC7 and find it an essential ingredient to to the overall beauty of this system. Having said that, I am always on the lookout for a 9. It is the last PRO camera that Minolta ever made, and is built to take along to the Amazon. You did not mention if price was a factor, the 9 will usually sell for more. If price is not a factor in the choice then I would go for the 9. The grip is extremely useful, and if your looking for nostalgia then with gentle use it should last forever. If it has not been updated it will not have the D capabilities, but frankly I don't see this as being an issue at all. While overall the the 7 has more features the 9 still has faster FPS, and I believe holds more data regarding exposure info. The 9 is I believe a classic and if you have a choice of either irregardless of price and the 9 has a grip then go for the 9. That would be My choice. Let us know which way you went.

Chris is right, while it is a generous offer, don't hold your breath. There will be so much going on in the two short weeks that they will be there that your friend would probably not be able to take the time to make a purchase for himself let alone for another.

What a great site. Thanks! I would love to find more sites of this calliber if anyone knows of any.

I am thinking about a teleconverter for my PRO TL. One look at KEH

and the amount of converters from different manufacturers is

overwhelming. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding the quality

of aftermarket converters compared to Mamiya converters? If you look

at the prices at KEH the aftermarket all seem to be similar in

price. Are the Mamiya converters that much better to command double

the price? Thanks for any suggestions. Werner

Hang on Roland, the ride is just beginning. Once you�ve shot a few Keepers and blow them up to 11x14 or bigger there will be no going back. Pretty soon (after you have added a few more lenses to the RB) you will start to think the RB is a little heavy for �grab and run� candid shots. Of course going back to 35mm just won�t do anymore. You will have to add a 645 system as well. I am not speaking from experience of course, just observations. By the way, a split prism makes focusing a lot easier. Have fun, the process of slowing down did more than anything else to improve my photography. Using a tool that is capable of absolutely stunning results did not hurt either.

Larry, I use some of the Tamrac lense bags on my Lowepro backpacks. The Tamrac Tongues are a little wider than the Lowepro, but they can be fit on. Once you get the tongue past the velcro part there is enough play for it to curl a bit, just enough so it works. This does not make for quick slip on and off though. I would assume that the belt is the same size loop as on the backpacks. I don't have one so can't compare. By the way the 777 IS a GREAT bag. I also have a lowepro PRO trekker for my mamiya RZ stuff which I love but the quality of the 777 can't be beat.

Why do the Dry-fits self destruct? Is it because they are being sucked dry beyond thier normal empty point? Does the same hold true for Ni-Cads? Sorry for all the questions but this thread is proving very helpfull. Thanks!

Thanks Ric. One other question. I could not find anything in the Metz manual or the site regarding charging times. How long do you charge each battery type? Is there a protection or limiter in the charger that prevents overcharging? Thanks!

Which are better and why? I just bought a Metz 60 ct-4, it came with

a NiCad battery. I notice that the dry-fits seem to be more

desirable. Do they last longer, or simply have more power. I have

had great luck with Makita Ni-cad batteries for cordless drills

lasting almost a decade. Thanks, as I am looking into buying a spare

battery.

I use +1.25 cheaters for reading so I tried the +1 diopter. I couldn't see a thing and went back to standard -1.5. I could not figure out why. Glad i'm not the only one who had problems.

Thanks for the responses; I have found it difficult to find much on these lenses even on the Mamiya site, so any help is appreciated. I still don�t know which way to go. The weight is of some concern. Maybe I will see if I can rent one for a day to help make up my mind. THANKS to all. Werner

I am thinking about adding a 55-110 zoom for my PRO TL. My question

for those who have used them is 1). How is the image quality 2).

Is weight of lense an issue? 3) Is 4.5 f stop dark to focus

with?

My main reason for considering the zoom, are for times when I

just want to grab the camera and go, without carrying a bunch of

lenses or other paraphernalia. I currently have the 80mm and the

150mm. For landscapes and portraits I use an RZ 67, the PRO TL is

mainly for candids and traveling. I know I will get the "why don't

you just shuffle your feet forward or back?", which is fine if your

shooting at a wedding but for traveling I find sometimes standing on

one side of a fence, railing, or cliffs edge, makes a zoom pretty

handy. Thanks, Werner

Gilles, I think you got an amazing deal for a NEW SV11 package. Adorama is asking $2399.00 for the same package. Bueh it seems is talking in English Pounds, which works out to more than $1000.00 U.S., as well he is probably referring to a used unit not a new one. Regarding lense choice, I can not help you as I am in the same boat; I recently picked up a used TL with an 80mm and have just added a 150mm. My biggest dilemma is that the 55 may not be wide enough but the thought of buying a whole set of new filters for the other wide angles is leaning me towards the 55mm as it also uses 58mm filters. The other wide angles use 67mm and 77mm respectively. When you consider the cost of doubling your filter collection, you could easily spend that amount on a used 150mm lense. Have fun with your new toy, It won't make you a better photographer but when you get a good one the difference is amazing.

Tony, I went through the same dilemma before Christmas as I use the RZ as well and was getting fed up with trying to use it handheld. I opted for the Mamiya Pro TL. I chose the TL over the Pro because of the TTL capability which makes it more like my Minolta 7 in use, (read quick and brainless). While it is not autofocus I find it incredibly quick and easy to focus, MUCH faster than the RZ. Even my aging eyes which now require reading glasses have no problem focusing with the regular diopter. Another thing to consider is that many accessories that fit on the RZ will work with the Pro TL. Items such as the electro magnetic cable release, external battery, infrared remote, and front thread cable release. If you really want autofocus there is the AF but the accessories are not interchangeable and the lenses etc. are much more expensive. So far I am really pleased with the Pro, its light weight and ease of use allows me to get those candid family shots that were so hard with the RZ. Having been spoiled by the RZ I now have a camera that I can use for travel or day outings and still retain the benefits of medium format.

Zac, I have been using an RZ for the last couple of years, and love it. Last month I added a PRO TL. I use the RZ for portraits and landscapes, the PRO TL I use for handheld or just lightweight traveling. I find it easy to see a difference between the two negatives. The RZ gives absolutely brilliant 11X14 even using ASA 400 film. However it's a big camera, and when hand held I get better results with the PRO simply because of the lack of weight. Having both pretty well fills all my needs. But if I could only have one I would stick with the RZ and go back to using my 35mm for handheld stuff.

Terry, I am in the same boat. I own an RZ 67 and am thinking about a proTL simply because the RZ is too heavy and slow to get those candid family shots. I agonized between that and a Mamiya 6 or 7, but liked the idea of a curtain shutter capable of 1/1000 and TTL capability. The Pro TL is small enough that I can grab it and go on a family outing without the need for a huge bag. If I could afford it, I would go with the Mamiya 645 AF as it behaves like a big 35mm SLR. Your future options with the 645 AF and digital are wide open as well (i.e. Digital backs). I would never get rid of the RZ though, or your RB, for Portraits and landscapes it can�t be beat.

JD, that�s tough for anyone to answer because we all have our own style and preferences. I carry a 50, 90, 180 and 360! Every time I go for a walk I am tempted to take the 360 out of the pack, because I use it so rarely. I never do, and put up with the weight. My walks are only 2 to 5 miles, not all day hikes. The one landscape that I have finally decided to blow up large and hang above my mantle I took with the 360, so now I am even less likely to take it out of the pack. Having said that, I would keep the 110 for now. Get the 50 and think about a 180 with a 1.4 teleconverter. You cannot use the teleconverter with the 50 (90mm and up) but with the 180 it would give you a 255mm. From there you can decide which lenses serve you the best. While it is true you will lose some sharpness with a teleconverter attached, your results will still be much sharper than cropping from a larger image. I plan on getting a converter myself as it is cheap and light way to add a lot of lenses to your system.

Kimberly, Get the 5600 HSD with it's wireless function and high guide number you will have all the flash you need for your needs. you can set it up with an umbrella and use wireless (assuming the 7D is similar to plain 7}. The Aliens are great in a studio used in Manual mode, But try Duct taping one to the side of your 7D and you'l see what I mean. Regards Werner.

J.K. I don't know where you read that but the silver end that trips the shutter is what flips up the mirror. The black end then trips the shutter in the lense.

Patrick, I have been using Lowepros for almost thirty years and love them. Last year I picked up a Tamrac 777 used at swap meet. This is a bulletproof bag that is made to take the weight. I carry an RZ body, four lenses including a 360mm, 2 backs, AE prism, two light meters, filters, and film. This is only possible by having four side pockets strapped to the sides. The arrangement can make the bag somewhat wide at times. The plus side is that I add and take away equipment by swapping side pouches (i.e. extenders). By removing the pouches and putting them in your suitcase the 777 will fit into an overhead. Having said all that I am still looking to move up either to a Tamrac 787 or Lowepro PRO trekker. (Both of which I think are too big for overheads). I am leaning towards the 787 as I am so impressed with its smaller brother. Whichever one I get I would never get rid of the 777 as it would provide me with another option for trips where I don't want to carry everything.

P.S. Rick if you have any more questions regarding the RZ you will probably get a better response posting in the Medium Format page.

Rick, The biggest difference between the PRO and PROII is the II has a fine focusing wheel and the shutter can be set in half stop increments. Any RZ film back will work in either camera. The PRO II prism will work in either camera, However if you want to use the regular pro prism on a PRO II it will need to be re-calibrated. (Around a hundred bucks at Mamiya America.) Regarding the winders the RZ winder will only work on the regular RZ. You need the winder II to work on the RZ PRO II. If your going to use the prism a lot it works in 1/3 or 1/6 increments (I can't remember which) in either camera regardless if you can set the camera in half stops or not. Personally I like being able to set the camera in half stop increments as I don't use the prism very much. The fine focusing wheel can be handy sometimes as well. In the end it comes down to budget, both cameras are just a box. If you shoot mainly print film there is enough latitude in the film that where you get your prints done have a greater bearing than whether your camera can be set in half stops or not. If your moving up from 35mm your in for a treat. Good luck in your choice

This is a follow up from a post I made several months ago. I have an

Agfa Isolette 2 with a Agnar 4.5 85mm lense. I purchased several

series 5 filters for it, but they did not come with the adapter. My

question then, what size thread adapter will fit on this lense? The

adapter as I understand it will allow for the series 5 to slip on

the front. Thanks for any responses.

Bryan, maybe this will help. I have not used the system myself, but I have been thinking about trying it for the coloured cards. http://www.charlescampbell.com/chromazone/index.html