larry davis

Does the attached photo of a Super Takumar f/1.4 50mm lens show fungus?

Whatever it is seems to be on an element toward the rear of the lens - on the

inside.

 

If it is fungus, is there any hope for the lens?

 

Thanks.<div></div>

I've had good luck with Micro-Tools (http://www.micro-tools.com/store/home.aspx) if you know the screw size. Trouble with Micro-Tools is that they have a minimum shipping charge - but it's a good excuse to buy some other small things you might need; cross point (as opposed to Phillips) screwdriver, small pliers, adhesive, lubricant, etc.

Thanks for the help, guys. The websites you gave, John, look to be the perfect answer.

 

Larry

I have an Aires IIIA (c. 1956) with a Seikosha MXL shutter.

 

One of the aperture blades seems to be stuck in the open position. When

decreasing the shutter opening setting from max (f/2.8), there appears an open

off-center slot that gets narrower and narrower with increasing f/stop.

Should this clear up with cleaning or expercise (exercise hasn't worked yet)

or is it more likely that the blade attachment to the shutter mechanism needs

repair? The shutter operation speeds seems to be ok at all speeds.

 

Thanks,

 

Larry

The screw is definitely right handed. The service manual calls out two of the same screw (A342), and the other one I was able to remove was right handed.

This subject has probably been beat to death before, but ...

I am trying to remove the top of a Japanese camera (ME Super Spotmatic) and

got down to the last screw (of course) and cannot budge it. It is a 1.6 mm

screw with a head of about 2 mm diameter. I have searched here and elsewhere

and have made sure to get and use a cross-point driver (rather than a

Phillips), tried penetrating oil, acetone, and lighter fluid. I then tried

heating the head with a soldering iron. Nothing has worked. In the process,

of course, I have boogered up the slot some, although the cross-point driver

will still engage. Is there an "easy-out" this small? The head is elongated,

so there would theoretically be room to get a few threadeds of a left-handed

easy-out or similar tool engaged. I don't want to drill out the entire screw -

especially since the head is still there. Any ideas?? Thanks, Larry

Thanks, Gentlemen. As usual, you have been of invaluable help.

I picked up a Cosina 80-200mm lens (f/4.5-5.6, MC Macro), but I can't match

the bayonet mount. Were these lenses manufactured in numerous mounts? How

would I go about identifying the mount - i.e. what camera(s)it fits -

unfortunately none I have (not Pentax ME Super, Nikon FG, Ricoh KR-30sp

Program, or Canon AE-1 Program).

 

The lens has the typical three bayonet flanges of increasing widths. These

are about 15mm, 18mm and 20mm in width.

 

If it means anything to any of you, the lens S/N is OM92413117.

 

Thanks in advance. You folks never let me down.<div></div>

Thanks for the quick feedback, all. I now know that the shutter on my Contaflex needs attention - that it is stuck. John Goodman was good enough to share some shutter cleaning tips, which I'll try.

 

Larry

I just picked up a Contaflex I SLR, but I'm not sure the shutter is working.

When I wind the film advance, the diaphragm opens and the mirror drops into

place and I can see through the viewfinder fine. But when I press the release

the diaphragm closes and the mirror pops up, but the shutter does not seem to

work - like it wasn't cocked in the winding. If I take the back off and press

the release, I see no light through the lens - at any speed. Then I got to

thinking, does this camera require film to be loaded to cock the shutter -

like a Voigtlander Vito B?

 

I haven't been able to find a (free) manual online, so if anyone knows where,

I'd appreciate it.

 

Larry

Let me add my own question in this discussion. What about when the cameas are on display? Also my display cabinet (newly moved) receives a few minutes of direct evening sun. Should the apertures be open wide or small, or am I just asking for trouble?

My Argus AF has focus stops.

These Minoltas were famous, apparently, for poor soldering. It may well be that a bad solder joint came loose. This situation was made worse by the PZ640 murcury batteries if left in the camera for long periods - electrical contacts, especially near the battery, became corroded. I have a Hi-Matic E that suffered this. The corrosion, if it hasn't broken the electrical connection, is very brittle, so yours could have come loose in your use of the camera. I don't know about the F, but the bottom of the E comes off easily with two screws, and you can check out the main battery wires. On mine, the black wire was heavily corroded and the red was not.

Thanks, John.

 

How would the 85C perform with black & white film? Would it work like a light orange, darkening skiessomewhat.

I just picked up a 30mm push-on filter adapter ring for an Agfa

Isolette II. It came with a filter, but I'm not sure what it is.

Engraving on the filter edge says:

 

"SERIES V KODAK DAYLIGHT FILTER FOR TYPE F FILM"

 

The filter is a light amber color.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

I just got my Instamatic Reflex running using a substitute battery and some nickels. The Reflex required 2 of the big murcury PX825 1.5V batteries. They mount in the little tray that pulls out of the bottom of the camera. Get a lithium CR2032 battery which is 3V. Place the 2032 in the front position in the battery tray (by front I mean the portion that inserts into the battery compartment first). Place 2 nickels on top of the 2032 and put 3 nickels in the rear position. Works fine.

 

Larry Davis

Rose, I also have both of thes nice cameras - my only two Zeiss Ikons. Actually I have Two Contina IIa's - one needs a new front element for the Novicar lens. So if anyone has one, let me know.

 

I just picked up my Contaflex I. If I ran a roll through it, the film would be blank, too. I can wind and fire but that seems to only raise the mirror. If I take the back off and hold the camera up to light, when the release is pressed, no light is seen coming through the lens. My mirror is also quite dirty, but you can't get at the mirror in a normal SLR fashion as the lens isn't removable. The only thing that seems wrong with the adjustmenst is that the MXV lever only moves between the V (self timer) and sort of to the X setting, although it feels like it never really engages the X position. Don't know if that has anything to do with the leaf shutter not working. Oh, also the aperture ring only adjusts down to about f/8, even though the ring rotates further.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

I have a Nikon N8008s and an SB-26 Speedlight. I want to take some

shots with the flash off-camera, the N8008s doesn't have a flash

cord port - one has to buy a special $50 hot shoe cord. So I was

wondering if I can use my old Pentax Spotmatic with the SB-26 in

manual using a standard PC cord, attaching to the PC port on the SB-

26 (?). Thanks.

For about two years I have been using Skidmore's Leather Cream for camera cases, leatherette, straps, bellows, etc, with good results. It's made from natural oils and beeswax. You might try their site www.skidmores.com.

 

Larry

I couldn't resist posting this one. This was the first of my own photos that came to mind on reading about this upcoming contest, which I think is a fun idea. I personally like the idea of shots taken with a 50's camera of something from or about the 50's. Since this shot was of the 50's but not by a 50's camera, I couldn't enter it, anyway. But any guy that was at least 6 years old in the 50's knows what this is and remembers when they were new.<div></div>

I'd love to adopt the Duaflex II.

Mihai, I have tried several times to vote, but the photo.net system can't seem to send me your e-mail address. Is there another way to vote?? This was great fun - lots of wonderful photos - hard to narrow them down to four.

Nice shot, Mark. Now I can't wait to try out my "Markfinder" that has been waiting for a year or so since I got it.

Nice shot, Mark. Now I can't wait to try out my "Markfinder" that has been waiting for a year or so since I got it.

I'll throw in my two favorites: the Voigtlander Vito B - sleek, smooth and elegant; and the Kodak Retina IIa --- classic folding beauty, sharp, crisp.