greg_koni

The tape in the picture was taken at approx 45* from the tape at 7'. I repeated the test using this test pattern

http://www.photo.net/learn/focustest/scale45.jpg. I shot 6 frames none of which were consistent. Since the Canon Service Center is near my fire station in Irivne, CA I dropped it off this morning. They requested that I leave both my lenses (24-70 f2.8 and 70-200 f2.8)so they could calibrate the body with them. They are also going to clean my sensor. Should have it back in 5-7 working days. I actually feel naked without my camera and a little nauseated about leaving all that equipment behind. Oh well, time will tell.

I know this has been beat to death but I have searched and not found

an answer. Is there a range of serial #'s of 10d's that are more

likely to have the focus problem? I am curious because I just ran

the test on my 10D that was purchased in 1/04. The picture was

taken with a 70-200 f2.8, wide open, at 200mm, on a tripod, without

flash. Focus point was the 16" mark. Did I screw up the test?

Does this body need an adjustment from Canon?<div></div>

Just sold my 28-135 and replaced it with the 24-70 f2.8. I already had the 70-200 f2.8 non IS and bought the 24-70 to compliment it. With your intended use and the fact that you have the means to buy the 70-200 IS, I would get the 24-70 f2.8 and use the balance for a 550 EX flash. My next purchase will be either the 17-40 f4 or the 16-35. The "L" fever sure can get expensive!

Recently purchased the 24-70 f2.8. Can I use the lense hood from my

70-200 f2.8 on both lenses? It seems to fit...just trying to save

space in my backpack.

I shoot soccer which can be very fast and dynamic. Try registering the focal point to center and use SERVO focus in AV or TV mode. My best results have been with these settings. For best results avoid the basic zone.

At this point I prefer zooms to primes. The 70-200 f2.8 with a 1.4X TC serves me well with field sports. I want the 24-70 f2.8 to do the team/player portraits as well as non sporting portraits indoors and out. My original question was when I buy the 24-70, should I keep the 28-135?

I finally saved enough lunch money to buy another lense. I

currently shoot a 10D with a 28-135 IS and 70-200 f2.8L. I shoot

mostly field sports and team/player portraits. I have my eye on the

24-70 f2.8L. Do I keep the 28-135 or would it be redundant? What

is a fair price for a 28-135 IS in excellent condition worth?

Grif,

I shoot mostly soccer at the club and high school level. They play on regulation fields generally the size of a football field. With a 70-200 f2.8 and a 1.4X TC I get great field coverage from the sidelines. With the 1.4X TC you only give up 1 stop vs the 2 stops with the 2X. Not a big deal on a bright sunny spring/summer day of baseball. Could be a problem on overcast or night games if you find yourself in those situations. I also shoot my 10D at Large/Fine so even when I crop a picture they still look great.

I am fairly new to the 10D this board but the info here is great! It is my understand that the 1.6X factor of the 10D which everyone speaks of is a crop factor. Smaller sensor = smaller angle of view. It does not give you additional reach as many are led to believe. With that in mind the 550 EX would still provide the proper coverage from the lense to the subject.

Yakim,

I shoot mostly field sports but will hopefully be shooting team/player portraits and other portraits as a side business/hobby. After re reading my orignal post I guess I should have asked "Which would make a better portrait lense 17-40 f4 or 24-70 f2.8?" Eventually I would like to own all 3 lenses. I was looking for input on which lense would best compliment the 70-200 f2.8 for my immediate need as stated above. As always thanks, Greg

I currently own a 10D with a 28-135 IS, 70-200 f2.8, 1.4X TC, and a

550 EX. I shoot mostly field sports but will hopefully be shooting

team/player portraits and other portraits as a side business/hobby.

I am looking for a replacement for my 28-135 and am considering the

24-70 f2.8 or the 17-40 f4 with a 50mm 1.4/1.8. Though it costs

more I am leaning toward the 24-70 f2.8. Combined with my 70-200, I

am covered from 24-200 before the 1.4 TC. I also believe the 24-70

would make a better portrait lense. Am I on the right track?

Anyone in a similar situation with input? I welcome all comments.

Went through this about 2 months ago and settled for the 1.4X to use with my 70-200 F2.8L. I shoot outdoor field sports and the 1.4X gives me plenty of reach from the sidelines. Losing another stop comes into play when games are played on cloudy days, dusk and under lights. I shoot wide open and turn up the ISO.

Andy,

One last question...what metering mode are you using?

Andy,

Sounds like we shoot alike. I sometimes set up about 15-20 feet off one of the corners. This allows great coverage to midfield with the U13's-U17's. I guess I will stay with the center focus on Servo in AV wide open. Thanks for the tips on metering in different conditions.

 

Greg

Thanks Bert, I have tried A1 Focus and also found it to focus on everything but my intended subject. In AV with Servo focus and center focus selected, does the predictive focus track the subject from the center to the next focus point? Do you find that single shot focus will keep up the the action pace of soccer?

Using a 10D with 70-200 2.8L and a 1.4 TC with a monopod. Depending

on the situation I shoot in TV at 1000+ or AV at 4.0 and A1 Servo

focus. What would be best for keeping the action in focus...focal

point set a center or auto? I have mostly used the preset center

point but find that some of my pictures are out of focus. What are

all of you sports shooters using? Still fairly new and still trying

to find the ideal setup.

Used my 550EX with a 10D for the first time to shoot a banquet

indoors. Was suprised by the amount of red eye in the resulting

pictures. Any tips? This is my first experience using external

flash with the 10D.

Trying to capture action pictures at a High School Soccer Game under

stadium lighting. Using a 10D with a 70-200 2.8L on a monopod.

Images are underexposed or blurry. I have tried shutter priority,

wide open, increasing ISO, and exposure comp without any luck. I

have a 550 EX but left it at home because I thought it would be too

distracting to the players. Any suggestions?? Love the setup in

the daytime but it is still new and I am still playing around with

different settings.