jeffdietz
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Posts posted by jeffdietz
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Your question is one of many that will spark controversy between different camps of loyal followers. Digital vs. Film, Nikon vs. Canon, etc. Each side of the discussion will think their position is better than the other because their choice suits their needs and personal preferences.
In the end, you will have to live with your decision. Realize that new cameras come out every few months, each with their own good points and not-so-good points. Personally I'm a Canon shooter, and have been pleased with decision. If I went Nikon, I would probably be happy there as well. I think both companies make fine products, so it boils down to what will make you happy and what will tick you off every time you see/feel it.
I'm with Bob...if you have convinced yourself that Nikon is for you, for whatever reasons, then do it and live with it.
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Has anyone heard of a website, etc. where you can search for photo
subjects by location? For example, I'm doing a project on train
bridges/trestles. I've shot a couple of local train bridges, but
haven't found a good source that lists them out. There are a couple
of sites out there where train enthusiasts chat, but they really
don't focus on the type of information I need. In this internet
age, there has to be an easier way.
Similarly, what if I were a person who liked to shoot old
cemeteries, caves, or whatever. For people who are project-driven
in their photography, it seems like there should be some bulletin
board, site, or whatever that lists locations by subject. Driving
around and searching is just way too inefficient.
Thanks.
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I'm looking for a method to measure the voltage returned by my
hotshoe flash. I have a Promaster 5700 flash and have seen reports
that say it is at/under 6 volts, and other reports about it being
much higher. I'd rather not fry my Drebel. Currently I'm shooting
with an optical slave attached to my 5700, using the on-camera flash
to pop the off-camera slave. At times this is a bit cumbersome and
sometimes I don't want two flashes on my subject. I'd rather mount
the flash on the camera or use my off-shoe cord if possible.
So, does anyone have ideas on how to measure the flash return
voltage? I have a voltmeter for normal household use, but will it
record such a quick pulse?
Thank you.
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Does anyone have experience with the Delkin BurnAway? It seems like
a good deal to have a portable DVD burner for my CF cards for $250.
Are there any drawbacks? Is it reliable?
Thanks.
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I own a Cokin P filter holder, and find it works great. So far, I only have three filters that are P-sized. One is a Hi-Tech 2-stop ND Grad, and another is a Hi-Tech 2-stop ND (sorry to contradict Mary). My third filter is the Cokin polarizer, which fits in the wider slot closest to the lens. So far, the cokin polarizer works fine, but then again, I don't have any others to compare it to. I also have the Cokin A system with a handful of Cokin filters, but I got those before I started getting bigger lenses, etc. If I had it to do over again, I would have just started with the P series, but I was (more) cash-limited back then.
Many of the square filters will tell you if they fit Cokin..at least on the B&H site they do. I don't recall the exact size required for rectangular filters to fit, but it shouldn't be too hard to find out.
Good luck.
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Freedom of speech is a fine thing, and I support it and the rest of
the Constitution totally. It seems to be exceptionally prevalent in
colleges and among people of similar age. However, as a veteran, I
am taken aback by someone using our national symbol as a trash can
liner. Normally I'm not very sensitive to other people's opinions
(everyone's entitled to them), and the images of the flag on the
grass and with scissors are OK from an artistic standpoint.
However, as a trashcan liner...well...if you want to evoke emotion
with your images, you have succeeded.
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John Sidlo -- Nice shot...it just feels good.
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IR will work on a Digital Rebel. My first shots were with a Tiffen 87 which turned out to be the wrong filter for what I wanted to achieve (too dark). I returned it and am awaiting a Hoya R72, which is supposed to work better. I posted a thread on this myself. See http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Aaw7
-- Jeff
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Correction...11x14 glare-free plexiglass from Home Depot for $2.00, not 8x10.
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Personal preference - I like the punch of glossy. To me, matte seems to have an inherent softness to it. However, I sometimes go with matte to achieve certain looks.
That being said, I can't stand glare from a framed print -- it always seems to catch my eye no matter how I look at it. When I'm framing, I use glare-free acrylic. A piece of 8x10 glare free runs around $2.00 from Home Depot.
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I'm considering taking some college courses in photography, and am
looking for anyone with experience with two of the schools on my
list. -- Sinclair University (Dayton, Ohio) and Antonelli College
(Cincinnati, Ohio).
My employer will pay for college classes as long as it leads to a
degree. Dayton also has Ohio Institute of Photography and
Technology (OIP&T), but they don't have a degree program so they're
out of the picture.
Anyway, Sinclair is $65 per credit hour and seems like a general-
eduction community college with a associate-of-arts degree in
Photography. Antonelli is $325 per credit hour, and is very focused
on training people for a specific trade, offering an associate-of-
business degree in photography. My goal is not to use this as a way
to change careers, just to get more knowledge and an excuse to shoot
on someone else's nickel.
So...any does anyone out there have experience with either of these
schools?
Thanks...Jeff
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See some recent threads on creating a light tent with very little budget. It's proof that good results don't require a lot of money.
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Digital or film IR - which one to do?
in Black & White Practice
Posted
I'd like to expand my photography to include IR, but want to make sure I pick
the right medium to get the right effect. I've shot a couple of roles of
Kodak HIE with a red 25 filter, and ended up with "classic" IR shots that have
the halos which make them look a little soft. I like that look because it's
cool and different.
One question I have is - what causes the halo look? Does it have to do with
the film construction? Or, is it because the red 25 filter allows some
visible light through, and since visible and IR get focused at different
planes, I'm ending up with focused IR and out-of-focus visible light?
As for digital, I know that cameras can be altered (remove the IR blocking
filter) to make IR photography easier. My question here is - would digital IR
provide sharper images (no halo) since the sensor doesn't have the layered
construction of film? Or, would digital IR still show the halos because of
the light-focusing concept described above?
Last question - if I used a stronger IR-dedicated filter such as an 89, 87, or
87c, what effect would that have on the halo look?
Why do I care?
1. I want the look I'm looking for.
2. Cost and commitment. I'm willing to pay for either a bunch of film, some
chemicals, and a film scanner, or I'll pay to have a digital SLR altered, but
not both.
Thank you.