dennis_spaan

Hi,

 

Recently I was given two old Multiblitz studioflashes. The 700Watt

"Multiblitz Kompaktstudio". 60s or 70s equipment I estimate. They have

two sync connectors on the back, but not like the newer headphone

jacks. Instead, they have phono (RCA) plugs.

 

Since I want to try them out, I was wondering how I can hook these up

to the sync connector on my camera? Adorama/B&H don't have cables like

that, so maybe it's possible to create one from a normal sync cable?

Or is that not such a good idea :)

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Dennis

Thanks for the information so far. I'm glad it's not all a lost cause :) I pretty much thought it would be more difficult this way, but I'm giving it a go anyway.

 

Neal Wydra, the book you're referring to is on my wishlist for christmas, so I'll find out soon enough :)

 

Bill Pearce, indeed! I though I read just about all pdf files on the ilford site, but obviously one not well enough. In the pdf file on:

 

http://ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/paper%20hobbyist.pdf

 

in step 14 a diagram shows how to wash directly in a tray, now all I need is to get some steady flow of water from the 20 litre container I have. Hmm...time for some DIY tinkering :)

 

Thanks.

 

Dennis

Hi,

 

At the moment I'm considering building my own darkroom in a garage I

rent. Problem with the garage is, it has no running water. This means

washing my developed prints would have to be washed in a normal

developing tray or other form of container. I'm kinda new at

developing my own prints and was wondering if this would cause

problems with the quality of the prints.

 

So obviously I have some questions about this... What do I need to do

to ensure my prints will come out the same way as when I did have

running water? Must the water be agitated or can I just put the print

in a tray of fresh water? Since most information about washing paper

(like the ilford pdf files on their papers) is for washing under

running water...how will this effect the washing time?

 

I've been thinking about building some kind of setup with a large

water container mounted on the wall, a sink below and a drain to

another container...but I first want to make sure there are no other

options.

 

Any thoughts, comments, suggestions are appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

Dennis

For this summer vacation I want to buy a wide-angle lens for my Canon

Elan 7E. I want to use it for both nature shots and sports

(mountainbiking). I've narrowed my decisions down to the Sigma 15-30

f3.5-4.5 or the new Sigma 17-35 HSM f2,8-4,0. Unfortunately the Sigma

12-24 is a lot more expensive than the 15-30 here in Europe (about 220

euros). Budget is about 600 euros.

 

Since I will be shooting quite a lot of sports with this lens I was

wondering, will the 15-30 focus fast enough for fast sports (bikers

coming at me)? Or would I greatly profit from the HSM in the 17-35?

 

If anyone has experience with either one of these (or both) lenses

used in sports photography, feel free to comment :)

 

Thanks,

 

Dennis

All info definately helps. Eric Milner, yes I'm aware of the fact that the 28-135 is fairly slow at 135, and will probably need fill-in flash in the darker forests. It's purely a budget thing, I've been looking for decent zoom from fairly wide to a decent tele. And my choice was this lens. I'm just not able to purchase an equivalent range lens, but with f2.8 over the entire range, maybe in the future :) You're information about under and overexposure for the different film types was very usefull.

 

I bought the iso 50/100 film to use with the 50mm 1.4 or the wide end of the 28-135. I will use the iso 400 (slide/negative) for the mountainbike pictures, because I want to try and learn to take pictures without flash in the beginning, just using natural light. It's hard enough taking good pictures when you're still learning to use the camera, let alone having to think about a flash as well.

 

I know there will be a lot of wasted shots, as long as I learn from them I don't mind.

 

Thanks for all your replies, and when I feel good enough about some of the results I will definitely ask for your oppinions about them :)

 

Dennis

I've just purchased some rolls of film for testing. Some slide and some negative; for slides I have fuji provia 100 & 400, and fuji velvia 50. For negatives I have some rolls of fuji nph 400. Hopefully I know soon enough what film works best for me.

 

I'll try and make some shots from the same position with the same lens and same framing. Are there other important things I should bare in mind? I know it's best to limit the number of variables, but what other variables are there that I can control in order to make a good comparison of film?

 

Dennis

Thank you for the information Eric. You know, since I'm just getting started with decent material it might not do any harm to try both. See the results for myself. Get to know the limits of certain material. Maybe I'll find the results very satisfying, where pro photographers will bin the pictures. I have yet to discover what 'good' looks like, maybe that's a big part in becoming a better photographer; knowing the materials you use so you can use it to your advantage in different situations. This is going to be so much fun :)

Wow! I didn't expect to get answers so quickly :) Thanks! I guess it's probably best to get to know the camera first using normal negatives, even though results may vary due to the developer. On the positive side, development time will be a lot shorter and cheaper using negative film.

 

I must say, they sure know how to make it difficult for a beginner to make decisions...especially if the 4 shops in my vicinity ALL give contradicting advice. Seems they are more interested in earning money than given the proper advice. Looks like I need to do some research on proper negative film now, since I trust my shops as much as I can throw the salesmen working there.

Hi,

 

First off, I must say, I'm totally new to photography. After months of

research I've just ordered a Canon Elan 7E. I already own a Canon 50mm

1.4 lens and a Canon 28-135 3.5-5.6. Since my camera will be arriving

any day now, I need to get some film. I've been reading a lot about

film and slides, both here on photo.net and on the rest of the

internet. As I'm a complete beginner at photography I like some of the

positive sides of slide film; one being the 'positive image' you get

from it. I know I still have a lot to learn, and I think it will help

me more if I look at positive images, untouched, than when looking at

a print from a negative (please correct me if that assumption is

wrong). I also like the idea that I will be able to properly select

images I want printed, since I'll probably will be shooting a lot more

than I want printed.

 

A lot of my previous photos were shot at downhill mountainbike events,

shooting when my friends ride and being shot when I'm riding. After

reading a lot of threads (and getting more and more confused by some

contraditing posts) I now know that the best quality color slides go

as far as iso 200. Will this film be fast enough for action

photography (biker speeds can get as fast as 50 mph), in natural light

(maybe overcast) using the lenses above, action at distances between 2

and 20 meters?

 

Or will I be better off using 400 iso negative film? Succesful photos

will be printed in normal 10x15 centimeters (4x6") and great photos

(if any) will be enlarged to A4 format (8x12"??). Maybe price should

be taken in consideration as well? I used to shoot about 100 photos a

day with a completely manual camera so I expect to shoot more with an

automated camera.

 

If anyone has experience with shooting sports or action sports, feel

free to comment. I haven't decided yet on filmtype, would like to

shoot slide though.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Dennis