diego_alonso

Does anyone knows the image circle of this lens?

Thank you very much.

That�s the point, i am buying my first LF camera, i will travel to Namibia and i think that is easier to devlope or kepp the roll films than sheets, anyway i would like to use both, i have the camera but not lens yet so before buying a lens i would like to consider some things.

Do you have the same angle of view with a 90mm on a 9x12 than a 6x9. How do you make the composition and the focus??? Thank you very much for your answers and please forgive my English, i hope you understand my questions.

Hello everybody, i would like to know if a 6x9cm roll film back will

change the focal lenght of the lenses, i mean a 150mm on a 9x12

cm(4x5") is a 43 mm on a 35mm format so using the same lens on a 6x9cm

back will be like 65mm on a 35mm????

Thank you very much for your help.

No LON, the lensboard do not loose but it move from the front to the rear because the thickness of the front panel is about 5mm and the lensboard about 2mm, it seems to be a linhof third party lensboard because the corners, what is worring me is the front-rear movement because the film-plan distance.Thanks to all. Kindly Diego.

http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=889778

Thanks for your posts,

Yes, the metal one is 96x98 mm but the problem is the front panel where i have to fit the lensboard is about 5mm deep and the lens board is much thinier, i think there is no lens boards of this depth measure.

Maybe the man who sold me the camera put the two lens boards together but even this way it stills moving a little bit from the fornt to rear. I really don�t know. Thanks again for your help and sorry about my english.

Hi everybody, i bought a second hand tachihara 4x5 from germany, i am

not able to speak German even English is a little bit dificult to me.

Ok, i have two lens board, one is wood made with a 65 mm hole and the

other one is thicker, metal made and with a 40 mm hole, IS IT NORMAL

THAT THEY MOVE INTO THE FRONT PANEL??? Sure that i will have more

question in the future but this one is suprise and worry me.

Thanks a lot for your help.

Kindly. Diego.

hi to everybody, i have two questions, i just bought a rolleinar 3 for

my rolleiflex without light meter and would like to know the right

position (ther are one bigger than the other) to place on the view

lens and the taking lens, and how much do i have to compensate the

exposition if i have to do it.

Thank you very much.

For those who are interested the follow link is very helpful, check it:

http://robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=6007-6017

Hi Rachelle, sure there is a lot of question and my answer will not help you very much cause i am new in digital world also but a "serious amateur" also. i had a f3 a f4 and just buyed a used nikon d1. All my cameras second hand, never had a problem with them.

My subjective opinion is i recomend you to not become crazy about canon vs nikon, etc... but buy a camera which feel good to you as an instrument to take pictures for your needs. I think it´s sure the digital equipment you buy today will become obsolet? in a few years. For me this is a part of marketing from the big companies, they tell us what are our needs, and i think the secret is to have clear what is your own need.

Make this answer to yourself:

How much i want to enlarge my photos?

Do i want to store my photos in jpg or raw?

Is a fast shutter reponse really need for me?

Do i need the ultimate advance in flash?

If i would like to pass to paper a digital photo, will i process it myself or to a prof lab?

Sure you will found very helpful answers from more experienced photographs but also sure your own experience will help you more so don´t think you will invest for an equipment for the rest of your life.

Kindly.Diego.

Hi All, just buyed a Nikon d1 and searching for a memory card.

Thank you very much.

Kindly.Diego.

i dont have a scaner but i read in "chasseur d´images" a review about the coolscan 5000 ed and they rate it as a very-very-very good scaner with a very good price-quality.

Hope it help you, if you want tomorow i can post you some specs or you can write me.

Hi, All, just buyed a polaroid back for my nikon f3 without

instructions, after some minutes i load an fp-100c fuji film.

it was 18 degrees in my room and give about 120 seconds to devlop

the film.

The photo appear in the low right corner and there is a yellow band

form side to side in the middle of the polaroid photo.

Why this yellow band?

Do you know if it is posible to take more photo on the same polaroid?

Thank you very much for your answers..

Sorry i have not a scaner to post the photo.

I am interested to buy a nikon d1, i never use a digital camera, i

have some AIS lenses, i want it to photojournalism and to introducing

in digital photography, not big prints not studio shots.

A quick reponse to the shutter is very important for me and a low

time for the next shot also (RAW).

Like the d1 cause it looks more rugged than a d100 or d70.

How its match the d70 and d100 in AF?

In picture quality?

In noise?

A lot of questions i try to see the reponse in other forums but found

very technicals posts and don´t understand them(don´t speak english

very well), i would like to know practical reponses.

Thank you very much.

Best regards.

Hi to All, following i attach two photos, mine is a simple test for

the skin tone in cloudy day and about 20 minutes before night; and

the other is from a book and don´t know how and when and wich film

used but guess is also cloudy day but earlier, am i right?

The question is mine have a blue skin tone and the prof one not.

How to achieve a better skin tone keeping the blue tone of the photo?

The scaner is bad, the book photo have a neutral skin tone(not red)

and mine have a blue dominant.

Also the sky wasn´t withe, it was more dark.

I think those are too much question and poor quality examples but

hope you can teach me as always.

Hi to everybody, i would like to know wich method is best suited for

you to evaluate slides, if projector or loupe with case.( and why? ).

Thanks.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH guys, you´re ALL GREAT, thanks for your suports and technical adds, the union make the force, happily my wife and friends are ok but still a very sad day, hope this madness finish soon for all of us.

Taking up the question again i would like to know if it is easy to find a brighter screen for the C and if it´s also easy to replace it,

The D and E have the same screen? Is it a big improvment (i like to shot in dim light)?.

My budget is limited so i prefer to buy a C in better condition than a worst condition D,E or F, if the improvment is not too big.

THANKS AGAIN.

Hi everybody, i am planing to buy a Rolleiflex 2.8 and would like to

know the diference betwen the F and the C models in optical terms,

parallax corrected and mechanical construccion; i read the screen is

brighter in the F ( don,t know if it is a very high diference or if

it is a big advantage), The F have meter (i have a sekonic 308).

Have they got the same bayonet? the same accesories? They have the

same coating? Softer,contrastier?

THANK YOU VERY MUCH.........KINDLY.DIEGO.

Thanks to All, your answers are very helpfull. I will send to clean them then be more carefull.

Thank you very much.

Please can anybody tell me why some microscopics dust appears inside

lenses and if it afect the image? since what size enlargment?.

Thank you very much.