ermal_koci

stay away from that line of fuji.

I'm telling you, invest in some interchangeable lens camera. The quality of the glass is ok, but all the rest will make you hate that damn thing! imagine scratching the lens. Or imagine how focusing that thing is! DO NOT invest on 645 fujis.

I'd definitely repair it, If I had the money. Don't trade. Hasselblads are really nice cameras. Anyway depends on the use of it. Maybe a leica would be the answer to your photographing demands, but I'd definitely keep the Hassy.

bronica ps lenses are really good. Uncoating of lenses, doesn't affect their sharpness as much as their contrast. it doesn't matter if you use a hood or not, since light will go anyway through the lens, and if uncoated, they will of course reflect it, causing unsharpness and lack of contrast. the question I'm doing my self is: Why use a 6x6 and waste a lot of everything if you're just someone that like taking pictures? instead of a bronica lens, roll film, and probably meter, get a handy cheap digital camera!!

lubitel is a really old camera. I've done my first rolls with one of these. of course, since it has a very limited lens design, the pictures will look not that sharp, with a very shallow depth of field and the edges are completely out of focus (and somehow dark). Anyway, pictures look somehow interesting and funny. Really sorry to tell you that if you were obsessed about prints and chose to use a 6x6 for that purpose, you've chosen the wrong one. lubitel cameras have more a historic value than a qualitative one. most of the labs also can develop 120 films easily, they just might charge you a little more. would be wise to get a contact sheet before doing all the printing, since 6x6 contact sheets are really understandable(because of the size of the negative).

Am I missing something here??

mamiya rb67 is really under $500?? all the cameras you guys mentioned are really under $500? We are talking about US dollars right? Is the medium format cameras market really gone that low? 'Cos if it's true, I'd really like some of you guys showing me where I can find a Mamiya for less than 500 USD!?!?

thanks!

thanks to everybody for the kind responses! Most probably is a lens missalighnment. I did all of the possible tests and ran 3 rolls doing just test pictures (my lab guy is seriously doubting about my photography skills). anyway, checked againg and again and the pictures are definitely sharper on the right side. Unfortunately none of the repairing shops were able to fix it, or even do a decent test. one of them offered me to open it and have a look inside, but i think it's better to, either find an expert to do that. or just live with that defocused left side... (all the family jump to the right side and please grandma find some flowers for the left side)

hi everyone!

 

I recently got a new fuji ga645! Not totally new, but very well kept!

the strange thing I'm experiencing with it, is that, if i focus to

infinity, the left part of the picture comes slightly defocused. I

mean, on a picture with buildings the center of the frame and some

of the near buildings look very sharp, while a building on the left

has a very slight strange defocus. At first I thought it was because

of my hand shaking, maybe, but how come that the center of the

frame, or that is the farest building is tack sharp? and even a

nearer building is very sharp, just this left one? can it be a

missalignment of lens? or maybe the film isn't flat? while on some

pictures done from close distances 0.7 to 3 metres things look good.

on another picture with infinity distance, the same problem arises.

the left side is not as sharp as the right one!? Does anyone know

what's happening? does it need and can it be repaired? thanks!

I Have the same problem with my Fuji. It's clearly a mechanism problem. and I assume in that case that it's a problem that can't be ignored, since grinding mechanism will probably stop working at some point. anyway, not being sure of that, please tell me what it was if you find a more technic answer to your question, (that is my question too...)

A really stupid guess! Tried going after frame# 1.???

hi!

Here's what i shortly think!

IMHO buy a fm3a for it's features and if you only need to do photos (cost is a little higher). Buy a f3 if you want to love a camera. For me the F3 is the best manual camera nikon ever made. No comparison F3 wins by far.

HI, here comes the regular T-MAX user!

 

That's true. If you underexpose and overdevelop you'll get contrasty shots. Anyway, keep in mind that this process on TMax will increase grain. There are some kind of developers (low life ones) that will decrease grain size (i.e Agfa for T'max) T'max 400 will give results even in 3200, but developind time raises dramatically and you'll scratch yourself looking at the photos. At some time (If developer is new) the developing will stop and there will be no more darkening, no matter how long you let it in, while with old developer, you'll get washed out black. (the white parts of negs get gray, because of silver halides depositatet in the developer itself during previous developments). >Tips 'n tricks< With really grainy negs, If you print yourself the photos manually, try putting the paper on the enlarger reversed (carefull, the paper should not have letters on the back side, or at least letters that are really transparent, otherwise you'll have "Kodak" written on the face of your loved ones ;)) By doing so, the paper itself acts as a diffuser, and grains become not so visible. Have phun.