maxmalossini

<p>So many good points.<br>

besides discussing this with a friend (I am the original poster), there is another, more unfortunate reason I want to know about this topic: all my gear was stolen (home burglary) and now I'm not sure which direction to take.<br>

I used to have a d7000 with several lenses. I only have two lenses left (sigma 105mm macro and nikon 85mm manual focus, they were stored in a less obvious place). I don't think those two lenses should force me to stay with a nikon dslr. Also I was finding myself not carrying the camera bag as often because of weight etc..<br>

That's why I'm looking into a rangefinder. Some of these camera are amazing. I plan a trip to B&H so I can try them hands on.<br>

I'm not into street or action photography, my work tends to be still subjects or landscapes, often in my "home/studio".</p>

<p>I know I must be overlooking something somewhere, but here is a question I was discussing with a friend of mine.<br>

Suppose we agree that the major reason for the invention of the slr was the mirror and the ability to look/meter through the lens, and the ability to change lenses (although some rangefinder can do that).<br>

If this is true, then now there should be no problem to see through the lens because once the image hits the sensor, it can be (electronically) transferred to the lcd screen (or wherever else you want, viewfinder etc...). We could use interchangeable lenses withouot any mirrors or curtains but just the old round shutter (the James Bond one, I forget its name) and thus have lighter hardware and more quiet operation etc...<br>

So why are dslr still superior?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Another (better?) way to see shortcuts is "ctrl/+" which shows all shortcuts for the current module.<br>

A shortcut to shortcuts.</p>

<p>Hi. I've just received my d7000 three days ago (Amazon). I took some pics but because of computer issues I haven't had a chance to check this potential focus problem. Actually, what is a "back focus issue"? What should I be looking for when I process my pics? Does it simply means out of focus?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Max</p>

<p>I can't believe it: I didn't see/feel the front dial, next to the shutter release!<br>

That's what you need to rotate to change the aperture, not the main dial, in the back. And I thought I was a detail-oriented, tech-savvy guy...<br>

Well, this is my third day with the d7000, and the d50 didn't have the front dial (not that good of an excuse though:).<br>

Thank you,<br>

Max</p>

<p>I know I'm missing something, but right now, when I insert the nikon 55/1.8 D lens, the camera does not let me change the aperture, it stays fixed at 1.8. The meter does work, but only as if f1.8 was chosen as the aperture.<br>

The setting on the lens is on the orange f22, and I even locked it in place. What am I doing wrong?<br>

Thank you,<br>

Max</p>

<p>I've just received my new d7000 and decided to try some of the fancy/convenient features. I am/was currently shooting with a d50, and use Lightroom for post-processing. I use a few nikon and tamron lenses, some with vr, two are old manual focus nikon. I think I am shooting in the same way as if I had a fe2, you know, the good old point-meter-focus-recompose with release button half-pressed.<br>

For example, I really like the idea of the two completely customizable user-defined settings. The d7000 offers 2 of these choice-settings, and from what I understand you can really, really, customize anything you can think of.<br>

Obviously the pre-settings you choose depend on the type of photography you do, but I was wondering if you could share some of the uses you do of this feature. In your opinion, what settings is worth customize? what should be left for post-processing? What did you find most useful in terms of shortcuts for making your shooting more convenient? (One big mystery for me are the AF choices).<br>

As of myself, I often (once a week) take snapshots of my young children, while otherwise I use my camera hoping to come up with more "artistic" ideas, generally using still subjects. I could also pinpoint a few issues I am generally concerned with: blurry images, focus not on subject eye, wish for more vivid colors, like to shoot low light indoor scenes...<br>

I am also willing to adjust my shooting habits, such as using one or two new buttons while I shoot, for example. (I'm thinking of the Fn button, the AF_E/L button etc...)<br>

I hope I was clear enough, and thank you in advance,<br>

Max</p>

<p>Paco, thank you. very clear, and I had not thought about the trick subject vs. background.<br>

Albert, thank you for bringing up the muslin/backdrop point.I'm afraid this is a problem to solve.<br>

I was thinking muslin for the low cost, but it would be really hard for me to put together all that frame work+paint... I do live in the US (Phila) and I'd go for a easier (even though more expensive) alternative (then I could keep it for my own use). I did check about that Sunbrella faric, and there is a vendor near me, but isn't 52'' a bit to narrow for a backdrop? Can I sew two together?<br>

On the other side, we do have some heavy weight white paper ( a huge roll, probably only 50'' wide) and that wouldn't cost us anything. Whichever backdrop I use, I was thinking it should be a one long piece so to be both behind and under the subject with no interruption? So you won't see the floor-backdrop edge. I do want a full shot, feet included.</p>

<p>I want to shoot some portraits of my colleagues teachers. The main reason/s is because I love the place I work, because I can learn about photographing people, because I like to pick one theme/subject and work on it.<br>

I have some ideas already, but the more I read (here on pn) the more I get worried about what it's going to come out of this.<br>

Equipment:<br>

nikon d50, plus a few decent lenses (nikon 50 1.8, sigma 105, nikon 85 f2 manual, tamron 28-75 2.8). I do not have an external flash (well, I do have a sb26) and I don't plan/want to use it anyway, only available light.<br>

What I want to achieve is this:<br>

bw (my almost exclusive type of photography); very white background; the subject (teacher) sitting at a student's desk. He/she can hold a book or whatever he/she wants, he/she can look at the camera or not, smile, frown, whatever they feel like. (Of course variations of this are also welcome:standing, regular chair etc...). All shots will be similar in composition, just different teacher. I can see these shots being printed on some heavy fiber paper (epson 2880) with fairly high contrast.<br>

What/where I will be working (If needed, I can post a pic of the place on Monday evening):<br>

at my school, in a fairly large Hall, with a large window-ed wall (about 30 ft by 20 ft high) facing west, the wall is actually a fifth side of this hall (think of a rectangle with one corner cut out, that extra side is the glass wall). I have a good stand for the camera, and plan to buy/borrow a large white backdrop (muslin?). I may have to take these shots in the afternoon, after school, so the light may be (not sure) kind of direct/harsh<br>

Concerns:<br>

how do i get the background to be really white, since I don't have extra lights to lit it up?<br>

Do I need reflectors, even when the natural light is not direct sun light?<br>

Is it better the subject is very near the windows or several yards away from them?<br>

[ps: I don't mind grain that much.I use Lightroom (I just bought upgrade to LR 3).]<br>

What I am asking is if you can see any particular issues I will be facing, or suggestions to make this idea happen.<br>

Thank you,<br>

Max</p>

<p>Thank you for your ideas, encouragement, and flattering feedback. I will price them (though I do understand John K's point)<br>

One cafe`will have my photos soon (couple of weeks), the other in September, for about a month each.<br>

I'll come back here and let you know how it went. A round of [virtual] drinks for everybody if they sell well!<br>

Max</p>

<p>Hi, I have the opportunity to showcase some of my photos in a local cafe`(actually two cafes). These are part of a project I've worked on for some time using only paper as the subject of each image (see the "paper" folder in my gallery).<br>

Anyway, I was not thinking about selling my photos... until the store manager told me to make sure to post a price for each image.<br>

So the question is: [assuming there is someone out there willing to pay for one of my prints] should I put them up for sale (and happily cover some of the costs) or not bother with it? These are well done, framed, 13x19 prints (archival everything). What puzzles me is that I don't think of myself as an artist, nor a photo pro, so it seems a bit unnatural.<br>

Thank you for your suggestions,<br>

Max</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I've just purchased some 20 sheets of 13x19 "premierart fine art paper, smooth velvet 300 gsm, 2800-13192, E98#5407".<br>

I'm about to print with my epson 2880, using the advanced bw mode, which I've used before with outstanding results.<br>

I usually try to get the most accurate icc profile (even if printing in bw, I read that is best to use that particular paper profile, I guess for ink quantty etc..).<br>

I can't seem to find the correct profile: I checked out the website where I buy my paper from (atlex.com) and it's not clear if I even should use the matt cartridge (I hope not, didn't plan on doing the swapping..).<br>

I also checked the premiereart website, and they don't even have the r2880 printer, but still the old r2400.<br>

Let's say I want to "forget about the profile". When in the printer dialog, what "media" (paper) should I choose? gloss, semigloss, luster?. The other options (matte, fine art) are blanked out because I don't have the matt cartridge installed).<br>

Thank you for your help.<br>

Max</p>

<p>David, I cannot really help you with your issues (I was relatively lucky with my 2880). I think nobody should go through all this unimaginable ordeal just to make some prints, I mean just look at this thread and all these opinions/experiences.<br>

These companies (computer/printers/software manufacturers) have a lot of work still to do.</p>

<p>wow, I didn't know my little d50 (bought used for $299) had such a fine little engine inside!<br>

But what about the hype about the new cmos sensor high iso performance of the d90, 300 or 700?<br>

I am still planning to upgrade, for other reasons as well as the (may be not?) better high iso performance.</p>

<p>I have a similar problem: colors in prints are not affected by brightness settings of your monitor, BUT the brightness of the print definitely is (esp. bw), and can be so frustrating.<br>

"Solution": for photo editing I have to keep my Samsung at 0 (yes, zero) brightness, and also I have to work in very dim ambient light. Only by doing so my prints come out to look like they are on the monitor, otherwise they tend to be too dark. My monitor is calibrated, but I guess the calibration software does not modify brightness ( I use the cheaper spyder2). Even if I were to use a more expensive software all it would do is to make the brightness of the lcd monitor down to zero.<br>

Luckily I found a working solution, though I don't like it so much.</p>

<p>I'm back home now. The long exposure noise reduction was on. Now it's off.<br>

I did notice that the buffer, before firing, now goes up to 4 (not a very logical change?), but as far as the speed, it's still pretty slow, may be, just may be, a bit faster. Again, with everything set to manual.<br>

I should have the high speed card in a couple of days and I'll see if that makes any difference.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>I'll check the noise reduction tonight.<br>

Lex, I don't believe there is a release priority, and anyway I think that would only apply if in autofocus.<br>

I ordered a fast car, ooops, meant card! If that wasn't the issue, I'll consider it the first part of my future d90(?).<br>

Thanks for all your help.<br>

Max</p>

<p>Exposure delay, no. But since you mention the buffer, mine shows [r03] at best, which I believe means three shots. In fact as I fire the shutter I can see the buffer going down to r02 then r01 then r00 at which point it stops releasing the shutter until the buffer goes back up to r01 or more, It takes several seconds for the buffer to go back up to two or three. Everything is still in manual and I also did a reset of the whole camera.<br>

It looks like it's a card communication issue. Possibly this is as good as it gets with the d50 in raw?</p>

<p>I'm shooting raw (only), focus is set to manual. I formatted the card (in camera) but still same behavior. I might do a general reset, although it sounds like it's only for extremely rare situations and also you should get weird messages/characters on the camera top lcd screen.<br>

How do you know if it's a high speed card? All it's written is "2.0gb, sd"<br>

It's not a very big issue for me, and I'm kind of used to it now, except sometime I miss some potentially good kids' shots. My photos are mainly still and/or portraits.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I noticed my d50 does not "let me" shoot shots quickly after one another. Okay, I thought, it must be all the auto evaluations it has to make (wb, focus, exposure etc.), so today I set everything on manual and still its behavior was erratic: in burst mode I would sometime get the three shots one after another, but not always, and in single shot mode sometime I would get two or three shots very close to each other, but some other time I would have to wait two three seconds before I could fire the next shot.<br>

I am using a 2gb kingston and also a 2gb sandisk card. I suspect the card might be the problem? Or is the d50 the problem? :)<br>

[side note: I've been eying the d90 and d300 for a while but the budget is tight for now; then today I went to visit a friend of mine, a point-and-shoot guy at best, and guess what I see on his kitchen table? A brand new d90 with a good lens! The worse part; he uses it strictly as a point-and-shoot and has no clue what "all those buttons are for"! aaggh]<br>

Max</p>

<p>Obviously I'd stay away, too. But sometime I wonder; what if I had some knowledge of current business/merchants laws (or let's say I am a lawyer), time and stress/energy to spare; couldn't I just gear up for a (legal) battle and end up with the promised deal? In other words, don't we consumers have some kind of rights, or better, don't merchants have some kind of legal obligations?<br>

Just wondering. It would feel so good to give it back to these scammers.</p>