tom_pohrte

<p>Was there yesterday morning (9/7/2011). The Aspen are still green with a hint of turning. It was overcast and misting.<br>

Picture was taken with a Fuji FinePix A330 (3meg) P&S.</p><div></div>

<p>The old cable release I have didn't seem to screw in correctly/securely but it does trip the shutter.<br>

Thanks again.</p>

<p>I have just received an F4 with the MB20 grip (non-S). There is a remote shutter release socket on the lower left corner of the camera body. What is the release cable that fits this connection?<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have many rolls of film that are about 10 years out of date and stored at room temperature.<br>

<br /> My Ektachrome 100SW shifted slightly magenta. Fine if you scan and color correct it but no good for projection. I tossed all dozen rolls of it.<br>

<br /> My Velvia has held up reasonably well.<br>

<br /> I just shot a roll of Portra 160VC and had it scanned to a CD. The colors look fine.<br>

<br /> Likewise, several rolls of Kodak Gold 100 and 200 held up reasonably well.<br>

<br /> Bottom line: Shoot a roll and see.<br>

<br /> Enjoy</p>

The 28-135 IS is the only lens I use on my Elan 7E. This is my "Point And Shoot" system along with a 420EX flash. I generally hand-hold and use IS.

I am quite pleased with it. My lens does have some "Barrel Distortion" wide open, however.

Enjoy

From Hilo, drive south to Hwy 130 then follow 130 as far as it goes. (Lava flows cut this road off some years back.) You will encounter a series of flows over the road that are passable by auto. At the end of 130, you will find a booth with an employee of the County of Hawaii. For a fee, they will allow you access on foot across the lava flow marked with spray paint to the ocean's edge where lava flows into the sea.

If you are going to do this after dark, bring a good flashlight. The sun is quite intense except when it rains, which is frequent. Wear appropriate gear and hiking shoes. Bring drinking water.

Depending on a lot of factors, you will see orange lava flowing into the sea making huge clouds of steam. Because of the distance, bring a telephoto lens (200+) and tripod.

Caveat: We did this in December 2001. I don't know what the current conditions/access are.

(The photo is from a Nikon 950 Digital P&S at its max optical zoom.)<div></div>

Correction: Aspen is actually Southeast of Glenwood Springs on Hwy 82 (not North). (I should know this having lived in Glenwood Springs for 3 years once upon a time :)

Check the Denver TV Channel 9 web site for the latest wildfire info.

www.9news.com

Find a copy of Scenic Driving Colorado (A Falcon Guide) by Stewart Green.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1560444517/qid=1024149946/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/104-5872030-2427168

Breckenridge is on Hwy 9 out of Fairplay. Hwy 50 to Salida, 291 North to Hwy 24 just before Buena Vista. East on 24 to Hwy 285, North on 285 to Fairplay, then North on 9 in Fairplay.

To get to Aspen, drive I70 to Glenwood Springs (currently on fire) then North on 82. (Independence Pass is the quickest route. A B210 will make up--just not very fast :)

Enjoy

If you are (sometime in the future) interested in the PS 110mm f/4.5 macro, you may find this post useful:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000Txp

Enjoy

A different opinion. If you can afford a 6 month sabatical, go for your dream.

The Leadville and Glenwood Springs campuses are in the middle of some of the most spectacular country in the world. Non-school related activities abound. Even if you take only one semester then decide return to the UK, you won't regret the experience.

What you will regret is not pursuing your dreams.

Enjoy

Hold a black (flat not gloss) card in front of the lens then flip the switch to close the shutter.

Enjoy

You might see if you can get access to the Trinity River levy just west of downtown in the vicinty of I-30 and Canada Street. There may also be some sidewalks on the various viaducts over the Trinity where you can set up. I haven't tried either.

Jefferson St., Ft. Worth Ave., and Commerce St. radiate like spokes out of downtown (on the west side).

Enjoy

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Enjoy

This type of photography was the rage a couple of years back amongst the underwater photograpy set. You might look for back issues of Scuba Times magazine. I believe they had the best "how-to" articles on the subject. Also look for underwater photography books/articles by Frank Viola, Marty Snyderman, and Norbert Wu (to name a few).

You will need an absolutely calm day with flat water and split ND filter (dark above/clear below). The fish will appear 25% larger/closer than they actually are. Water drops on your lens port will not show in your photograph.

Enjoy.

Isn't this an "apples and oranges" comparison?

Given the same film (i.e. E100S), the equivalent focal length (50mm(35) and 75mm(645)), equal quality cameras and lens, and the same subject (framed identically), the 645 image will beat the 35 image every time. This is because the same amount of image information is compressed into a smaller area in 35mm than in 645. Less grain is available to record that image in 35 vs. 645. Your comparisons show this effect.

All this means is a Kiev 88 (for example) will produce images with more tonal range and detail than a Contax 35mm with Ziess glass (or an F5 with a 50mm Nikkor).

And your point is?

Enjoy

I have uploaded a a diagram of the TC-14E mount in the Photo.net Q&A.

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000pRd&topic_id=23&topic=photo%2enet">click here</a><p>

Enjoy

If you haven't been to London before, I'd highly recommend several of the fine museums in and around town. Specifically, the British Museum, Imperial War Museum, and Natural History Museum in London; the RAF and Battle Of Britian Museums north of London. You won't regret it.

Enjoy

Been there, done that.

I used a Pentax Super Program, 35-70mm, "Program" exposure mode, and Kodachrome 64 while flying my Rotec Rally 2B (high-wing tail-dragger)once.

Based upon that experience I suggest a Point & Shoot with a 28mm lens or similarly small 35mm AF camera with a wide angle lens with ISO 100 E-6 or C-41 film. 24mm lens might be better.

You are going to be busy so you want as much automation as possible. Use a neck strap and a shirt/jumpsuit with a big pocket for the camera when not in use.

I shot views of the air-speed indicator, feet on the rudder pedals, scenery below the wing, etc. Any angle I could think of to capture the experience of being 200 feet above ground in a flying lawn-chair.

You can also mount the camera (35mm auto-everything) out on a strut (or suitable pipe/wire) pointed back at the cockpit. Use a long cable release and "Smile!"

Enjoy

Nikon 105mm f/2.8D Micro:

Reproduction Ratio / Exposure Factor / Compensation

1:10 / 1.14 / 1/6 stop

1:7 / 1.20 / 1/3

1:5 / 1.29 / 1/3

1:4 / 1.37 / 1/2

1:3 / 1.52 / 2/3

1:2.5 / 1.64 / 2/3

1:2 / 1.84 / 5/6

1:1.8 / 1.95 / 1 stop

1:1.6 / 2.11 / 1

1:1.4 / 2.31 / 1 1/6

1:1.3 / 2.44 / 1 1/3

1:1.2 / 2.60 / 1 1/3

1:1.1 / 2.79 / 1 1/2

1:1 / 3.03 / 1 2/3

Enjoy

I received a new PS 110mm f/4.5 (from www.robertwhite.co.uk) this past week. I ran a roll of E100SW 220 through my SQ-Ai with this lens. I used a tripod and cable release. Here are my impressions.

The lens is big--72mm lens, 3 1/4" diameter body, 4 1/2" long at infinity, and 8" long at 1:1. It has the same functionality as the PS 80mm f/2.8 lens--DOF preview, "T" function, 1/2 stop increments f/4.5 to f/32. There is a magnification scale on the lens--"1:25" at infinity to "1" at 1:1. This scale is used to calculate exposure compensation at the various magnifications. (A table is provided in the manual.) The lens came with a high-quality, padded vinyl, draw-string bag, rubber bayonet-mount hood, front and rear lens caps.

Upon mounting the lens, I found that the split-prisim portion of my focusing screen was useless--it was typically half black. As a consequence, I had a few shots that I failed to get focused exactly right. Focusing, by the way, from infinity to 1:1 required nearly a full turn of the focusing ring.

I used a Polaris Digital light meter in incident mode. I shot the recommended meter on a variety of subjects outside of my home (typically flowers). My shutter speeds were 1/15 and slower--up to 2 seconds. I locked the mirror up for every shot. I shot the nearest 1/2 stop (meter plus compensation). The magnification scale, as marked, effectively translates into 1/3 stops. Most of my exposures were within an acceptable limits. (I have had similar results with E100SW using the PS 80mm f/2.8 lens--it is a true ISO 100 film for me).

The lens seems quite sharp, edge-to-edge, (when I held up my end of the bargain) at the upper end of the scale (f/8-f/32). (I used a 4x loupe on a light box.) I didn't shoot but one or two frames at f/4.5, but in one of them, I can almost read the white lettering on the tires of a truck parked two houses down. The color and contrast of my transparencies are quite pleasing as well.

I don't think I would use this lens as my "regular" lens unless I got a different focusing screen. The dark split prisim is too problematic. The camera also seems bulkier with this lens attached, although it is reasonably balanced. Macro is one of my favorite styles of photography, so I guess I'll be switching lenses frequently.

As a post script, I highly recommend Robert White Co. in Britian. Prompt, personal, service is always welcome and unexpected when dealing on the Internet. His prices on Bronica (including 3-day air from England) are less than domestic mail order.

Enjoy

Here are instructions sent to me by a fellow photo.netter (my thanks to him):

"The modification is very simple to perform, and as you read on my post on photo.net, maintains the electronic interface with the camera. When I did the mod on mine I went out and bought a small hobby file set for $15. This little kit gives you some small different shaped files for greater precision, not that a high degree of precision is needed but it makes things look better. To tell which tab is the one to file off, see the attached drawing.

IMPORTANT: During this procedure take care not to touch the optics. Take your time and be careful, if you have any mechanical ability, this will be a piece of cake. The first step is to remove the front bayonet (the stainless ring that mounts to the lens) via the four small screws. There are no electronics connected to the ring so removal is no problem. Do this next step with the converter sitting on a table or something flat. Lift the ring straight up off the converter so the mechanisms under it don't fall out.

Now, with the ring in hand, proceed to file the tab completely off; a small crescent shaped file works best for this. Once you have it filed flush, place the ring back on the converter, lining up the holes. Tighten the four screws.

That?s it! You will notice that the converter goes on pretty tight at

first, don't worry it will loosen up after only a few uses. Obviously

this procedure voids any warranty on the converter so if you?re going to buy one mail order, buy the grey market version sans warranty and save some cash."

I haven't had the opportunity to try this yet as my TC-14E has been backordered from B&H for two months now.

Enjoy