maxmalossini

<p>If I use split toning (in lightroom 2.3) can I still print using the abw mode? Well, I know I can but what about the split tone colors?<br>

More specifically, let's say I use split tone to give my image a warmer feel, so it's kind of yellowish.<br>

Does the image have to be set to Grayscale in Lightroom for Epson ABW mode to "kick in"?<br>

What if I desaturate all colors except one, should I then print in color mode?<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Thank you.<br>

I do indeed use just a few presets made by myself, just to get a good reliable starting point.<br>

I too am skeptical about all of these (often uninteresting) presets. So I think I will stay away from them.<br>

One thing I did benefit when trying some of these presets is that I discovered how to render a certain look. I had that look in my mind, but wasn't sure how to achieve it in LR.</p>

<p>Lightroom 2.3<br>

I'm discovering all these free [or for sale] presets everywhere, sometimes they come as downloadable packets of hundreds!<br>

What do you think is the most efficient way to test them [and dispose of those you don't like]?<br>

Is it even worth spending time testing all of these presets? Is there an objectively-better-presets place to go?<br>

for the "purists": I know you can do yourself everything any preset does [just as you can make your own wine, bread, clothes etc...], but saving time is valuable to me. Also, you can actually learn from looking into how a certain preset is made, then make your own modifications.<br>

Thanks, Max.</p>

<p>June, a bit off topic, but since this _is_ a good shot, why not try a bw conversion?</p>

<p>Rating is mainly about your personal opinion, and I'm glad you like the photo.<br>

For example I don't think too much of it, not only for lack of originality but esthetically speaking the subject is badly lit, with face and eyes darker than shoulders/body.<br>

I do really like several other images of the same photographer, though.<br>

Again, just personal taste here, I'm not an art ctritic (thank goodness:)</p>

<p>I don't know how to answer your question, but if you allow me, I will ask one:<br>

why do you do test prints? is it because your final print is going to be huge and so very expensive in case of waist? Or is it because you want to keep tweaking until you get the best possible?<br>

And, is it ok to use one paper for test prints and another for final prints? What consistency can you expect?<br>

I don't mean to be "smart" or rude, I am really asking because I don't know, since I am so new to digital printing. I've used my new r2880 for a month now and am very happy, although I know there is room for improvement.<br>

Thank you. Max</p>

<p>And don't forget to update to version 2.3, greatly improved.<br>

No, I would not use any other software, just let LR do the job, even when it comes to moving photos within your files.</p>

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<p>You can also make any state your "before" state, just right click on it in the history panel and you'll see the otion. This way it's easy (because more easily identifiable) to go back to that "before" state if you don't like what you did after.</p>

<p>If you open the history panel, you'll all the states. pick the state you want to go back to and right click on that state. You should see the option of making that your current state, thus erasing all settings done after that point.<br>

(don't have access to lr right now so I'm not sure what the right click menu says, but the overall idea is correct).<br>

Hope this works, Max</p>

<p>Actually, the Ilford is the cheapest (2.23 per 13x19 sheet), but the Epson is the most expensive of all ($4.39 per sheet).</p>

<p>I am testing five papers for black and white prints on my epson r2880:<br>

Epson exib. fiber, hahnemuhle fine art baryta, premierart platinum rag, ilford galerie gold fiber silk, harman warmtone fb al gloss (they all came with a "bw sample packet" purchased from Atlex.com).<br>

All of them are beautiful (the biggest surprise for me was the platinum rag, may be only suitable for some types of photos, but what a neat paper!).<br>

Anyway, this is what happened: both the Epson and the Ilford came out with two or three marks (in the direction of the moving heads), like ink was smudged by the moving head. These strikes are several inches long, and noticeable at close inspection.<br>

Is it just a coincidence/accident or are these two papers prone to these kind of happenings? It would be a shame since they are the cheapest two of the bunch!<br>

By the way, I AM using correct icc profiles available online, although being these bw prints maybe I didn't even need them? But I selected them anyway, because I thought may be they affect the amount of ink going on the print..<br>

This is my first experience with quality inkjet papers.<br>

Thank you, Max</p>

<p>emergency question: I am about to print on exibition fiber, I downloaded the profile, but in the printer properties page I don't know what to choose for media type. All the fine art options are not clickable (because I have the photo black cartridge?) and the regular photo papers have glossy, semi-glossy and luster. which one should I choose?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Thank you Tim.<br>

I improved and re-uploaded the same photos (both in the paper and romanruins folder).<br>

They are much better now.<br>

On the other side, the roman ruins are scans from bw negs, so all white balance optionjs were not available and I went with the split toning.<br>

I'm not sure about future workflow procedures because I always convert to grayscale (either with saturation or with the grayscale panel in LR). So I guess the white balance is not an option anymore since I am in grayscale now?</p>

<p>I am thinking about purchasing a eye-one LT monitor calibration device. I am not happy with spyder 2 (the cheap version) because it does not calibrate luminance/brightness, and luminance is my major, almost only, issue (colors are fine, but luminance of screen is way off compared to prints).<br>

QUESTION for eye-one LT users:<br>

does eye-one LT calibrate luminance?<br>

It's not clear from their website, although in one of the FAQ's it seems like it does.<br>

A YES/NO answer will do. Thank you, Max</p>

 

<p>I am trying to find a reliable way to apply a warmer tone to some of my photos (all b&w).<br>

I tried to do this during the printing process using the r2880 warm tone option once in the printer dialog. It works really well, but this is not a lightroom edit, in other words I can only see its effects only if printed.<br>

So I thought the other way to do this is to use split tone in the develop module. Probably I'm not good enough at this yet, but I couldn't get just a slight warm tone to the whole thing, it came up to be a bit too yellowish (you can check my folder "paper" to see what I mean). Some other photos did though turn out better (roman ruins folder).<br>

So, is using the split tone panel the way to go and I just have to get better? Or is there another/better way to warm your images?<br>

Thanks, Max</p>

<p>I signed up to participate in that around-the-world-project several years ago, but never received any camera :(<br>

Anyway, I'd like to be part in this project. Where/how do we share our info?</p>

<p>I'm still learning, too. But one thing I can tell you: do not modify your folders anymore from outside of lightroom. ANY changes you make to your folders or folders structure, do them from within LR. Actually folders will slowly become less and less important as you start to use collections (more flexible and don't mess with the physical folder structure).<br>

I too lost [may be?] some editing of images. Sometimes I touch the wrong key or shortcut and all of the sudden I'm in a completely new/wrong environment and I don't know how to go back. I wish there was a "go to previous screen/status" that would override anything else from anywhere. ctrl-z doesn't do it.<br>

As for "Also, when you 'develop' a file in LR does it create a new image?", no, LR does not create a new file, just a new set of instructions to be applied to the file. If you want to forever-preserve your edited image I suggest you export it either in a new format or in the original format, but get it out of there for good, don't even let your current catalog see it! or you will eventually "bump into" the same image that you thought was "final" and now you end up editing it again and changing what you wanted to be your finished product.<br>

By the way, this process is costless because you still have your original (raw or whatever) file wherever it was stored originally. Unless of course you physically over-rode the original file, but LR will make sure you really want to do that.<br>

I can't help you about PS, since I don't use it.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>sorry for the typo above: in the paragraph before the last: Even IF you can find them,.....</p>

<p>Unfortunately I believe your files are gone for good. What you are seeing in LR is the preview that was generated when you first imported the photos into LR. I think the previews generated by lightroom are (small) jpegs. They should reside inside the LR main folder, under previews or thumbnails cache? I'm not sure, I don't have accesss to LR right now. Even you can find them, I don't think they are usable, due to their size.<br>

Also, these previews are defaulted to have a "short life", because LR will automatically delete them after #days, unless you choose not to.</p>

<p>I think I'm going back to one catalog and make stronger use of collections.<br>

Godfrey, so unlike many other posters, you prefer to work on an image and "get it over with" by exporting to tiff and to another "completed work" catalog. The other posters I'm referring to said that I can just stay inside lr for everything and for ever, meaning printing, publishing...and never worry about exporting/saving to any different format.<br>

I like your idea of "completed work" because once you have something final, converting it to tiff and getting it out of the way prevents the risk of going back to that same image and accidentally (or not) changing it again and again.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>I noticed some members' name show up in forums with their city right under the name.<br>

How can I add my city (Philadelphia) to my name so that other members can quickly see where I am writing from? In some instances this could be helpful, for example if you ask/answer questions about retailers, workshops or such.<br>

Thank you,<br>

Max.<br>

Philadelphia :)</p>

<p>I posted some of these photos on my gallery page. some are only being worked half way, so you could see the dust in half the image and the other half is "clean". May be you can't see it because of the extreme jpg compression (the tiff scans are very large: 23 mb each).<br>

Ben, you are correct, with both clone and heal you can choose the source, and it works great. You usually want to choose the source in mixed areas, and let lr be smart in areas that are uniform and not border areas. If you don't like what LR chose for source you can show all the healing spots by pressing H and then relocate the source for your particular spot.<br>

Tony, you are right about the computer slowing. In fact the unacceptable delay after every healing click convinced me I needed a new pc. Now it's much better with a dual 2 core and 4 gb ram. It must be a very intensive algorithm though, because when I spot quickly, jumping from one spot to another, it still is not lightning fast even with the new pc.</p>

 

<p>I am trying to find "my" best way to manage photos.<br>

I came up with using three different catalogs: family, my artsy stuff, everything else.<br>

Theoretically I would like to throw everything from the camera to the everything else catalog, then after brief editing decide what goes into the "family" and what is eligible to become "art" :). So the everything else will be left with non-art photos and non-family photos (such as friends/events/school etc).<br>

So I would have to move images from one catalog to another. It seems really hard: I would have to open the art catalog, then go to the right location on the hd disk to find those images that I elected to art and import them to the art catalog; not only that, but at this point I don't want them in the everything catalog anymore.<br>

I'm starting to think may be this is not a "best way" anymore, it seems too complicated.<br>

The problem is that I shoot somehow randomly, meaning in a week period there will be many family shots as much as many potentially artsy shots. And some of the family shots can always become artsy.<br>

Lightroom is great, but what is supposed to be its strength (organizing/archiving/naming etc) is becoming the most frustrating part of it all.<br>

If you could share any tips, that would be great.<br>

Max</p>

<p>It looks like the d90 doesn't meter on manual nikon lenses. This is actally not a big deal since I only have the 85mm f2 left as the only manual focus lens. I use df preview often, and the d90 has it, if I'm correct.<br>

also, one of my problems is that I get a lot of blurred images, so the d90 would help with that, too, given the good high iso performance.<br>

I believe the d200 is more of a workhorse/durable, but I am usually very careful with my cameras and don't do a lot of bad-weather shooting.<br>

in which other ways is the d90 less than the d200? I can only compare with my current d50 and/or my old n90s.<br>

thank you.</p>