charles.

I dont know about this 120 vs 220 back business, but I use a super back with my 645pro quite often and it works fine.

I think I paid 18.95 or 19.95 plus tax at a local camera store for mine. More than the one at KEH, though I cant remember the exact price.

 

The strap pictured in that link is definitely the one you want, though I agree that price is kinda crazy.

Oh, and I dont want that to look like a recommendation aganst KEH, I have purchased a great deal of equipment from them with no other problems, and I will buy from them in the future.

If you order from KEH I would ask them to try out the strap on a camera. I once bought (what I thought was) the exact thing you are looking for from them, but what arrived was for pentax645... the sticker on the bag was for the correct mamiya strap. The metal connection points look the same, but the pentax strap didnt fit. I found the proper strap locally and was able to get KEH to refund me with no problem.

You can still do multiple exposures, but you have to detach the grip, set the camera to multi-exposure, reattach the grip, make your exposures and then take the grip off again to hit the switch so you can advance the film. Its a bit of a pain, but its completely possible. Removing the grip is easy, it takes just a second or two.

 

I think the price isnt too bad, though I would try to get either the leaf shutter 80 or the f1.9 version rather than the standard 2.8 version, they aren't much more expensive considering the extra flexibility they offer.

...That has a screen that will flip around 180 degrees (so you could see

yourself if framing a self portrait), and a great deal of zoom. The zoom can be

digital as well as optical, im not too concerned with picture quality...

something equivalent to a 400mm lens (or even more) on 35mm film would be

excellent.

 

I also need the camera to be able to run on AC power (no battery), and be set so

it never 'sleeps'.

 

I dont care much about megapixels or features other than those listed above, and

I dont mind if I have to buy used. Thanks for your help.

The whole film holding part rotates in the rotating holder. Its useful for landscape or architecture photos where you need to get the horizon (or some other straight line) parallel with the scanner. Its worth it maybe if absolute sharpness is necessary and you often don't have your camera aligned with the scene during exposure. Making big rotations in photoshop is not good for sharpness if you are pushing the limit of your scan (ie large prints), not only because you will have to crop out some of the scene in a rotated scan but due to the rotation's effect on the sharpness of the file.

 

So, if youre photos are straight, just get a regular glass one.

 

And yes, if you want good (i would say acceptable) results, you need to get a glass holder. It is difficult enough to get 645 flat with the stock holder (and its not even really flat if you compare with a scan from a glass holder).

For the record, I sent my body to Canon in NJ and they have quoted me 214$ including shipping.

I think you got an ok deal-- not great, but not bad. I wouldnt worry about it, enjoy your camera.

Yes it is, I read an article or blog post online about him moving over to digital printing, I cant seem to find it with google though. I remember the author saying that the prints had more contrast and saturation than the older traditional prints... I forget if they said they looked better or worse because of it.

I think all mamiya 645 cameras have a horizontal-travel shutter (my 645 pro certainly does). If this is not on all or nearly all of the other frames then it is likely not a processing problem.

I don't think the price will be the same due to the difference between film/digital (I imagine repairing a DSLR shutter is more complicated)... Also I think they have put a newer shutter into the mk2's (Im not even sure if they borrowed the 1v shutter for the original 1Ds or 1D.

Oh, and I have asked canon directly and they (understandably) refuse to give a quote without seeing the camera in person.

I have a 1v body that is experiencing shutter problems (overexposed strip on the

top of some frames), judging by previous posts here, I will need either a

shutter overhaul or a completely new shutter to replace the one currently in the

camera. What those posts don't state is how much this is going to cost me...

people have said from 'around a hundred' to 'something like three hundred'

dollars on this and other sites. If someone could give a more specific answer I

would be much obliged.

I have the older C version of this lens and it is great-- except for the barrel distortion... does the N version show much distortion?

Are your lenses set to the M mode? When you say the focusing circle gets darker it sounds to me like the lens is stopped down while you are focusing. Try switching it to A and see if that helps.

To use a cable release you either need to get an adapter (I think I got mine for about 25$ on ebay) that plugs into the 4-pin socket behind the little sliding door on the left side of the body (near the mirror lock up dial), or you can get the grip that has a cable socket right in the shutter release button. <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/MAMIYA-645-PRO-POWER-DRIVE-GRIP-WG401-IN-BOX_W0QQitemZ200138551902QQihZ010QQcategoryZ3352QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem">here</a> is one ofthe grips on ebay right now (I'm not/don't know the seller). I would go for the grip as it also auto-winds the film and makes eye-level hand-holding more comfortable. Theres also a smaller/less sophisticated grip that doesn't have the cable release socket so watch out for that.

Thats right, theres no lever on the body for preview. You will have to switch the lens from A to M if you want to do this, sorry.

I would try the camera shop first, though I doubt you will get much for it, maybe 35$ if you are lucky and it truly is in great shape. I think you may not get any bids for it if you put it on ebay, sorry.

Have you tried fresh batteries? Tried firing the shutter with the magazine off the camera (sounds like you have but give it a try if you havent)? Sorry I don't have more ideas.

Hello,

 

I recently purchased, 2nd hand, a Manfrotto strap that I thought would mate to

my bogen 3251 tripod (also bought used). It seems I didnt consider where this

strap would attach (hah!). There is a clip on the strap which I assume would

attach to a ring or something somewhere near the column of my tripod, but theres

no such ring available... But, there are threaded holes (perhaps 1/2 or 5/8 inch

wide) on the top of each leg where, I hope, something might screw in that might

allow me to attach my strap.

 

Is there anyone out there that knows what part I am missing, or is my tripod too

old for this strap (the strap is newer while my tripod may be from the 80's)?

Was it not included with my tripod when I bought it, or the strap? Is there a

part number or specific name for this part so I can find & purchase it? Thanks

in advance.

I believe the only difference between the Pro and ProTL models is TTL flash capability, so if you arent using flash go for the Pro. The price difference for used bodies isnt big enough to justify getting the older Super or less capable E models in my opinion.

I have a 645Pro (not TL), the 70 Leaf shutter'd lens and two flash units I'd

like to sync at the same time (sunpak 383 & 120J). My question is pretty

simple: can I trigger one flash from the hot shoe (or the body's sync terminal)

in addition to the flash triggered from the lens's sync terminal?

 

I expect to be shooting at 1/250th and 1/500th and I'm guessing the body

terminal/shoe flash will only sync up to 1/60th but would love for someone to

tell me that's wrong so I don't have to buy something to get both units to

trigger from the one terminal on the lens. I'm not on any sort of schedule, but

I am on a budget, so I would rather not have to do a test roll if possible.

 

If I do have to buy something, whats the cheapest reliable method to get the two

to sync? I'm working outdoors with people at close range (<12 ft), will an

optical slave unit work from just the reflected light off of a persons body?

and are they reliable at 1/500th?

 

Thanks in advance.

Ive never seen a mamiya 135 back in person, but from all the pictures ive seen online, it looks like the back just takes a regular 24x36 frame, and the panoramic adapter is just a mask to make it 18x36 or so...

 

Hopefully someone who has actually handled one of these backs will speak up. Make sure you ask questions before you buy/bid.

I like your definition Ellis, but I don't think it explains much.

 

I would say that photography is about what is seen and, through that, what is not seen. Sometimes the photographer has a lot to do with this, but often times not. Most people seem to have big egos relating to what they have "created" though.

 

Conversely, it would be difficult to have any given photograph without the photographer.