kraig_cuddeford

only in the tool pallet of the DPP software.

hey grant, sorry to go off topic a little here but I was checking your homepage, do you visit fishsniffer? My friends got some fresh steelies posted up there in the salmon/steelies section.

read my post and compare it to the actual question asked then ask yourself if your question was in spite or actually offerred any valuable advice!

I think it's just for the 20D cause he's bringing some under to relieve the drought.

while they are recalled they can deal with this issue too! http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&message=11066731

according to what I've read the AA filter was the only thing they could do to prevent odd patterning of repeating lines and paterns. Overall the main details are there but the fine details are blocked by the optical mask that imparts a slight blur, before the data is even registered by the photosite on the sensor. Maybe we can get canon to recall these things and replace it with the standard UV/IR cut filters that all the other ccd camera's are coming with and let software handle the AA. I mean we have video cards that have 4x anbd 8x AA for 3d games. I don't see why the video card API couldn't be programmed to handle 2D AA, Why bother doing this to an image before we even get to see the details recorded and how are we going to reprint the image details if they were not recorded in the first place..

I read its soft because the Anti-aliassing filter.

don't forget to post some results with the d100/scope combo I want to see! I almost bought one of those scopes thursday but I'm afraid of Chromatic abberation.

http://www.wfu.edu/~matthews/misc/DigPhotog/alias/

draw your own conclusions. I have..

so how do we tell the image converter to faithfully render the accutance of an image so that we can then observe the recorded details that aren't being shown in the DPP software etc...

I don't want 250V going into my camera on a relatively unsheilded connector.. The book says "Do not connect flashes requiring 250V or more"

 

It does not clearly state you can use a flash that outputs UP TO 250V sync signal to the PC socket. Be carefull how you read that manual. It's not clear enough! and for a $1500 camera, it's just not worth NOT using a safe sync adapter.

I didn't get the camera warm enough shooting with FV1.0.5 to see "more noise" from a hot sensor. I'm guessing what I did was use the camera so long that it was making more noise due to the heat, I started seeing red horizontal bands at higher ISO settings so I decided to update the firmware. I the camera was kinda hot by then, I was using the lcd alot, went through two batteries and was still shooting so after I updated the firmware the thing was fairly toasty. I went out and started taking more pictures and noticed it was worse.

 

So thanks again Bob for pointing out the EOS single shot behaviour. It wasn't that obvious to me why it stopped!. I must have accidently flipped the drive cog into continuous mode when trying to change the iso. So all is well with FV1.1... Can't say the same for my couple of bad days, I'm not getting enough sleep I guess..

oh yeah, 8 bits per byte, sorry I'm still having a bad day.

I use the ultra II, it's fast enough.

rent one of those 17-40's and take all your lenses and take pictures with all of them because you might not be going back so-soon.

so how come the raw file isn't 120+ Megabytes for a 16bit per pixel 8million pixel file.

I speculate that Av would be ideal if there are clouds blowing by the sun relatively fast.

I'll do it again tonight, with a cold camera and worm camera to see if there's a difference in the red banding with a warm camera like I noticed before.

I deleted them already cause they were no good.

LOL, hey guys at photo.net I got a browser hijack attempt while leaving this thread back to the eos forum! you might want to check your advertising links for hijacking code!<div></div>

yeah me too.

Mine behaves as Simon has mentioned. So it does sound like there is a problem. Try another CF card, if you get the same with a CF card that is fresh and freshly formatted in the camera try updating the firmware of the camera. If that doesn't work you should contact canon!

Thats the wide angle panel your touching. I was talking about that white card you have sticking out there, apears your's is smooth side down, but it looks more reflective compared to what is on mine. Mine is matte finished, almost chalky on one side, with a textured reflective surface on the other side.

it's not just the 20D, look at this 1DS shot. http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3006895-lg.jpg

ok so yeah, I'm dumb. I hate uhm... MYSELF ehehehe... Bob, thanks for testing against v1.0.5 and uhm.... Do you know that feeling... like someone flipped your world upside down, then showing you that it was YOURSELF that did it and there's nobody left to blame...... I'm going to put down the digital camera n see if I can forget how to turn it on! It's funny how the switch is almost exactly like the ON-OFF meter switch for my OM-1... Maybe I'll sell my PC and buy a Macintosh in the mean time..