ryan_wolstencroft

sorry, i mean to say Mike Dixon instead of ryan disney..

yeah i think ryan disney is right. go to this address to see a pic... http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/pentax67.jpg

I'm trying to find an umbrella approx 45" that has white/silver/gold diffusion

options and can also be used as shoot-through. I know that's a lot of layers to

stick on one umbrella, but does it exist? I might just have to go with a white/

gold/shoot through instead and forget about the silver. This is going to be

used with my alienbees, so of course it has to be compatible with that. thanks!

to tell the truth, i am a bit of a tech dork too and i get a kick out of this story, but

man, i'm wondering how he's going to store thousands of those photographs.

I hope he's sponsored by Seagate or something.

I dont really know much about shutters as this is my first LF lens and i dont dare open any of my canon 35mm or my mamiya MF lenses. But I guessed that it wouldnt be too complicated in this one because it's all mechanical, and I just sort of assumed they could only fit so many pieces in such a small object. Maybe in time i'll learn the intricacies of varying shutters. I was pretty impressed by the engineering of this little shutter though. polished or not, as long as the pieces do what they are supposed to, i'm fine with that.

Hey guys thanks! I just came back to say i think i got it together correctly, but you guys were too fast! I really appreciate the help. Jim, you are totally right. Once i put the speed ring on, i could see that it hit that piece when i set it to 400. I wouldnt have guessed why without you saying it, but it makes perfect sense to have a bit more tension for high speed. man, i feel great getting this thing back together!

 

I'm not sure exactly what kind of shutter this one is. I think I remember reading these lenses had Supermatic shutters but i'm not sure. Oh, and yeah i was just reffering to the entire thing as a lens because i had the entire thing taken apart in front of me. but i suppose you're correct and i should have said shutter as that is what i was taking pictures of for you. Thanks again guys for the help!

Ok, I had to take my lens apart for a good reason which isn't so

relevant so I'll spare you. While i fixed the problem i needed to, i

seem to have created another problem. I have everything put back

together except for one piece that i just can't figure out what it

does or how it correctly fits. I know where it goes, but it doesnt

seem to do ANYTHING when it's there. The real problem is the spring

that goes under this piece. It only seem to fit one way over the post

that it goes around because the bottom end of the spring fits into a

hole, but when it is fit in this way, it doesnt put torque on the

piece that goes over it in any way. The real kicker is that the lense

seem to be working perfectly fine without this piece in at all. But

it must have been there for a reason, right?

 

I've put images online so you folks can check them out and if you know

what you're doing, maybe you can help me figure this enigma out. If

you need any more info, or other pictures, please just let me know.

It's driving me crazy. Here is the link

 

http://busdriverstu.darwinonline.org

 

Go to the "Lens Fix" album. It's easy to figure out.

 

I would bring it to get fixed but i'm afraid the cost of doing so

would be around the same as just picking up another one of these on

auction.

 

Thank you so much if you can offer help. Also, if there is another

place I should try asking, let me know that too! thanks!

thanks for the opinions guys. I'll be using it with an Alien Bees B1600. I'm still a poor college student and havnt movied into serious strobe territory yet, but i'm pleased with the AB so far. Do you guys feel that the Halo is a happy medium between a softbox and an umbrella? more of one than the other? can it be used without the diffuser on the front so it would pretty much just be an umbrella if i wanted to do that? that would really be ideal.

i'm having a hard time deciding between investing in a softbox or

umbrella and this seems like a cross of the two worlds. but i'm

wondering if anyone has experience with it and can let me know what

the think. thanks!

thanks for the suggestions. I'll try giving the rollers a thorough cleaning and see how that works.

I recently purchased one of these from KEH.com that was marked

"excellent" condition. This is my first shot at using a polaroid back

that takes pack film, so maybe i'm doing something wrong, but here is

the problem I'm having.

 

When I pull each sheet of film out, it doesnt pull the leader for the

next sheet out. I have to open up the back and feed the leader

through the rollers (which is tricky to do!!). Does that make any

sense? Is this a common problem at all? let me know if you have

dealt with this or how you think i can fix it.

hey guys, thanks for the comments so far.

 

part of the reason I'm curious about this is simply because it's something I don't know how to do and i want to learn. Part of it is that I just dig the way it looks. And part of it is that I think it lends itself to some sense of fantasy-oddness that I've been getting into. if anyone else has things to say, please jump on in. I'll take a look around for plugins and stuff, but i'd rather know the manual steps.

please follow these directions to look at the image i'm talking about.

I can't post a direct link because it's Flash...

 

-go to http://www.fiscusphoto.com/

-Menu> Images> gallery 2

-bottom row, second to last image (it's of a man in a cowboy had)

 

I'm trying to figure out how to achieve this look in my photographs.

I'm not sure if this is the correct forum to be asking, but I believe

it has something to do with the processing of the color film. Maybe

there is a digital approach I can take? Something about this image

reminds of the colors and lighting in some Jean-Pierre Jeunet films

(city of lost children, amelie). I suppose if anyone could point me

to where I can find directions on how to digitally achieve this look,

that would help me more as I do not process my own color negs/slides.

I've been using Epson 3200 and 4870 flatbeds to scan film, mostly 6x6

and 6x7, and have been reasonably satisfied with the results. I've

begun to think that perhaps I'm only satisfied because I've never been

able to compare scan results with anything else. I believe the

statement "more pixels doesnt mean better pixels". I've been told that

dedicated film scanners can provide much better results than flatbeds.

I guess I'm asking if this is noticeably true. Are there any

comparisons available?

 

In my quick search for MF dedicated film scanners only three

manufacturers came up. Microtek, Minolta and Nikon. All of them were

far out of my price range. Do lower priced MF film scanners exist?

If so, are their results any better than flatbed results?

hey guys thanks for the responses. I just took a look at the camera and figured out exactly how the mechanism works and what the problem was with it. There is a pin on the revolving back adapter that is supposed to push a button inside a hole on the film back. the pin is pushed by a little arm on the camera body that is activated by the shutter. I found that the pin was very very slightly bent and it wasnt traveling back and forth smoothly, it was getting stuck and thus not pushing the button on the back that makes the little red marker pop up. I straighted it out just with a little pressure from my hand and got it traveling smoothly again and now everything is fine. thanks again guys.

I just today got my used rb67 proS with proS back and 90mm from KEH.

I've put a roll and a half of b+w through it (havn't developed

anything yet). I'm having a problem I cant figure out even after

reading the manual.

 

The camera is NOT in multi exposure mode and the darkslide is NOT in.

when I shoot a shot, I can't advance the film unless I first press

the wind-stop release lever to the left. Also, after shooting an

exposure, the frame counter doesnt pop up the little red marker until

I push over that wind-stop release lever. I may be mistaken but

shouldn't that happen automatically and shouldn't the camera just let

me advance the film without the use of additional levers?

that's all i'm looking for. all i want is to be able to fire the flash by hitting the shutter button. I don't need all the auto-whatevers, manual is fine. Is there a hotshoe>PC adapter that canon makes? third party?

the C33 obviously doesn't have the canon PC terminal, it just has a

plain old fashioned sync terminal. Is there a cable available that

will work between the two? I apologize for sounding like such a

novice, to tell the truth i have very seldomly used flash in the past.

The 540ez was a gift a few years back and now i'm more interested in

using it but i now shoot more medium format than 35mm. thanks for any

help you can offer.

hey Kris. I'm a photo student and I live over on the eastern side of MA. I would certainly be willing to travel a bit to check out that gear if it can still be had for such great prices. If you wouldn't mind, I'd be excited to discuss those Linhofs with you. Also, it might be a long shot, but I've been saving for an RB67 system, this generous man wouldn't happen to have another RB67 for sale would he?

I finally got a 55mm lens off ebay for my Mamiya C33. I havn't had a

roll developed yet so i can't say anything about the image quality.

Something i have noticed though is that the image in the WLF is much

darker than it was with my 105mm lens on the camera. My guess is that

because the 55mm lens is a f/4.5 lens and the 105mm is an f/3.5 lense,

they have probably set the aperture of the viewing lense on the 55mm

to 4.5 also. Is this right? I suppose I could put my 105mm back on

the camera and stop down the viewing lense to 4.5 (it's adjustable for

DOF preview) and see how it compares, but I'll need to wait until i

finish my current roll before i do that. thanks guys.

I'm thinking about buying an RB67 used and had just assumed that it

would be lighter than my C33 because i find the C33 pretty heavy. I'm

starting to wonder though if this is in fact true. I read a lot about

how heavy the RB67 is, but can't find a comparison to my C33 (or a

C330, C3, etc.) so if anyone could let me know if i'm right or wrong

and how different they are i would be pleased. Even if the RB is

heavier, is it easier to handhold because of it's shape? I find the

C33 very awkward to handhold. thanks guys!

Jonathan, I'm going to be a senior photo student at UMass, and I feel like I have some thoughts to offer that perhaps others here whom are/were not photo students wouldn't really understand. Some people here are talking about starting a business to finance gear and make money. This is not commonly the reason one goes to school to earn a fine arts degree.

 

I know I go to school to earn my BFA in photography because I want to make art and photography is my chosen medium for doing so. I would hope that is anyone's desire who is working toward a fine arts degree.

 

If you want to learn about lighting headshots and taking senior portraits, then that's fine but you could just read some books. If you want to learn about art and what it really means, and how to create something lasting and meaningful, then art school is a good idea. I encourage anyone heading into art school to not think of it as job training. It shouldn't really be a vocational program. Earning a BFA or MFA should be about something you want to do regardless of whether or not you can get a job in the end (as you could with engineering or nursing or whatever other things people choose to study).

 

I hope this has made at least some sense. I've been awake for close to 24 hours now. I don't mean to step on any toes with anything i've said, i hope i have not.

thanks everyone for the suggestions and information. i really appreaciate it. keep the info coming if you have any, i'm still watching this thread.

thanks guys for the quick responses. I guess i'll just have to keep my eyes open. there was just one on ebay with a buy-it-now of $199, but i missed the opportunity =( If anyone's planning on selling one in good condition, shoot me a note.

I'm having trouble determining a reasonable price to pay for this

particular lens. I've followed a few auctions and saw widely varying

end prices for similar condition items. Two that I was following

awhile back ended with one at $157.50 and the other at $330. both

were said to be near mint condition. So i guess my real question is,

what's a reasonable price for this lens.

 

Bonus question: The 65mm usually goes for cheaper. Is the extra 10mm

of the 55mm worth the extra money in your opinion? I think I have my

heart set on the 55mm so this is really just to hear some opinions.

thanks guys!