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ewanbachell

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Posts posted by ewanbachell

  1. <p>Ok, I havn't really had much practice using flash but I can never seem to find the right exposure to get the subject to "pop" properly.<br>

    I have flash triggers that can sync at 1/250, though as long as the light is sufficient they will fire successfully at most speeds.<br>

    What I don't know is what I should be aiming for with regards to aperture and shutter speed. Should I go for underexposure so that the area the flash lights is brighter or should I go for correct exposure and use the flash on top? Thats what I usually do but it doesn't seem to work.<br>

    Also, I want to shoot showboarders but I have this problem, the flash just doesn't seem powerful enough to create a strong light, or is the light just lost because the overall shot is bright in the snow?<br>

    Any help or pointers you cam give me would be much appreciated. Thanks muchly.</p><div>00YHRm-335117584.thumb.jpg.68734ed614dfce72f25e83de293a1e26.jpg</div>

  2. <p>Ok, this is one thing that I know pretty much nothing about. Products or otherwise.<br /> Spending as little as possible, I am looking for a flash trigger to enable me to use one or two flashes off camera for sports shots. (Canon 550EX master, 420EX slave. I also have a 540EZ lying around that I never use.) I will need to be able to get a fair distance from the subject (10 meters or so). I am aware of numerous cheap 3rd party triggers such as http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-Flash-Trigger-Canon-580EX-II-550EX--2-Receiver_W0QQitemZ280370149236QQcmdZViewItem<br /> and that Canon make the ST-E2. Im not sure why its £100 more than the others. I also know of the pocket wizard and I assume it is similar to the ST-E2 but uses radio waves instead of infra-red?</p>

    <p>Also question 2: the dumb one. What are the differences between a flash trigger/transmitter/remote/transciever? or are they the same thing. Actually thinking about it the remote probably allows you to control the flash settings, which I won't need to do I don't think.<br /> Hope that all makes sense, cheers.</p>

  3. <p>Wow thank you so much guys, especially to you Phillip, that explaination is staggering. Thats given me a lot to think about. Although most of the racing I shoot won't be as fast as skiing, some of it is so I think the speed of the 2.8 would be a better investment. Even though it is twice the price, I presume you get what you pay for.</p>

    <p>So from the sounds of it, the best thing to go for would be the EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM (Non IS)<br /> Obviously a lens a good picture does not make, but the current lens I have is nothing but a hindrance.<br>

    The canon can be had for around £850, which isn't too bad.</p>

  4. <p>Although it might be a good investment, at the moment I dont need the big 2.8 so i might go for the 4. Just to be sure is this it? - http://www.lambda-tek.com/componentshop/index.pl?origin=gbase27.3&prodID=B87918<br>

    Usually at races I can get anything to within touching distance, which is often pretty dangerous! But I get some good results with my wide angle. Unfortunately my cheapo Tamron 70-300's af is far too slow.</p>

  5. <p>Thanks! This is the type of result im going for. Despite the obvious raw colour editing, theres no denying this is impressively crisp.<br /> This photo is not mine, and should also answer your question john. It was taken with the 200 F2.8L Mk2. 1/5000 at 2.8<br>

    That 70-300 isnt an l-series, and its only around £500. Will I get quality results, or am I looking at the wrong lens?<br>

    <img src="http://is.pinkbike.com/photo/3538/pbpic3538908.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="998" /></p>

  6. <p>I am looking for a near-pro quality lens for downhill racing photography. I was looking at the Canon 200 F2.8L Mk2 Lens, but its fixed. Is there something of close quality that is zoom? I have seen the potential sharpness quality of this lens and its very impressive.<br>

    I'm not sure of my budget so it doesnt really matter just now. I just need to know whats out there.<br>

    I did also think of the EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM. But will it give as good results? </p>

  7. <p>Thanks, I will have to get some business cards made then. I'm working on my website just now, the one I have up is basically a placeholder. I guess I'll have to creat my own attention, but I think the website is probably the first step.</p>
  8. <p>I have been shooting mountain bikers a few times now, and I'm starting to be pleased with my results. I'm eager to get my pictures out there, but I'm not keen on handing good quality ones out for free. (Unless it will benefit me.) But then again if you only make low qual ones viewable (like the one below), you arent showing them off at all.<br /> I have some great shots, I'm just at a bit of a loss with what to do with them.<br /> Does anyone know where a good place to put them would be where they could be seen? (besides here or flickr)<br /> <img src="http://is.pinkbike.com/photo/3577/pbpic3577858.jpg" alt="" width="516" height="800" /></p>
  9. <p>Gary: Thanks I've just figured that out. I'm using a 550ex and 420ex as slave. Both can be set to high speed sync on the flash. Can't do much via the camera with either flash for some reason but works fine setting it via the flash. (along with 2nd curtain etc). I'm completely new to using them but I'll get there in the end! Thanks again.</p>
  10. <p>Elliot Berstein:<br>

    Yeah I tried it out and it seems really useful, thanks! Its good to be able to do minor ajustments to a whole picture, like sharpness or contrast. Much better than PS's built in ones.<br>

    You can also get some really cool, wierd looking stuff, just need to work out how to use it!</p>

  11. <p>To Gary Belman: Thanks! I didn't know about that feature, and I had to enable it in the menu before it would show up. Should really read through the manual again at somepoint.<br>

    <br /> To Elliot Berstein: That program does sound interesting, but it seems to compromise the realism of the photos a little. And i'm not really liking the last one at all. But I can definately see how it would work with the first one so I might give it a go with a few.<br /> But to my mind it is kind of cheating haha. I don't mind mucking the levels/contrast and dodge/burning occasionally. But arguably all that is cheating too.<br /> Also for the first one, I used the flash on 1/4 strength just to get a little pop which hasnt really worked on the rider. Worked well with the tree on the right though!</p>

  12. <p>I am getting into Mountain Bike shooting and I've realised I will need to use flash a lot. With my 40D I can only get flashes in the hotshoe to sync at 1/250 minimum. Though not always necessay I would rather use much higher speeds, can I shoot faster if I get a cable for the flash and hold it? Or is there another way?<br /> Also, ive stuck a few of my better ones below. Any friendly critique, or advice on how to get good results consistantly would be very welcome, Cheers!<br>

    <br /> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3640/3606948643_dd3072c2db.jpg?v=0" alt="" width="334" height="500" /><br>

    <br /> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3416/3607770598_c59dd0317f.jpg?v=0" alt="" width="341" height="500" /></p>

    <p><br /> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3607/3556774129_59e51f23f7.jpg?v=0" alt="" width="334" height="500" /><br>

    <br /> <img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2465/3597322811_ecaa09808e.jpg?v=0" alt="" width="326" height="500" /></p>

  13. <p>I have a D40 but as usual im not impressed with with onboard flash. I need a flash remotely situated on a tripod that I can use a connection cord with. I've found ebay cords that are compatible with a flash (420EZ) I have, but not sure about the camera-flash compatibility.<br /> I have an old 420EZ lying around at home and I was wondering how compatible it is with the D40. Its for taking pictures of fast moving subjects, mountain bikers to be exact.<br /> Any advice anyone could give me would be fantastic, cheers.</p>
  14. I have a sigma 24mm macro that i want to use with my new 40d body. Thing is, it sometimes gives me the err 01 no

    contact between lens and body message. I say sometimes because it seems to do it whenever it feels like it. It

    works for a few images and then decides Err 01. Why? I could understand if it did it all the time, then there

    would obviously be some incompatibility. Ive cleaned the contacts, i don't know what more i can do! Doesnt do

    this with the EFS 17-85mm IS or the Tamron 70-300mm lenses I got with it.

  15. Has anyone ever heard of a make called Zentiar. They are a Russian

    company. For example please check ebay item no 3811293139. I am

    looking for a well priced fisheye lens for my Canon Eos. This seems

    very reasonable.

     

    Does anyone have any experiences with these sorts of lenses? And are

    the photographs circular or do they fill the whole screen?

    If anyone has any recommendations pleasefeel free also.

     

    Thanks

  16. Can anyone tell me if "Titanium" Super Wide Macro Lenses sold by the

    VIDEO CAMERA CENTER on ebay are any good? They are named as Fisheyes

    with macro. Aparrently they will fit a Canon Eos with 52mm thread

    lens (as they are only converter lenses).

     

    For example one of the item numbers is 3806107081.

     

    Any feedback would be extremely useful, thanks. For the price they

    seem quite good.

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