paul_m._woods
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Posts posted by paul_m._woods
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Thanks to all who have responded. I've seen some very good stuff so far. If anyone else would like to shamelessly self-promote, please do :)
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February 2008 is the best you're getting at the moment - we haven't decided yet :)
Less than 100 guests.
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I'm looking for a wedding photographer for a wedding in Pasadena, CA (near Los
Angeles), for February 2008. The photographer should be available for the entire
day, and be proficient in wedding photography, being able to shoot in the
photojournalist/reportage style, as well as take formal group shots. Budget is
undetermined, but will be less than $2,000.
If you could post links to your portfolios here (or email me), I'd be very happy
to check them out. Thanks!
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Thanks to everyone for your advice, congratulations and misdirections [W. Smith...! :) ]. I've enjoyed looking at some of your portfolios. I've decided to take up Alex's idea and start a new thread with an expression of desire in the title... please feel free to add links to your portfolios to that thread.
Paul.
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I've done some wedding photography before, but now I'm coming from the opposite
end of things: I'm looking for a wedding photographer! Photo.net seemed the
obvious place to come primarily, especially with the useful location suffixes
which have now been put after recognised wedding photographers' names. But, I'm
confused, how do I search photo.net for wedding photographers based around Los
Angeles?
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Thanks for the advice.
Yes, I could develop it at home - I have the knowledge, albeit a lack of practice. I also don't have the kit... so on this occasion, it seems like it would be best to take my film to a lab.
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I've been searching photo.net all day but nowhere have I found a
simple, clear answer to the following question:
*) If I shoot Kodak TMAX 3200 rated at 1600 (as is the fashion with
wedding photographers et al.), when I take it to a lab, do I tell them
I've pulled it a stop, or should they just develop it as if I took it
at 3200? What is the actual difference in the resulting negative if
they develop for 1600 or for 3200?
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Thanks for the responses and work you've put into this, everyone. Yes, my inquiry was a bit vague, but I don't know how to define it any better... Obviously I'll just have to find a better example to show you! Some useful points have come up (lack of sharpness, fading) which I will try to use.
Thanks again,
Paul.
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I believe the 20D now comes in an infra-red friendly version (is it called the 20Da?). So you could just get one of those and whack on an infrared filter :)
Alternatively, just Google for infrared + photoshop. You'll be inundated with links/tutorials.
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<p>Does anyone have any tips (or ideally know of a tutorial or two) on
how to reproduce 70's and 80's style colours using Photoshop? The
typical colours you'd get on colour photographs of that era, I mean -
heavy earthy colours, greens and browns, yellows, quite muted or
faded. Here's not a particularly good example, but you may get the
idea of what I mean:</p>
<p><a
<p>Like the photographs our parents took of us when we were young (I
realise I'm alienating the non-20somethings in the readership here -
please bear with me!)</p>
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<p>Hi - can anyone provide me with an example of some sort of "waiver"
to be signed by my (potential) photographic models? Or a few pointers?</p>
<p>I want to advertise for models locally, and would like any
successful applicants to sign some very low-key form which means that
they would have no rights to the negatives or photos, or to what use I
put the photos. I just want this to cover my back, so that 5 years
down the line I can't be sued for publishing a photo of someone (who,
for instance, suddenly became famous. I doubt this will happen, but
hey).</p>
<p>I <i>really</i> don't want this to be a huge document, with lots of
legal wording. Just a few lines of text, easy to understand, but
legally binding (in the UK), and a signature/date.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance.</p>
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Can anyone advise me - for a 70mm-210mm lens, which brand would make
it more sense to buy (in general)? I've always thought Vivitar were
cheap, and Sigma were the classy lens choice - am I wrong? I've just
read a post about an *old* Sigma - have they become better than
Vivitar in the last decade or so?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Looking for second shooting jobs in London
in Wedding & Event
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