mark_gillett

Ewa makes waterproof pouches you can stick your camera in and shoot with them in the pouch. You can work the zoom ring and push the button to shoot, but you usually have to take it out of the bag to change other settings. They work good underwater up to 10 feet or so, and I've used them rafting, snorkeling, etc. Sounds like it would be a good investment for you.

Cory,

You'll probably have to send it back to Nikon, but before you do, try all the ideas above. I would try setting it to the green auto mode and see if it will shoot. If it does, that means one of your settings is off. If not, then it is something mechanical. I'd try different lenses as mentioned, and try taking out the card and reinserting it, try a different card, re-format the card, etc. Let us know how it turns out.

I get good sharpness and shoot similar subjects. I would switch your settings as follows:

AF to center, not matrix. Use AF-S, press halfway, let it focus sharply, then press all the way to shoot. When you focus, place the focus point on the eyes, press halfway for focus, once it sets, recompose the picture and shoot.

 

AE to matrix, not center.

 

Try shooting jpegs right out of the camera. I used to shoot raw and fiddle in PS, but I'm not good at it, and the in-camera jpegs give me better pictures.

 

Just my thoughts.

Fred,

Try dropping it in the water next time. That will guarantee you get a new one.

Albert,

I have a D80 and have both the 20/2.8 and recently got the 12-24 zoom (both Nikon). The 20/2.8 was one of my favorite lenses with my film cameras, but it is just not wide enough on a D80. I rarely carry it any longer. I love the 12-24 and would highly recommend it if you want to go wide on a D80.

 

Now for the real reason I'm posting a response. Keep in mind that the slowest shutter speed for handheld shots (no tripod) is generally 1/focal length, so for a 50mm lens, you could generally handhold down to 1/50th sec. This means that for a 12-24 zoom, you can handhold down to 1/12 sec to 1/24 sec. In other words, you can get sharp pictures at relatively slow shutter speeds. When you factor that in, the 12-24 may work for you even though it doesn't go to 2.8.

 

Finally, I rarely shot the 20/2.8 wide open at 2.8 because the short depth of field does not usually fit for my wide subjects. I shoot long lenses at 2.8 all the time (e.g. portraits), but wide angle lenses are unflattering to faces anyway and I usually want everything sharp in a wide angle shot.

 

Just some thoughts. Where are you located by the way?

Sounds fishy. I've had lots of Nikons over many years, including a D80, and I am not at all careful with it. I take it everywhere, use it in the rain, out on boats, camping, etc., in all kinds of weather and temperatures, and I've never noticed any condensation or moisture problems inside the camera (yes, the lens will get condensation when going from cold to warm). I am skeptical that this is from perspiration. Please let us know how it turns out. This cannot be typical of Nikons or D80s.

"This along with a few other things (smaller sensors, magnification factor, lower image quality & resolution) is why I've been considering selling my Nikon gear, while I only have about $1,100 invested, and moving over to Canon camp. Is there something I'm missing here?"

 

Yes, you are missing a great deal.

 

"Does anyone else see this, or is it just me?"

 

It's just you.

 

"I'm still relatively new to digital photography, so maybe I'm jumping the gun . . ."

 

We would never guess that you are new. No, you are not jumping the gun. You should sell your Nikon gear and switch to Canon. What Nikon gear are you selling?

I've bought lots of stuff from Adorama and from B&H over the years and have never had a bad experience. I've returned stuff to both too, and no problems. I've had good luck buying used from B&H, but have never tried Adorama for used. I'll still shop there because I've had good luck, but I'm sorry you had a bad experience, Joe.

I'm a rank amateur, but have gotten some good racing shots. My advice is to go to practice on Saturday for the best photo opportunities. It is less crowded and less photographers, so it's easier to wander around and get into the good locations. I try to find a good corner where I can get a shot of the cars head-on coming at me. I shoot in shutter priority at about 1/500 to 1/1000. I want some blur in the wheels but not in the driver's helmet, etc. I also try to frame with more than one car in the shot. It makes it more interesting. Then I try to find a spot where I can get a shot of the cars going by from a side perspective, but you need to pan to do this. Also, since most locations will have you shooting through chain-link fence, you need to use about 1/100 to blur the chain link fence sufficiently. All manual focus for everything. Just pick a spot on the road and focus on that, then pan and try to snap when the car is at that location. Small aperatures with a big depth-of-field are the safest, and since you are panning, the background will be blurred at 1/100 or 1/250. I like some blur in the wheels for this too, and aim for getting sharp driver/helmet. Good luck.

Definitely talk to the instructor first. The most important issue in my opinion is the availability of lenses to bum/borrow. If the class has lenses that are available to you, you want to be able to use them. Second, I would get what your friends have for the same reason. No reason to all buy the same lenses. Better to each get one first-rate lens and then swap them around to play with.

Yes, the AF-L button is the way to do it. The camera is supposed to be designed to make it natural to hold that button, but it does take a little practice for it to really feel natural. What your camera is doing is the way it is supposed to work.

I use the 80-200 2.8D on my N90s and let it hang from the strap over my shoulder. Since it is hanging straight down, I've never had any problems with the weight on the N90s mount. With my new D70, I'm a little concerned about whether it will damage the mount. Any thoughts? I'll just keep doing it until I have a problem unless I hear different from anyone. On the use of the lens, I've had no issues. It's my favorite.

Virginia,

I agree 100% with Art. Have her use the gift camera as her "backup camera" and for when the gift-giver is around. It also might be a good choice for anywhere that she might get it wet. I recently got my 12-year old daughter a Nikon N75 for $199 and a 50mm lens for $89. It takes fabulous pictures, will work fully manual or automatic or in-between, has a pop-up flash and can take better flash accessories and lenses (i.e., Dad's flashes and lenses). It is cheap enough that she can take it anywhere and not worry about breaking it. I'm sure a Canon Rebel is just as good and comparable in price. I'm also sure Minolta has something similar. There are other brands that are probably as good, but these are the "big names." Any would be a great choice. They are all absolutely fabulous in quality and performance. You can buy online from Adorama or B&H Photo and be assured of great service and competitive prices.

Cause of the Paul Simon song. I don't shoot Kodachrome anymore though.