charlie_mallia
-
Posts
6 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by charlie_mallia
-
-
Further to the post. Here is some further explanation.The Sunny 16
Rule states that on a bright sunny day the setting on any
camera is F16 at 1/the film speed of the film that you are going to
use.
Eg: if you are using 400 speed film then the proper exposure on a
bright
sunny day is F16 and 1/400 second. If you use 100 speed film then it
would
be F16 at 1/100 second.
Each EV#(exposure value #) represents one stop. That is if you take
a photo
on an overcast day (EV 11) the setting on the camera will be 4 stops
different from a bright sunny day (EV15). If you are using 100 speed
film.
The setting would be F4 at 1/00, or F5.6 at 1/50, or F8 at 1/25, or
F11 at
1/12.5, or F16 at 1/6.25. All of these are 4 stops of difference.
These
are exact but in practical terms 1/12.5 would become 1/10 and 1/6.25
would
be 1/5.
However as you are using a Minox which has a fixed F3.5 lens then the
choice
of Fsetting is set at F3.5. I use F4 for practicality.
F4 is 4 stops from F16, so the speed using 100 speed film will remain
at
1/00. But say it was a cloudy bright day (EV13). Then the difference
is 2
stops from EV15. Your Minox lens at F4 is 4 stops from F16 and it
is fixed
so you can't change it, but you would change the shutter speed by 2
stops
from 1/100 to 1/400 so that you have a 2 stop difference.
The choices when using a Minox are limited to speed adjustments only
compared to a 35mm that has adjustable Fstops, but once you get the
hang of
it it is much simpler. You just have to remember to compensate for
the 4
stop difference by using the Minox fixed lens.
If you have a light meter check the settings that you get using this
method
against it using different film speeds and you will be surprised how
close
you come to their readings. I hope that I haven't confused you. It
is just
like learning the scales on a piano, a pain in the butt but once you
have
mastered them you can play any tune. I had to learn this as when I
started
photography in 1953 there were no light meters on cameras then.
<p>
Regards
<p>
Charlie
-
I shoot with a IIIs. I use this camera because of its size and
convenience, which is made possible by not having a light meter or
other photographic aids attached to it.
I am able to set the camera for any film and any lighting conditions
to within one stop in my head using the sunny 16 rule and EV system
as per attached. Once you know the Sunny 16 setting, all settings
fall in place. Sunny 16 is EV 15. The difference between EV 15 and
the EV # that the subject falls on is the # of stops of adjustment to
set the camera correctely.
It takes only a few minutes to memorize the method and you can use it
with any camera made. To use a light meter with a Minox defeats the
purpose in my opinion.
<p>
EV Number Type of Lighting Situation
<pre>
0 Subject under a full moon
1 Lightning with time exposure
2 Total eclipse of the moon
3 Candle lit close-ups. Fireworks(with time exposures)
4 Night home interiors(average light).
5 Night home interiors (brightly lit). School auditoriums.
6 Fairs, amusement parks. Brightly lit nightime streets.
7 Indoor sports. Stage shows. Store windows.
8 Football, baseball, ice shows at night.
9 Neon lights, spot lighted subjects.
10 Sunsets. Rainy days.
11 Overcast Days. Subjects in the shade.
12 Cloudy-Dull Days(no shadows).
13 Cloudy-Bright Days(soft shadows).
14 Bright Hazy Days(definite shadows).
15 Bright Sunny Days(Sunny 16 rule).
16 Bright daylight on sand or snow
</pre>
-
I shoot with a IIIs. I use this camera because of its size and
convenience, which is made possible by not having a light meter or
other photographic aids attached to it.
I am able to set the camera for any film and any lighting conditions
to within one stop in my head using the sunny 16 rule and EV system
as per attached. Once you know the Sunny 16 setting, all settings
fall in place. Sunny 16 is EV 15. The difference between EV 15 and
the EV # that the subject falls on is the # of stops of adjustment to
set the camera correctely.
It takes only a few minutes to memorize the method and you can use it
with any camera made. To use a light meter with a Minox defeats the
purpose in my opinion.
<p>
EV Number Type of Lighting Situation
<p>
0 Subject under a full moon
1 Lightning with time exposure
2 Total eclipse of the moon
3 Candle lit close-ups. Fireworks(with time exposures)
4 Night home interiors(average light).
5 Night home interiors (brightly lit). School auditoriums.
6 Fairs, amusement parks. Brightly lit nightime streets.
7 Indoor sports. Stage shows. Store windows.
8 Football, baseball, ice shows at night.
9 Neon lights, spot lighted subjects.
10 Sunsets. Rainy days.
11 Overcast Days. Subjects in the shade.
12 Cloudy-Dull Days(no shadows).
13 Cloudy-Bright Days(soft shadows).
14 Bright Hazy Days(definite shadows).
15 Bright Sunny Days(Sunny 16 rule).
16 Bright daylight on sand or snow
-
I just used the method suggested by you in my Minox tank. Rodinal
1:100, 6min, 68 degrees F, replenish/replace 10ml each min. and I
want you to know that my negatives came out very very good. I would
like to try Rodinal Special sometime. It will have to wait untill my
next trip to Toronto as it is not available in Nova Scotia. Thanks
for the advice.
Charlie
-
I just developed a roll of 35mm Tech Pan with Rodinal at 100:1 mixed
with water and sodium sulfite added at 56g per liter for 6 minutes at
68F and it turned out really well. I am now going to develop a roll
of Tech Pan in my Minox developing tank using the same formula. I
note that you suggest a time of 16 minutes for Rodinal Special. What
time do you think I should use. The difference between 6 minutes and
16 minutes seems very high.
Any neat way to indicate no film im Minox 811 camera ?
in Minox/Miniature
Posted
I use small Avery round stickers. They come in a package of 4
colors. I use one color for each film that I use, and put that
sticker on the film cassette, the cassette box, and the end of the
camera when I load it. This identifies what film is where at all
times. If I don't reload the camera imediately after removing a
film, then I remove the sticker from the end. A camera with no
sticker is empty. When I use a different film, then I change the
sticker on the camera to match the film.